Assumptions: (1) Car will have a LSD and 1000hp half shafts prior to install, and a CMR tune after install. (2) No other big purchases will be made for quite some time (years). (3) No Nitrous as I don't intend on hitting a drag strip too often. (4) Price around $8000-$10000. (5) I'll be purchasing sometime after November. If you were only going to do one big power adder package what would it be?
Blower is probably your best power adder for the buck...426 stroker would be my route with heads & cam....and a good tune of course........Local guy that bought the heads I had on my former SRT8 dynoed 513RWHP on a Mustang brand dyno which usually gives lower readings than the more common Dyno Jet brand dyno. He has the PPP heads, Kooks headers, catbacks, AFE CAI, 90mm TB, HHP cam and tune by Josh at HHP.........he could get close to 600 if he stroked it.. BTW...what poll?....ooops..you put it in while I was typing..
The H/C/I option seems to be the best bet if you are going to be satisfied with the power output. If thats not going to be enough i'd save some money up and build the motor then add some FI. Considering your goals and constraints the 392/426 doesn't seem to be the best option.
426, I love my supercharger, and its the most bang for your buck, but there is nothing more fun then a stroked big block.
A built 392/426 will be much more reliable and have power. Blowers make more power but I don't trust the powdered rods in our motors. They won't bend they will break apart in chunks. Plus in a few years or when ever you're ready you'll have a motor that can handle more boost AND take advantage of it. .02
I chose the 426 option. Why, because a S/Cer is great, but on low boost is not worth the cost. IMO. Now, if you were to upgrade the internals to forged, and lower the compression, and add a blower (Twin Screw), you could up the boost and get major power. Rick, for your driving habits and road coarse, the Stroker would be the best.
Wouldnt a Twin Screw big good for the ricker cause of the "instant power".... and would a twin screw not be a lot less of a hassle for him installation and time wise vs a whole new 426? (just thinking out loud...dont KNOW that it is in fact easier or less of a hassle).... only thing about the TS/SC is....can the transmission handle the abuse from it on something like a road racing course?
I've got my eye on a 426 H/C/I combo package that would only make sense if it pans out. I'll probably see more gains and safety going this route as opposed to a bolt on twin screw with a stock bottom end.
Money wise....if this was a poll for a gift I want the 392, and I would order it with low compression so I could twin-screw boost the hell out of it. Hmmmm, sounds erotic. I would rather have the forged bottom end and then spend the bucks on top end. I think the 426 has too thin of a wall to be reliable especially with a lot of boost.
Oh...you know my only MUST in the whole process is to own you, Drew, Luis, and Ryan in the straights! I could own all of you in the twisties driving my Tacoma....that is a given! I know the East County Clique will forge, up the boost, add N2O, and all sorts of other stuff to make the straights an impossible feat to beat...but who cares...it's the straights (gay).
That is a hard choice. You know I am dedicated to the 426 mainly because of the old school number. I would still prefer to go 392 H/C/I twin screw high boost. However, the ability to run low boost on the street. I think my 392 will make a tad more HP than a 426 with H/C/I only.
426 then twin screw... if not, then just the twin! Whatever you do, as I'm sure you will, make sure everything is strong enough inside to handle the extra power.
