I'm getting a cam, ported heads, ported intake, 2800 stall converter and underdrive pulley installed on my SRT8. I have the Magnaflow high-flow cats. Are long-tubes worth it? Even the vendor I bought my parts from said about 10 HP peak. I've heard long-tubes give you more bottom end torque though. Also for those of you with long-tubes/high-flow cats, I assume that you have to get extensions for the O2 sensors to hook up or just leave one set of O2 sensors disconnected based on the position of the high-flow cats with headers. Is this true. What other issues might I have with long-tubes. I've heard they sit lower and throw codes as well. Make an argument pro or con.
hey buddy, I had them for a while. Then I got red flagged. That's the biggest con I can tell you. I went back to stock headers and I could feel the car suffered. Now that I am redoing my motor I got an other set. I would say get them but wait for the new ones.
Yeah, doesn't Kook's have some new ones that just came out for SRT8s? Different size primaries or something like that. I wonder what size would be best for me.
You know, if Kook's has some new type of header out now I should be able to buy the old style for cheap! I just have to wait for someone to worry about the extra 3 HP they are missing out on
I'm struggling with the same question. Almost seems like a huge waste to have the heads off and not do headers if they'll help.
I haven't seen any evidence (dyno and track numbers) that overwhelmingly supports long-tubes on our cars. You've already go shortie headers, so there won't be much more gain from long-tubes. Now if you had an exhaust manifold like the 5.7s, it would make more sense (and gains).
I struggled over this same issue and decided to pull the trigger only because I wanted the absolute best set up and would have felt guilty if the car didn't run the way I expected. I'd always be thinking in the back of my mind if I should have did the longtubes or not. Having said that, I don't think alot of what we do is worth it. Think about it. Especially when you see what some guys spend on aesthetic mods lol...I've seen more than my share of ugly rims out there. I don't think that they're actually worth it...but if you want the heads to flow their best...well you know the answer.
Good answer. I'll probably only end up getting headers for the reason you did, don't want to wonder later if they would have helped if I didn't get them.
FWIW: I can get a decent deal on Dynatech headers for anyone. With, or with out cats and midpipes. PM for price (less than $1500 though)
Today I received a set of Kooks #6905 Step stepped headers and catted midpipes. 1 7/8 stepped to 2" longtubes, T-304 SS headers. Took to get jet 2000F coated. The coater agrees they are a real work of art! Still waiting for my SRT8 Challenger to install them matched to a 2 3/4" Corsa. I intend to do a 500 mile break-in beofore putting on the headers
IF I had to do this all over again..... Given Kooks LT gives off codes I would have gone to Mopar LT. But that is just an irritant as now I do not have the codes because my custom tune has the rear o2 sensor off. Also if I were to install the LT I would ensure that it is coated.... as those LT sure put off ALOT of heat.... so now the engine compartment is even hotter.... I still kinda wish I knew how much HP I would be at if I kept the stock headers on.
LOL, that's nothing. My stock Gen 3 Viper had a crossover pipe that ran directly beneath the seats. Bought the car in April and by September the wife hade refused to ride in the car due to the temps. Had Belanger headers installed with the crossover deleted and the interior temp dropped by >30 degrees. Seriously, 505 cubes of motor exhaust, travelling under your seat is like sitting on a chimney, lol!
