Forging bottom end

I'll only comment on the balancing. IT IS 100% NEEDED!!!. You want big RWHP numbers, but you don't want to spend 300-400 bucks to safe guard your motor and get the most efficiency out of it...........come on. :doh: :blink:

 

AND...he's a better writer than I am! :yawn:

 

I agree with you, but to forge for cheap I was thinking that if you left the block and crank in the car you could just swap out rods and pistons. I know its not ideal, but that's the cheapest way I can think of doing it.

 

Cheap is correct Adam, but in the long run, being Cheap is going to cost you more.

 

You will have no choice but to pull the motor bud. First off, the pan bolts are locktited in. And most likely, you'll break at least one. You'll have to take the motor mounts loose to remove the pan anyhow. Then I really honestly don't feel you could even properly torque the rods in place, maybe??, but I don't think so. Also assuming the bore is correct, lotta luck there. I can tell you mine was perfect across the board. But I think it was CMJ John that said he saw as much as .007" difference in bores. I kinda find that hard to believe. After all, this is a mass produced motor.

You are also going to want to clean everything. And doing that with the crack in place, not optimum. Pulling these motors is a piece of cake. If your gonna do it, do it 100% and don't try to short cut it. It doesn't cost all that much more money up front. It only cost big the second time around.

 

http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=9583

Here is a thread I just wrote up for an example Guys I know the numbers look high in spots But I like to prepare for worst case scenarios

Oh and Balancing is a total requirement for a Built Motor if you want it to survive more then a few months

 

I'd never do my own motor that way. But I thought Jason was looking for cheapest way to meet his goals. I know good ain't cheap and cheap ain't good. Plus, I'm going to build my own motor on a stand in the garage. I hate working on bottom ends while still in the frame.

 

I have a Poster on the wall here in the shop it reads
"we do 3 types of work here"

Good
Cheap
Fast

You can request only 2 of the three
Good and fast wont be cheap
Good and cheap wont be fast
fast and cheap wont be good

Take your Pick

 

Momo, don't do it unless you are completely prepared... With the boost levels you are running now as long as it is well tuned you will have no problems getting many many years out of that motor.

Now if you are looking to increase displacement first you have to ask yourself "well why am I doing this?" If you can not answer that then don't

If you are looking for more power, try out other mods like a new cam, maybe a new set of heads and some intake love.

What it really boils down to is, that alot of people go in and build a great motor, with little understanding of where they want to be and how they are going there. If you simply build the motor rarely will you find a magical huge amount of power.

Let me use my last mustang for example. 99 4.6 with 50k on the clock dynoed about 235 RWHP. I purchased a modmax 5.0 stroker with the .020 over bore, when it was all said and done I made get this 247 rwhp this is before heads and cams. Mind you that was on a PI motor, and the heads were alot more restrictive than what I ended up with. 4k worth of work and parts and all I got was 12 more hp.

Don't worry about bottom end until you have a need to replace it.

/end of my post

 

Balancing the crank to the weight of the pistons and rods is a major requirement. A built short block should definately already have this done. The 392 stroker kit I spoke of earlier (post #35) it is not balanced, so it must be before used.

 

Quality parts, quality assembly & B&B = good HP and reliability = will not be cheap, can be somewhat reasonable.

Anyone just putting in piston & rods without B&B will be on borrowed time. I would do at least a .005 cleanup bore and pistons to match. Cylinders can be out of round from the factory, let alone after thousands of miles.