Anyone that is running a blower system in their car, have you noticed your oil looking alot darker than otherwise would be expected? Or have you not noticed any change in oil color. Thanks.
Mine gets black within a few hundred miles because I am running a fat A/F till I get a final tune. Do you know what your A/F is running?
The reason why your oil gets black is because of carbon. You want your oil to turn black. Perfectly normal.
ty gents Gives me a little piece of mind. I change her at every 2500 miles but noticed it was very dark for that many miles. Also I am running pretty ritch anout 11.2 WOT. Thanks guys.
11.2:1 for a charged car is fine. I like to see 11.5:1 to 12.0:1 for my cars, but your golden where your at.
Ron is anyone tuning your car? If your coming to spring fling my shop is real close.... like 20 minutes out. We might be able to help you out. PM me if you want. OBTW thought you where gonna win the camshaft?...... :dancing:
lol Me and Hal exempted ourselves from the Cam. After all, we were one of the hosts. hehe Scott is still working with Diablo on the S/C CMR tuning. They are almost done, just a few issues to iron out. It is a bitch cause Scott has to strip the car of the extra injectors AND the Piggyback ECU. Scott tried to do a one off tune last weekend (with piggyback ECU) but the PCM didn't like it so it spit it back out. lol Thanks Josh.
LOL Ron you STILL don't have a damn camshaft lol?? And why is it that you and I, the 2 guys that need a custom tune the worst, are the only ones who don't have one lol.
BTW thanks Josh for shedding light on the oil problem, at first when I heard Ron I did get a litle ansy then I remembered that he didn't know the first damn thing about motors. Or fast cars for that matter.
Ron ditch the piggy and run the Blue Giants. They are 42lbs at 3 bar. More than enough fuel for you. Enable the MAP from the SRT 4, scale your injectors for the bg's and your done. If the bg's are to low of an injector and according to my calculations they aren't then run the srt 4's that are 45 lbs at 3 bar and your gold. If Scott needs help have him call me, I'd be glad to assist.
welcome lol. Also I am running the blue giants with a MSD boost-a-pump. I may be giving you a call when I have PPP do my tune if you do not mind. I am pretty sure I will be ok with my motor with 8.5 lbs but think that running 14 will maybe be too much thoughts?
Also interesting tidbit. I just did soem quick math and checked 3 forums and according to the records Ron has 2,476 posts on this forum, 1,994 on chargerforum, and 9,065 on srt8oc. So all together he has a wopping 13,535 posts on 3 forums alone!!! If we assume about 30sec per post, on average, that means he has spent 6,762 minutes or roughly 112.79hrs online watching these forums!!!! CAN WE SAY NO LIFE!??!?!?!
BAP's or Boost a Pumps are used primarily for stock fuel injectors. It's goal is to increase fuel pump voltage based on the output of the alternator. So what we can accomplish is faking the fuel pump into thinking it's actually larger than it really is. Example we can make a 190 gph pump think it's a 255 gph by adding a BAP. Kenne Bell I believe was the originator of this idea. It's a good idea when you are running an ECU that you can not set an IFR for, IFR meaning Injector Flow Rate. Back in the days a MBZ or Mercedes Benz you could not just put in a larger injector without setting MAF fuel trim codes. in order to get the car to accept the S/C sytem you had to install a BAP so that the fuel pump would goto 90 psi fuel rail presure under boost instead of 58 psi. Increase fuel rail pressure you increase the amount of fuel per ms accordingly. Now that CMR is available for your cars a BAP is no longer needed. Ditch the BAP and go with the correctly sized injector for your application.
maybe who knows lol. Also so for my application with 8.5 and 14lb pullie what would be my proper injector size??? Also if I just go to a bigger injector will the pump be able to supply enough fuel to the lines /rails to keep up with them?? Won't I hav to upgrade my lines and rails??
I'm assuming that 8.5 means you are running 8.5:1lbs of static compression. Assuming you are running a verified 14 lbs pully which really means you should be running a 1 bar or 14.7:1 pulley or laymans term one atmosphere you are effectively at max boost running a 12.95:1 static compression ratio. Which is at the top of the bar, hope your running 100+ octane. Depending on what your rwhp= rear wheel horsepower numbers are take your rwhp number and add 21% to that. 21% is what your drivetrain efficiency is. This is the amount in % that you lose from the crankshaft. The total of this number (21% + rwhp) will be your BHP = brake horsepower, use this number at http://www.rceng.com/technical.aspx?UserID=496947&SessionID=dDzXwWbQO2fb1ygPL4QH when finished you will get your "corrected injector size".
