Stock FMIC vs Direct Fit Intercooler (pics inside)

As some recall there was a thread in this section concerning intercoolers for the SRT-4. When the direct fit intercooler was brought up, a member on here said its not worth it that the stocker is better and people tend to overlook the stock intercooler. Well I can say I don't agree to that statement. Honestly you should believe people who have actually tried parts instead of he said she said. I ran the stock intercooler, I ran the Exhaust Depot Direct Fit Intercooler, I'm currently running the Exhaust Depot Beast BFMIC. So I've tried all 3 types (stock, DF, BFMIC) of intercoolers made for the SRT-4 and I've had my Dyno experience with the stock intercooler and the direct fit intercooler as well as runs on the street with both.

I sold the ED Direct Fit I used to have on my car to a friend and installed it on his car about a week or two ago. Here are comparison pictures:

 

Direct Fit being the bigger intercooler and the polished one in the picture.

As you can see the core is thicker, the welds are much better then stock.

My experience with the stock intercooler is after a hard 1st run the intercooler heats soaks quickly. This is for certain based on experience.

I ran a friend of mine when I had the stock intercooler and he had the ED Super Beast BFMIC, mod for mod we had the same mods minus me being on the stock intercooler. First run, it was pretty much a back and fourth even between switching gears. Second run right after, he put 2 cars immediately and my car felt slower and slower as the stock intercooler heatsoaked.

Went to the dyno on the stock intercooler, first run I put down 255whp/311tq on a mapclamp tune and minor bolt-ons. Second run, the intercooler heatsoaked after the first run and my numbers dropped drastically to 240whp/289tq. Was not even worth doing a third run.

The stock intercooler is not effecient for the power these cars produce. With the Direct Fit intercooler I got lower temps as well as a little more hp.

Those who wish to keep their crash bar but want an aftermarket intercooler then the Direct Fit is the way to go over the stock intercooler.

 

I've never been a fan of DF intercoolers....I like 'em big....intercoolers, I mean. Get your mind out of the gutter.....

 

please define "a little more hp". since you're not giving numbers it implies that you didn't see very much change.

i too ran the stock, then a direct fit, then a big ic. i saw about a 3hp increase with a direct fit. that's a waste of $400 imo. showing pictures and doing a highway pull is not quite a good measure of the efficiency of an intercooler. he might have gotten two cars on you because he's a better driver. maybe you hit a puddle and lost traction. maybe he had better tires or yours were bald. we don't know. that's why ic shoot outs are done under specific controlled settings rather than two buddies doing top end pulls on a highway with a million different variables affecting the outcome.

i still say a direct fit is a waste of time. i ran one, i wasted money on one, i know the gains from them. but again remember, that's just my opinion. if you think that spending $400 for 3hp is worth it then go for it. it doesn't affect me. but you're not going to change my opinion by showing me pictures of cores of a ic that i already ran and got rid of for a reason.......

 

I wouldn't say the DF is a waste of time it just depend on what type of Driving your doing, if you doing just stright drag then go big,
if you doing every thing else (autoX, RR, Rally, RallyX) then go DF.

 

Typical, non-logical argument on your behalf. Figured you would chime in eventually. You need to come up with facts not assumptions.

At the time my tires were about 2-3 months old while his were about a year old. Driver mod has nothing to do with the outcome of the 2nd race, it's called heatsoak. No puddle, no other weather changes. It was at night and the road was dry. This was a mod for mod outcome. Maybe you need to read better my post which also states the heatsoak was seen at the dyno after the 1st run.

My pictures of cores were to prove your logic is dumb and stupid between a stock intercooler and a direct fit. You even noticed a little difference as well as some gain. Were not talking price here so you can throw that out the window. Were talking stock vs direct fit. Read the title and re-read my posts.

Point is everytime someone is interested in something you tell them, "No, waste of time" and comments such as. How about more logical answers as to why and some proof. Here's my proof... where's yours?

BTW, there's not a million different variables that will change the adverse effects of things. Exaggerating a bit much?

Keep your opinion, as that's all it is. Waiting on facts that show the stock intercooler is better then the direct fit.

I'm fully aware of what a BFMIC can do and how it CAN be better depending on what setup your running BUT you have to understand that not everyone wants to remove their crash bar :happy:.

 

Logic in an argument? Man do you have some nerve. lol

The way I see it is if a direct fit can flow more than your turbo can as well as give you a decent temp drop you are doing ok. At that point you are splitting hairs as to which is better as far as the stock, super stock, e1 and s3 turbos go. Most direct fits can flow about 600 cfm's and these turbos flow between 390 and 500 respectively. As far as a big turbo goes a bfmic is pretty much a given.

 

:fear:

Thank you for an informative response :thumb:

 

shhhhhh don't tell anyone. :towel:

 

here is my experiance from stock vs anything. bone stock i went 13.9 @ 104. first mod i did was a bfmic went to the track ran 13.9 @ 104.. after that i installed a map clamp, ptp 75 psi fpr mod, solid mounts, open dp. and slicks. ran 12.9 @ 108. put the stocker back on, same day at track. ran 12.9@ 109. next i installed my cooling mist meth kit, along with a super afc. spiking 17 holding 13 i ran 12.6 @ 112 sock i/c i went 12.8 @ 110. ( same day) put back on my bfmic returned to the 12.6 range. so all in all my best gain has been 2 tenths of a second. which is a pretty good amount from just a i/c upgrade.

 

only a gain of 3hp can be based on the possible tempature change from your first run and your second run(ambient air tempature and actual motor tempature)

what PSI was your dyno run at? mods can actually adjust the volumetric efficency of the intercooler. if an intake was added, more air would be added, increasing air entering and possibly faster heat soak on a dyno. (not enough air entering the front of the car) and a stock exhaust could have increased back pressure causing more turbo heat build up also heating the air coming in to the turbo in turn incrasing heat soak.

so the only way you could have a valid "3hp" increase is if you had you car on the dyno, swapped intercoolers, then ran it a second time. :grin:

If you have that information, i would love to see the write up. :thumb2:

 

Don't mean to ressurect an old thread, but its better than starting a new one... I have a chance to get a ED direct fit for $275. Its in great shape and has the stealth option. I might even be able to get the price lower for that matter. I have 3'' 02 housing, 3'' MPX exhaust, Injen intake, Stage 1. Stock boost levels. Would the direct fit help keep charge temps down on the cold side? Is it worth it? Or would putting $275 towards a meth injection kit be better?

 

it depends on what you wanna do with the car. if you want something simple the do the IC if you want to just keep adding more mods then do the Meth.

 

Good point. I am not really sure where I want to go with the car. I recently paid the car off. And to brag a little I did the 3 year loan in a little under 1 and a half years. I know mods can lead to headaches, problems and taking up a lot of time. I would love to go big turbo, which will eventually happen just not anytime soon due to how expensive it is for all the supporting mods. Clutch, bigger intercooler, stronger axles, tuning, injectors, fuel setup etc etc etc. Its all just a matter of time. Would like to shoot for 400whp.

I know for a fact I will never get rid of this car. N3on 4 lyfe. lol

 

well lets help you figure it out.

are you using it as a daily or weekend car.

next what type of driving do you do or wanna do.
street, drag, autoX/roadracing

next do you like complex stuff or just want something simple with reliable power.

would you be happy if you made less then 400hp, say 340 as random num. or is 400 your goal.

 

I know for a fact I will never get rid of this car. N3on 4 lyfe. lol[/QUOTE]

Couldn't have said it better.:rock:

 

Daily driver. And once I think about it 350 sounds good. Easiest would probably be Stage 3 correct? I would like to get into roadracing/auto-X. I don't do too much drag racing since it is a FWD car. I do a couple highway pulls once in a while on my way to and from work. Reliable power. As you see my dyno graph. My car puts out 264/280 tq. It pulls pretty good but I would like for it to pull a bit harder.

Dodges have bad resale value, so why sell when you can pay it off and be happy!?

 

I would like to know what having a big front vs stocker or direct fit has to do with auto cross vs. drag race? Seeing as I have done both I think some explanation would be needed.

Ill also have previously ran a cca big fmic which according to the the FMIC shootout on SRTForums, was a pretty decent bang for the buck. But I noticed a little boost drop and the but dyno didnt really notice anything that different. I did actually dyno the car with a stage 2 wastgate and a turbo back exhaust and got 275/327. I sold the CCA to dsphagia whom I assume still runs it.

But having said all that, I read all I could up on the subject and finally settled on a 4'' core BFMIC. Whith way more boltons checked off the list this time around I will give you another number here after the RSW dyno day.

 

with auto crossing i would think a direct fit would get heat socked vs. a bfmic i know with a bfmic my cold side is always cold even when i beat on it and come to a really quick stop

 

You have a crashbar I take it Chris?