I took the car to the stealership to have the error codes checked, because my ETC light was flashing, they said no error codes were found for the emmissions, only CAN BUS disturbance, they deleted the error. They do not know why or what caused it, I do have a kenwood with a can bus for the steering controls an a audiovox 921 remote start 2 way 1 button. Any ideas what CAN BUS disturbance is or fix it tips Thanks
What were the code numbers that they deleted? CAN bus disturbance is likely referring to electrical interferance on the bus to where data/messages were getting corrupted. It's an asynchronous bus and message frames have a CRC. Too many bits get corrupted, corrupted messages get discarded and it probably throws a code for that. Can bus disturbance would be electrical "noise" on the bus. Bad electrical connections, something generating too much electrical noise nearby, etc, might cause it. Most likely cause? I'd say the aftermarket stuff that interfaces with the can bus. Either the stuff itself or where it's connected into the bus. This just started after you had it worked on. If they disconnected any of those things the first thing to check is those connections. If they didn't get it back together right or something got pulled loose that could do it. Second thing to do would probably be to remove the aftermarket stuff. One at a time. If the problem goes away then you have isolated it.
Hi So maybe the CAN BUS connected to the radio is a cause or to many componets in one area, for example, my remote start and passport 9500ci and other wires all stored behind the knee panel stacked around each other
Yes, the radio or connection there could be the cause. No, too many components is not the cause. The physical bus is pretty well shielded against electrical noise so something generating external noise (like a really strong electrical field) is extremely unlikely. A bad connection, a bad connector, something like that is most likely. Something actively generating electrical interference on the wire is possible but unlikely.
Hi Thanks I can pretty much rule out the radio its a kenwood 9260 with can bus, from what your discribing the can bus is shielded, besides the radio has been there a long time It has to be the new passport 9500ci installation? The remote start has been installed a long time, true I had to turn it back on for the key fob to work an to remote start again, buts its programed as should be now. I have written to the stealer which code he showed,hopefully they remember. I asked the garage to look again at where they tied into for power for the 9500ci, its obviously tied into the power on when the ignition starts, could to many wires tied into the same wire cause the symptoms? The dealer simply deleted the error code would that be a fix? Thanks
No, you cannot rule out the kenwood. It's tied into the can bus. There is a connector where it plugs into the can bus or where the can bus plugs into the kenwood unit. That could be bad or loose or corroded or whatever. Yes, it very well could be the remote start. That ties into the can bus. No, it's probably NOT the 9500ci. That only has a power lead. There is nothing wrong with the power. The 9500ci does not tie into the can bus. It's tied into the can bus. There is a connector where it plugs into the can bus or where the can bus plugs into the kenwood unit. That could be bad or loose or corroded
Hi Well got back the car today, as from my last mail to you all they found for error was CAN BUS distubance. Found a guy with a stock 300C CRD 1. Started from a stand still on the highway, his stayed with mine all the way to 140 km/hr an we stopped 2. We did another test his car in front when he turned on his right turn signal (100 km/hr we were both to step on the accelerator, my car could not pass him 3. 0-100 same side by side 4 When I press the accelerator down the car does not downshift it just gains speed like stock, to make the car respond I have to be in first and shift manually to be quicker. 5 I never did get back the acceleration I once had for a day when I wrote to you an ask why was the car so responsive now, that one day where the car was great,accelerated at 100,120,140,took off quick from a stand still, I was ready to race, then the ETC light came back an nothing since then 6. Should I go get a dyno an see if I still have the mod, the dealer said he did nothing other then delete error code CAN BUS disturbance No oil around the swirl actuator,no leakage from the intake tube at the turbo,but order a new one updated This sure does not feel like 290 BHP remember its a CRD Any ideas?
One thing at a time. Fix the ETCs then deal with the performance (and my guess would be that they are not related).
Hi Well talked to the stealer, an got a shock, he said there were 44 error codes for the CAN BUS disturbance, I asked if he printed them out an no he did not, asked if he remembered some codes, no one remembers, now with 44 error codes you would think they would print it out so the error could be traced? His therory now is since the car at one point in the past was loosing battery power it would throw codes, then when I took it to the garage an the kept the new battery charged it was throwing codes, looked at the CAN BUS at the radio an it looks sound, no bare wires showing where everything was connected behind the knee panel, although it is a jungle of wires from all the boxes connected, 9500,remote start, chrysler siemens box (what thats for?). No lights as of yet Krafterk says he has no idea why I have no extra power from his mode(an this is a guy whose profession is with racing tuning 300C's) I assume he just does not want to be bother with support(for free) of is own mode. Next step is dyno test to check the HP an torque
Oh by the way if they scanned the car, would it show an error if my accelerator pedal and throttle were not calibrated?
Hi Something very important I forgot to mention that may be influencing the cause, a while back I had a pillar gauge pod installed with gauges (water temp and voltage) an a tracker installed, I believe from that point on I was starting to experience battery drain after a few days of non use of the car, I always need to jump the car,if you use it everyday no problem, so latley we decided it was maybe the tracker, took it out , when I got the car from the garage it was sitting 3 days an we needed to jump it, today I am asking the garage to trace the wires form the gauges to see it they are not pinched somwhere an touching metal an draining the battery, these are the only last two things installed since the battery drain, the remote was installed before all this an I never had a drain. Any ideas
What gauge is it? If it's not tracking OBDII parameters then it's not going to have anything to do with your ETCs. Battery maybe, but highly unlikely. If it's causing battery drain then it would be because someone hooked the tracking back up. If it's a pinched wire or touch metal it's either going to blow fuses or catch on fire. It's not going to drain your battery over the period of a day or hours. Battery drain would be a third issue separate from your others.
i would seek professional help with the gauges, music, and security system. Sounds like you have some install issues.
Well we took out the tracking system, its not that, radio was a 7120 kenwood which i changed to 9620. 9640 on your side of the pond, no issues with the gauges,no issues with the radio it was just plug an play from the other unit. The last install was the billet switch panel, which was to my view not that great, it works, on ignition, but the connections are just to close to each other without isolation(garage did installation) two wire have disconnected which were the belly lights to turn on when cruising the autobahn in Europe, my guess it is this panel an have asked the garage to look at it, what do you think should I pay the garage to recheck the switch panel if it was not installed correctly? Pierre
Anyway stereo was there no problem, remote was there no problem B4, so I have to narrow it down to billet switch, someone wrote on another form to connect a test light to the negative terminal an the negative cable(seperated of course) if a light come on then I have a short, pull fuses revalent to what I think is connected to what I use aftermarket
I assume you are trouble shooting the battery drain problem? Get a multimeter. Measure the current draw. Compare that to what the expected current draw is specified as in the service manual for your car. A on/off test light sounds really flaky. You got all kinds of things drawing power constantly. Maybe not enough to light a test light but you're drawing power all the time. Clock, memory for presets, security system, things waking up all the time to check for something and going back to sleep, Your remote start checking to see if you are pushing the button on your remote, etc... I guess that would depend on the current draw necessary to light your test light. Even with the specs from the service manual your aftermarket stuff may differ from what you replaced and the remote start would be entirely additional. If it's the ETC then don't rule out your aftermarket stuff. You had it in the shop where they did some body work right? Who knows what cables they pulled on or disconnected/reconnected.
Hi Took the car out again an the treadled ETC light came on, soooo I decided to switch out the remote with a new one had as a spare, drove the car again hard an no light an performance back as it was, (surely the remote has no connection) the battery drain before I switched remotes was 0.8 milliamps per hour, the drain of the battery was before they did anything the front, what they plan to do now is set it back up an pull each fuse till they see the draw from the battery stops, do you know where I can find something that shows what each fuse is for? the manuals Haynes an clifford do not show it
Would not chrysler have seen I had a bad ETC when they did the scan al they got was 44 error codes for the CAN BUS disturbance, hope the wek they find changing the remote box solved the problem, fingers crossed
Well today they hooked upthe battery to the tester an it shows the same drop so switching out the remote did not change, took out all the fuses under the hood except 11 an no change, later today they will pull out all the ones in the trunk and see, if no changes there, then it will have to be removal of everything one by one that is aftermarket. Would a bad swirl actuator pull power if it was shorted out with oil? Thats the ETC under the turbo an between the manifold. I am offshore so I could not drive the car hard again for a couple days, but after switching the remote box the ETC light did not come back on during the day I swapped it.
