o, i know they are high.. the guy is a complete moron, and wants to say he is pushing 21psi or whatever.. i have told him about 5 times.. im just waiting for the text/IM that his motor went bye bye.
In all fairness to this i have to say 22 is a bit high we got 300+ on 20.25 lbs not 22lbs and my turbo lost power when we lowered the boost below 20. We found that after a few hours on the dyno the best spot on my stock turbo and most efficient was between 19-20.25lbs. Plus the a/f was almost perfect on 20.25lbs. So thats where she is now sittin pretty at 20.25lbs. Plus it has been running strong for quite some time now. This stock set up won't be on for very long cause I have a modified s3 ported w/42lb big wheel, external wga, ceramic coated, rc 750 injectors and everything else needed for my new set up plus a lil something for more power. LOL... But as of now she still runs very very good. Here is my dyno sheet on 20.25psi
I know your car runs at it's best! Lol just look at some of his runs! a stage 1 owning a 03 cobra and and 01 c5 vette! I think he is doing something right! SO since i dont have a wideband can I just go to a Dyno and and check out were Im at untill i get the wideband?
if the dyno place has a wideband hooked up. and the only reason im doing it this way, is because i have one free dyno run. spend the 200$, and get a wideband. again, im just going to be adjusting mine to be 1-2 psi MAX over stock.
what do you think a manual boost controller is? back when my only mods were a needswings pipe and a ptp wastegate my car made the most power at 16lbs, it lost 10hp and 10ft/lbs at any boost level above that. the more i modified the car however the higher the "sweetspot" seemed to climb, at the end of my stock turbo days it was right around 21psi.
Interesting subject. Been keeping my eyes on this thread :shifty:. As I'm running s1 and still on stock turbo.
So i basically need to to get on a dyno to find out my sweet spot? I still dont get excatly what the bleeder mod is or what it excatly dose.
Ok i have been doing my research and this is what i have come to. Tell me were i'm right and wrong please! A MBC is good idea, not only dose it make controlling boost easy, it acts also as a bleeder mod and you dont have to deal with PTB. is this correct? Buying a wideband is a must! is this correct?
HAhaha thank you sean I was hoping someone was going to set her straight. :grin: A MBC is just going to set the boost until you get under the hood again. The bleeder mod allows the ECU to still control boost levels which will come in handy when the temperature and weather changes.
I was watching streetfire eariler and saw the aeroforce scan gagues. will these work in place of the wideband? In one of its options it shows the A/Fs
Its something you make. It looks like this. In essence you replace the .250" hole with a .040". By keeping the pressure behind the wga higher it allows the solenoid to react better to the agp which has a much stronger spring.
We did a boost leak test on my friends car and well.. it had a leak coming from that bleed hole you pictured... So its a natural boost leak? He also had a slice in his green line.
It shouldn't leak with the car off. The default position of the solenoid should be connecting the outlet pressure to the back of the wga. The computer controls the boost by cycling the solenoid at some % duty cycle. The bleeder which is connected to the third port, vents or "bleeds" boost off to regulate the amount the wastegate is open otherwise it would just open once the boost pressure overcame the wastegate spring pressure. This bleeder mod slows the venting of pressure from behind the WGA which allows the ECU to have better control of the WGA. Now you will still have some PTB. I have to stay below 10 psi unless I am WOT but it is still very driveable which I can't say about the MBC's.
Its something you make jed. Just get on ebay and buy yourself a ball and spring MBC. IT will cost you a whole 10 to 12 bucks shipped and it will work just fine bro. I have one and it has been working awesome for bout a year and a half now and is still going strong. A bleeder mod is a way to give your car more boost so you don't have to buy a MBC but the MBC is only 10-12 bucks dude and a bleeder is pretty much free.
ok im not worried about 10-12 bucks. now the one they sell on modernperformance is about 70 - 120 bucks!! that is a little harder to swallow but I can do it. So r the scan gagues good? what I saw they seem like they would be a better investment rather then just the AEM wideband. What i saw they tell you A/fs and like a 20 other things!! the vid is on street fire if any one else wants to see it.
The scan gauge will NOT read a/f's by itself. It has inputs for an analog signal that most widebands will have an output for. I have an AEM wideband and a scan gauge. AEM is ok but from what I am told it is not the most accurate for tuning. Innovate makes a really nice wideband that would plug in nicely to the scan gauge.
what is the innovate wideband going to cost me? Idk about spending that much on gagues! I really just want something to read a/fs for now because I apprantly need to b4 i can up the boost!
ok nvm i found out my sefl. I purchase the lc-1 for $199 then buy the scan gauges for another $350. or I can purchase the innovate wideband for $240. what do you all think. is it work the extra??
