Forging bottom end

That's because your question isn't specific enough. Its like you're asking, "How much is a car?"

So to answer your question. A 6.1L forged shortblock with Eagle rods and Diamond pistons dished to lower compression for boost is $3700.

 

Go to my mod list for parts listing.

2 years ago when building a 6.1L wasn't an option, CMW took on the challenge. They only forged the internals and an overboar because stroking the crank was too risky at the time and I needed my car back for SEMA.

I paid around 7K. That included ALL parts and labor and reworking of the heads, intake, blower, and a newly ground cam with OEM specs with FI in mind. I am pretty sure that price has come down considerably as the parts were not available back then. lol

 

That's the kind of info needed. I don't know what the differences are between Eagle rod or the next guy (not that I know that either). Is lower compression ideal...and is it based on your goals? Are the differences performance driven or longevity (quality)? All I know is the stock rods and pistons suck to handle any boost that will give significant gains.

I've got to ask Ron....who did the install? Does CMW do installs?

 

I can not answer that. You would have to discuss with Scott and Bob.

Someone else did my install.


Keep in mind Rick, the other mentioned rotating assembly's for 3K seem to be a great price, but they that price for a reason. The more HP you anticipate the more you will need to upgrade in quality of parts. Most items have a HP rating. Make sure you know what kind of numbers you want out of your engine and budget accordingly.

 

What I said somewhere else...

You can get a complete forged 392 stroker kit for less than $2,700 (PPP). That includes the complete low end internals..... bearings, rings, forged H-Beam rods, forged pistons, AND a forged 4140 stroker crank. Everything except the block.
That IS at 10.3:1 compression but I think 9.5:1 is available. There is really very little block work to be done for a 392 stroker and you are already tearing it down to the block even if you want to just install forged 6.1 internals and use stock crank.

I would definatelly send my block out for a "blueprint" check and smooth grinding of all casting flashes, especially if I was going thru the bucks to get forged iternals.
If you are going to do it....do it right.

All the grinding work you can do your self, might as well grind away enough room for a stroker while your at it.
If you have a set of calipers.... you can do most of the checking and matching for the blueprint.

 

I can tell you this I have used a ton of different rings but Total Seal have been the most trouble free of the bunch!

 

:friends:



BTW, for a forged bottom end, all you need is some rods, pistons, rings ... way less expensive than those number quoted earlier on page 2 ... I should get a package together, hmm.

 

Please do! The Navy STILL doesn't pay that good. So, I need to make the most out of the chunk of my reenlistment bonus my wife has "allowed" me to use for mods!! :friends:

 

t trim plus a forged bottem end = butt load of power

 

If this is the case please let me know the price and whos products you are using

 

Yes, Yes and Yes!!!

 

I am also interested in the forged bottom end pricing and product list.

 

Not trying to start an argument, but you items needed is basic. If one is only wanting to forge the bottom with out any huge power adder, then yes, that is all you need.

If someone is going for F/I with high boost, the bottom end will need more than what you listed.

Balancing and blueprinting of the crank and block is another good idea when going for large HP numbers. This type of modification will have an ala cart scenario and will begin to become expensive for those on a tight budget.

 

Alright Bud. Don't drop the ball here and become just what you're talking about above...

It's going to be a large, multi-part/thread deal. You (and Momo) are eventually going to know most of it after going through the process you're doing. For example, high compression/low compression and to stroke or not. Do you want it to spin fast or slow, hp vs torque. You can go one way or the other and it depends on your application and goals. I think there are a few different basic rod designs and piston designs and it depends on your application and goals. ... There are some general cutoffs on hp and torque where you need to go the next step up with different and/or additional components, etc. Maybe you could lay down a thread for each component area as you learn about them? They all got general price ranges within a grand or two of each other. This would give everybody the answer to your question. It's not quite as simple as saying I want this much rwhp, what do I need and what does it cost. There are a lot of ways to get there and you end up with different characteristics depending on the route your took. It's like buying a high end component stereo. We all learned about the 3 different kinds of S/Cs. That was a good chapter 1.

 

Such as? I can't think of anything else besides an ATI dampner and ARP bolts all around. Of course balancing and blueprinting are great, but not 100% necessary.

 

Wrist pins, fasteners, upgrade oil squirters, sleeves (as an option), blah blah blah...

And no B/B is not a necessity (never said it was), but if one is going high boost or spray, it is HIGHLY recommended.

 

OK....so maybe a phone call is needed! I know guys like John, Ralph, and Adam already know this stuff. I guess I just need to talk to all the vendors who have options out there and do the research on the parts and MY application goals. However much I'm involved in the process I'll write it up because I KNOW with all the blowers "planned" here in the near future there will be a tidal wave of people wanting to forge. Or at least those on a budget!

 

:clap::clap::clap:

You could have Momo write it up 'cause he's going to make you explain it all to him anyway .