Not sure if this is the right area to post this but here is the stock box testing. Stock air box dyno testing, big surprise. First listing the order of testing: First was pass with stock box and filter installed 328 WHP Second was stock box with filter removed 340 WHP Third was the snorkel taken off 305 WHP Removed the whole box and just ran the rubber inlet 344 WHP Now you will see that we ran the snorkel off 2 times to comfirm that it lost that much. It dyoned again at 304 WHP with the snorkel off and everything still on the car. This amazed everyone at the dyno, just removing the stock box snorkel killed 30 + WHP on 4 different passes. So we moved onto the next step to see what max is we could get out of the stock box, only got to 360 WHP (PM me if you want the dyno chart). This run was 21 psi with no filter in the box. With the filter in the box we couldn't get over 345 WHP (didn't post that dyno up but I can if need be). The filter is the restriction in the stock box. Base testing for the stock air box testing was 18.5 psi, no knock and repeated pulls to make sure the consistancy was there. We repeated the test 2 times and took the second set of test results because there was only a 2% variance between the frist 6 passes and the next 4 passes on the dyno. Pretty much sums up that a snorkel or some sort of "air catch/heat shield" is needed to keep the heat soak off the intake. If you want an intake that works, it has better have a way to keep the hot air off the filter/intake tube.
Thanks for sharing the results of the air box testing. Seems to be good information on real time testing. However, I would suggest you use caution on your threads please. The line has been stretched to its limits on this one, especially since most know where the testing came from. Thank you.
Will do, changed my name and pulled any refference from me in the threads first post. I want to offer up the info that I have, tell me the way you want it and I will make sure I deliver it that way for now on. Thanks, not trying to test any lines, just wanting to get the info out there for your members to share or pull from when they start looking at parts for there car. I don't care who's parts they are either, I just want to share the info. Look around at the options that you have. The Mopar or AEM is one option that I think would work well. K&N drop in might work equally as well but it looks like the stock box maxes out around 360 WHP with out a filter (additional testing that I have but don't want to make any problems for the admin or myself). Just look around at the vendors that offer a "closed in design" or some sort of way to redirect the heat away from the intake or filter. Admin, let me know if this is going to far. Thanks.
It really doesn't matter if you run the closed box or without a box. I am running the BWoody intake and I am only noticing like 70 degree inlet temps and I feel it allows the turbo to pull in a lot more air the the stock box ever could. If you want to keep the hot air off the intake just get a piece of sheet metal, bolt it to the stock box mounting spots and angle it along the engine. That should cut your temp numbers down a lot. But for me 70 degree's is not high at all especially when the engine temp is running 200 degrees