Anybody had an alignment done on their jeep? I heard the front would require shims if it needs to be adjusted?
SRT8 Front Alignment Individual Caster..... Individual Camber....... Individual Toe 4.10° ± 0.60°.......... -0.50° ± 0.60° ......... 0.125° ± 0.125° Max Rt/lt Difference Cross Caster........... Cross Camber............... Total Toe 0° ± 0.50°............... 0° ± 0.50°................ 0.25°± 0.25° CAUTION: STEERING COLUMN MODULE IS CENTERED TO THE VEHICLES STEERING SYSTEM. FAILURE TO KEEP THE SYSTEM AND STEERING COLUMN MODULE CENTERED AND LOCKED/INHIBITED FROM ROTATING CAN RESULT IN STEERING COLUMN MODULE DAMAGE. NOTE: Suspension components with rubber/urethane bushings should be tightened with the vehicle at normal ride height. It is important to have the springs supporting the weight of the vehicle when the fasteners are torqued. If springs are not at their normal ride position, vehicle ride comfort could be affected and premature bushing wear may occur. Wheel alignment involves the correct positioning of the wheels in relation to the vehicle. The positioning is accomplished through suspension and steering linkage adjustments. An alignment is considered essential for efficient steering, good directional stability and to minimize tire wear. The most important measurements of an alignment are caster, camber and toe. CAUTION: Never attempt to modify suspension or steering components by heating or bending. CASTER is the forward or rearward tilt of the steering knuckle from vertical. Tilting the top of the knuckle forward provides less positive caster. Tilting the top of the knuckle rearward provides more positive caster. Positive caster promotes directional stability. This angle enables the front wheels to return to a straight ahead position after turns. CAMBER is the inward or outward tilt of the wheel relative to the center of the vehicle. Tilting the top of the wheel inward provides negative camber. Tilting the top of the wheel outward provides positive camber. Incorrect camber will cause wear on the inside or outside edge of the tire. TOE is the difference between the leading inside edges and trailing inside edges of the front tires. Wheel toe position out of specification cause's unstable steering, uneven tire wear and steering wheel off- center. The wheel toe position is the final front wheel alignment adjustment. THRUST ANGLE is the angle of the rear axle relative to the centerline of the vehicle. Incorrect thrust angle can cause off-center steering and excessive tire wear. This angle is not adjustable, damaged component(s) must be replaced to correct the thrust angle. CAMBER, CASTER AND TOE ADJUSTMENT Camber and caster angle adjustments involve changing the position of the lower control arm with the slots in the frame brackets to move the lower control arm inwards or outwards for proper adjustment. This can be achieved by using a long pry bar with a curved tip and inserting the pry bar into the lower control arm frame brackets and prying inwards or outwards. NOTE: Camber and caster adjustments must be made at the lower control arm. Do not use the upper control arm for Camber and Caster adjustments. NOTE: When the lower control arm pivot bolts are loosened the lower control arm will normally go outwards automatically with the weight of the vehicle. CASTER Moving the rear position of the lower control arm at the frame in or out, will change the caster angle significantly and camber angle only slightly. To maintain the camber angle while adjusting caster, move the rear of the lower control arm in or out. Then move the front of the lower control arm slightly in the opposite direction. CAMBER Move both the front and rear of the lower control arm together in or out. This will change the camber angle significantly and caster angle slightly. After adjustment is made tighten the lower control arm bolt & nuts to FRONT169 N·m (125 ft. lbs.) and the REAR 88 N·m (65 ft. lbs.). TOE ADJUSTMENT The wheel toe position adjustment is the final adjustment. 1. Start the engine and turn wheels both ways before straightening the wheels. Secure the steering wheel with the front wheels in the straight-ahead position. 2. Loosen the tie rod jam nuts NOTE: Each front wheel should be adjusted for one-half of the total toe position specification. This will ensure the steering wheel will be centered when the wheels are positioned straight-ahead. 3. Adjust the wheel toe position by turning the inner tie rod as necessary. 4. Tighten the tie rod jam nut to 75N·m (55 ft. lbs.). 5. Verify the specifications. 6. Turn off engine. CURB HEIGHT MEASUREMENT The wheel alignment is to be checked and all alignment adjustments made with the vehicle at its required curb height specification. Vehicle height is to be checked with the vehicle on a flat, level surface, preferably a vehicle alignment rack. The tires are to be inflated to the recommended pressure. All tires are to be the same size as standard equipment. Vehicle height is checked with the fuel tank full of fuel, and no passenger or luggage compartment load. Inspect the vehicle for bent or weak suspension components. Compare the parts tag on the suspect coil spring(s) to the parts book and the vehicle sales code, checking for a match. Once removed from the vehicle, compare the coil spring height to a correct new or known good coil spring. The heights should vary if the suspect spring is weak. 1. Front Wheel Center Height – Measure the vertical distance between the front wheel center and the ground. 2. Front Cradle Height – On each side of the vehicle, measure the vertical distance between the center of the lower control arm forward pivot bolt to the ground. Record the measurement. 3. Take the two measurements and subract them to get the ride height specification. 4. Rear – On each side of the vehicle, measure the distance from the axle tube and the bottom of the upper spring perch. 5. Compare the measurements to the specifications listed in the following Curb Height Specifications chart: CURB HEIGHT SPECIFICATIONS FRONT.................. FRONT CROSS HEIGHT............. REAR ................REAR CROSS (LEFT - RIGHT) 100 mm ± 10 mm.........0 mm ± 20 mm............213.65 mm ± 10 mm.............0 mm ± 20 mm 3.93 in. ± 0.40 in.........0 in. ± 0.79 in.............8.41 in. ± 0.40 in.................0 in. ± 0.79 in. SRT8 REAR ALIGNMENT INDIVIDUAL CAMBER...................... INDIVIDUAL TOE LEFT & RIGHT -0.5° ± 0.25°............ 0.125° ± 01.25° MAX RT/LT DIFFERENCE CROSS CAMBER........ TOTAL TOE 0° ± 0.5°................ 0.25° ± 0.25° THRUST ANGLE 0° ± 0.17°
Wow, thats some awesome technical knowledge Wade! Although, you might have copied and paste that straight from some online resource.
Definitely a C & P there!! I havent looked at the suspension too much, but I would assume it will need shims. Most vehicles made now days dont have any adjustment. Did you whack a curb or what??
No I am getting the Eibachs installed soon with my new tires and I dont want any alignment or excessive tire wear problems.
The rears will stay the same and the fronts will just have a little camber....I cant believe that the drop will change them enough to have to worry about anything...Your toe should stay the same and that is about the only thing that is going to cause excessive tire wear. You can easily check that yourself
