Oh sorry, it was your week on the bottom, so it (his appendage) is probably not very clean is it? Off to the Botanical Gardens...have to humor the working person in the family! I did miss you!
Thanks Jake, hope you can stop by at the end of the month...we are trying to coordinate so Bill and Alex can be here.
Well, I got it together...I would not take pictures during the process...I have OCD about clean vehicles...and it was filthy during the build...still is...but here is the current mod list with the engine rebuild emphasized for those who are thinking about forging a Viper engine: Block: Cylinders honed with deck plates to size to fit .005†oversized pistons. Main bores in block have oil reservoirs machined into them. Block is line honed and deck’s were machined for clean up. Crankshaft: Crankshaft is Nitrided , ground and polished to size for proper clearance. Entire rotating assembly is balanced. Pistons: Custom Diamond Forged Pistons-dished, for better combustion. Gold ceramic coating (gold) on decks of pistons with Moly coating (dark gray) on piston skirts. Floating piston pin for strength and light weight, rings have been file fit for proper ring gaps in bores. Connecting Rods: Oliver Billet H-Beam Connecting Rods. 7/16 ARP Rod Bolts-bolts upgraded. 6.250†for better internal geometry. Heads: New stainless exhaust valves, intake valves cleaned, ground and back cut for improved flow. New Beehive springs, titanium retainers, new keepers and seals. Competition valve job, ports cleaned and touched up, heads milled on deck and intake faces for cleanup. Bearings: Gen 4 main bearings used for 160 degree oiling, with extra feed hole for volume. Main and rod bearings have Teflon Coating for durability. Pushrods: Chrome Moly pushrods used for strength. Engine was assembled on a flat surface instead of a rollover stand so that stresses would not be induced into the engine build. Camshaft Centerline was set at 121 degrees after TDC. Engine has Cometic Head Gaskets and ARP Head Studs. New Needle Bearing and Pilot Bearing in the back of the Crank and a new 1 piece Oil Control Valve in the oil pump. Drive Train Modifications: Centerforce clutch, Viper slave/master cylinder modification. X-Metal Gen IV shifter with Jedi lever. Moe’s Performance Drive Shaft Loop. DTS “Stinker†rear-end with Strang 35 spline axles, Detroit locker/cryo ring gear (4:56 differential ratio). Cal Tracs. Wilwood racing rear calipers. Exhaust Modifications: Full Cat delete; MOPAR long tube headers (Jet Hot Coated), and Magnaflow muffler. 172 degree thermostat Vector shift light VEC III Piggyback to PCM tuning module covered by Eddie’s clear box IAT 5.6 Ohm resistor mod JMB Catch Can (Candy Red) Roe Racing Breathers Boost Modification: Roe Racing Twin Screw Top Mount Supercharger at 5.6 lbs boost 48 lb. per hour injectors Roe Racing Water/methanol injection Appearance Modifications: Lowered by X-Metal De-badged Stock rims with PermaStar chrome finish by Goodrich Shorty 9 inch antenna and Fang shift knob by Avondale JMB Hard Radiator tubes (Candy Red) X-metal alloy seat handles Red and Silver Pinstripe Fang Badges front and rear Etched Glass “Fang Supercharged†center sliding widow by Hot Rod Mike
A lot of work and money for a strong 14 second truck!* *Fastest, quickest, strongest 14 second truck around! Truck can probably do mid 11's but the driver is old as dirt, and very slow.
Sean says I could go to a 10 lb pulley with no adverse impact...except on the rear tires...I may, but I have trouble handling the 5.6 lb pulley I have now. I will probably not be able to resist...but for now 5.6 lbs is what it is. I could gain maybe 120 rwhp with the $100 pulley...that would probably push me over 800 hp...scares me...others should be terrified.
I'm much more than dangerous...I am downright irresponsible and incapable. But then...you never really have too much horsepower...and besides I have a 5200 lb excuse, before I put my fat ass in it!
Depends on how you tune Prof...I have about the same HP numbers you do and I have a 10LB pulley (actually only makes 9LBs).....but my tune is conservative...easy on the timing....Torres had advised this for insurance against bad gas....but my TQ curve is almost flat from off idle to red line...never gets under 525 FTLBs (peaks at 619) from 2000 rpm to redline.. I have a 100 octane tune for the track but have not dynoed with it. It pulls much much harder than the 93 base tune (not that the 93 aint a beast) so I est 50-100 more hosses.
