^ lol. pirate.. it depends if you want to monitor a ton of stuff or not. im personally just going to get a wideband. i will probably end up going with a UEGO instead of XD-16 even though the XD-16 has been rated to be the best. the UEGO and XD-16 are on the same level as far as accuracy goes. the latency on the XD-16 was <100ms, and the UEGO was <400ms. and the AEM UEGO is like 220$ shipped, brand new, with everything included, compared to the 400$ for the whole XD-16 kit including the gauge. 300ms of refresh time is NOT worth 180$ to me.
ok so can I safely set my car to spike at say 20 or 18 and hold at 16? I have decided to go with the mbc, so do i set the controller at 20 or 18 and the agp wga at 16? And will this fix any PTB problems i may have?
You need a fuel return line, bigger intercooler... Just read the 300hp how-to its stickied on srtforums. MBC are junk IMO. Do what you like though.
but id rather have the mbc over the bleeder mod, all in all there same thing. and the 300hp will come i have what i have for now. I have the stage 1 pcm and MBC and the Agp wga, and a K&N drop in filter. I have also purchased new spark pluggs for the upp in the boost along with spark plugg wires. I also have bought the HKS bov to fix my current boost leak. And I have a stage 2 SBC clutch. I have spent enough money for now!! LOL o and im in the process of buying a wideband So once I get the wideband. What A/fs am i looking for?
Are your plugs one step colder? My car seemed to run much better once I switched over to those. Like everyone else said (or maybe they didn't shrug its early) if you are trying to break 300 talk to mario (505streetracer) he has made a damn quick car with that little stocker. :happy:
yea there one step colder, then stock. And yea I know Mario, I know what he has done and I'm pretty far off, so I hope to get what I get with what I have, then when I graduate college and get a real job!! I will have to invest in he DCR twin turbo set up!
kinda what i was thinking.. NO, you can safely set it to spike at XX and hold at XX, according to whatever the AFRs tell you.. hasn't that been stated like 15 times already?
THe HKS is the best BOV you can buy. It will fix my boost leak now that has given me fits since I bought the car. I also purchashed it because I thought it sounded the best, and in comparsion to all others besides the mopar bov there really isn't that much difference in price. $50 or $60 isn't much when it comes with buying the best or not in my opinion. what kinda driving is required during my break in period with my new clutch? Granny or just normal with no WOT or racing?
What up Jed???? The hks is probly the best designed BOV on the market but NOT the best sounding one..LOL.... I like the sound of the turbonetics raptor BOV but thats only my opinion. As far as the break in process for your clutch 500 to 800 in town mile u should be fine. You CAN get on it a little but DO NOT power shift till you have the miles on the clutch cause you can glaze your clutch and if your clutch gets glazed take it out, throw it away, and buy a new one cause that one is toast...... LOL *Shoot if anything Jed call SouthBendClutch and ask them what they recommend..... We just installed my new clutch and the dude at ACT told me 800 in town miles before i even think about racing.
Unless you modify it to get rid of the whistling noise. My buddy has one modified and it sounds BADASS. As for the boost leak. That could of been fixed for free. I just don't understand why people spend close to $300 or even more on a hardpipe/BOV combo that does NOTHING for the stock turbo. Just makes a "cool noise" Unless someone can prove otherwise.
nope, just makes a cool noise.. lol.. yeah.. the boost leak coulda been fixed without buying a expensive hardpipe/bov combo. but that takes someone who isn't a credit card tuner, and someone who actually would want to investigate the leak and fix it for free, rather then just spend money. stock BOV + rice plate = fine for stock turbo.
I don't like the rice plate. And I have boost leaked tested it to the point of making my self sick!! I couldn't fix it so i said the hell with it, and bought a good one! I dont work durring the summer for nothing! I like it so... whatever. and yea how did he modify it if you dont mind me asking?
I have about 70 dollars worth of T clamps on mine. You have to get the intercooler the pipes, there is one behind the turbo that always leaks. Also zip ties all the silinoid connections. Only leak I have is from the just above the blue plate. It bubbles just a tiny bit but my car has always puled hard for stock turbo cause we took the time early on to zip tie and T Clamp.
