ok this is what i'm getting done, do you guys no of anything I can do extra to help? My goal is around 300hp to the wheel. 3in TBE with a biger O2 housing. Stage 1 ecu agp Wga HKS SSQV upper and lower hard pipes Motor mounts Anything else? IS an CAI and a bigger FMIC needed or recomended at this stage? Or should what I have help land me where I want to be.
An intake is moot if your only trying for 300. Get the K&N drop in filter and be done with it. An upgraded FMIC is recommended. Not neccessaraly a big FMIC, but at least a better direct fit. And a map clamp/fuel controller.
Can I just get the apexi neo and not mess with a fuel return kit, or do I still have to buy the fuel return line kit? Is there any cheaper then the one modernperformance has? Because the fuel return kit is more expensive then the neo! Is the mpx FMIC a good choice, it seems reasonable in price. Dose this one fit directly on or do You have to make modifciations to the front end to get it to fit?
you definetly need fuel. you don't have to run a return line, but eventually it should be part of the plan. a neo is fine, or a dtec would be better though. don't forget a fuel pump too. you don't need a fmic. work on the other stuff first, and if you have left over cash or need those extra few ponies then go for it. concentrate on fuel right now, it's more important and beneficial.
I dont need bigger injectors correct? The 05's came with stage 1 injectors correct? What is a dtec? I like the looks of a bigger FMIC like the Mpx one, and it should help me now and with future plans, and I don't know if it matters, but the air in Missouri tends to be very hot and humid during the summer months.
from what i have heard, and researched, buying an FMIC isn't worth it until your in higher numbers like 300-310whp+ if your looking for 300whp, i wouldn't bother. you would be more apt for pressure loss from the extra size than it being worth the gain. if anything get a direct fit, same size FMIC, but a lil thicker and bar and plate style. id say screw the stage I ecu and get a SAFC II or an emanage. that way you can actually tune it instead of be stuck with super conservative maps. you don't really need hardpipes either. the HKS BOV isn't gonna help you get to the power you want either. if your wanting to get to the power level i would re-evaluate your items that your going to purchase and not spend un-neccesary $$$.
The HKS is going to help because my stock BOV leaks extreamly bad. And the HKS is the best and will help with keep the boost leaks to a minimum along with the hard pipes. In return very little to no boost leaks, means more power!! They don't make the SAFCII any more or atleast modern performance dosn't sell it. it's the neo now. Can I have the neo and not mess with the stage 1 ecu? THe FMIC was just a thought nothing more.
if u get a return line u dont need bigger inj cause with the 1:1 raise in fuel pressure with put out alot of more fuel and it also makes it easier to tune the mpx is a great fmic i got one when i was on stock turbo and i was able to still hold 16lbs at 6500rpm (S2) it made the intake temps drop alot cause it gets hot as hell in florida the best thing to do is get rid of the stock surge valve they are very prone to leaking get a block off plate the HKS is a great BOV due to the fact its a pull style BOV meaning the more u boost the tighter the seal it has, AGP has the best coldside pipe (my opinion) due to the figment easy as hell to install and alot of room between the slave cyl. A dtec is the best way to tune it but the problem is turbo xs doesnt sell them anymore due to buffer boards goofing up if u can find a old one go for it but a NEO is also a good fuel computer u can have 2 maps but u also need a tach driver also with the NEO and u DONT need a stage 1 pcm to use it also
getting a s1 should still be part of the plan even with a fc. you of course can run a s0 and tune, but s1 has more aggressive timing maps so modifications and tuning is a litlte more effective. plus it has the extra benefits of no codes and such. i've heard good things about the neo, never messed with it myself though. everyone around here uses dtec, safc or ems. i'd be interested in hearing a review from anyone that has one.
neo is SAFC and VAFC rolled into one, and has the 'pro' mode with 16x16 maps for finer tuning. SAFC II has just the AFC function and 12x12 maps for tuning.
So i will get codes with just the neo and not the stage 1 ecu? Or is a stage 1 just a waste of money if I get the neo? And how do you tune these up? go to a place with a dyno and have them tune it? I was raised as a old muscle car guy throw it on and not really much tuning and computer stuff required!
I forgot to add that you will NEED a wideband to determine AFR's before you even attempt to mess with boost levels.....
^^^PSSSSH. you dont need no stinkin wideband.. just up the boost til you hear knocking.. or get one of them SAWEET narrowbands, i heard they are super accurate. whats written above is a joke, for the love of god, and your car get a wideband before you even THINK about tuning. you will get a CEL on the s0 PCM, but it will still be tunable you will just have that annoying light on. vivat is using the NEO with s0 PCM to tune his srt4 and hes pushing like 380whp and all is well. he also has a bunch of other mods to get that power, but his sole tuning tool is the NEO. why not get a 30$ used stock BOV instead of spending 200$ or so on hard pipes and 200$ or so on HKS BOV? then you could get the s1 and a SAFC II. IMO, there isn't enough tuning capability of the neo to warrant the price. you can find used SAFC IIs for like 150$ shipped. half the price of a new NEO and only 4 points less tuning capability which would be perfectly fine for the 300whp range. only REAL reason to get the NEO is if you want something that 'looks cool' and to say you have it.
s1 and a neo are two completly different things, and are completly independent of each other. it's not a one or the other thing, you ideally should get both. no one said that you can't make power on a s0, sure you can, many people have, but you CANNOT pass emissions in most states. that's the big difference, as well as the more aggressive timing maps and lack of codes. you really think that the overboost code a s0 car is throwing is causing nothing other than a little light on the dashboard?
s1 will get rid of almost all your codes as amy said.... i suggest going safc ii, unless u plan on doing big turbo and just might as well fork the $ out for a aem ems...
WOW.. thank you SO much for clearing that up. I had NO idea a s1 PCM and a piggyback fuel controller were different things........ you mean they are not one in the same.. what was i thinking?!!?!?!?! the guy never said he was concerned about emissions, so why would anyone address it? you can't pass emissions either with a turbo back, catless exhaust. so obviously emissions are not a concern. as you can SEE, if you read, i recommended scraping the hard pipes and the HKS to get the s1 PCM instead. personally, i will be getting the s1 and a SAFC II so i wont have issues with emissions or annoying CELs. here is my suggestion: GET s1 PCM and SAFCII, will be like 600$ or less. you don't NEED the HKS BOV or hard pipes
thanks for your input but since i wasn't talking to you it doesn't really matter. but we really all appreciate the sarcasm. the op possibly has no idea that codes won't allow you to pass emissions. it's always a concern, and one that should be brought to the attention of anyone that is thinking about modifying a car. all potential issues are a concern, and a pretty major one is if your car can no longer get a sticker. not everyone is aware of the full effects that modifying a car can have on things other than performance.
