How far apart (roughly) should the the nuts be to get it to hold 14-15 psi @redline? Also does the boost gauge read boost after or before the wastegate?
there is no real set distance, it's different on every car, you're just going to have to play with it. you should really have your wga set to around 12psi and raise the boost from there with a mbc anyway. as for where it reads.....um neither really. the wga is just a controller on the turbo. the stock boost gauge set up reads after the turbo.
Thats not entirely true. The AGP waste gate can be used in effectively without a manual boost controller and still see the same results. Here is some good info that will help you with any other questions that you may have. Good luck. Installation Procedure. 1. Remove the five 10mm bolts holding on the top portion of the heat shield. (You might want to use WD-40, Liquid Wrench, or PB Blaster to help in the removal process of the bolts.) 2. Remove factory actuator by pulling the pin out of the flapper arm and taking out the two 12mm bolts holding the body to the compressor housing. 3. Line the new bracket assembly up to the compressor housing and tighten down the two 12mm mounting bolts. Hand tight will work just fine. 4. Loosen the jamb nut on the arm so you can adjust the length of the rod end to match up to the flapper arm on the manifold. Pull the flapper arm toward the driver’s side of the vehicle so the flapper door is closed. 5. Slip the rod end over the flapper arm and reinstall the pin to hold in place. At this point you want to make certain there is a little tension on the waste gate actuator. Turn the adjustment nut toward the firewall of the vehicle about one full turn. 6. You may need to bend the corner of your heat shield to clear the new actuator, and reinstall. Running the Vacuum Lines 1. Remove both of the associated vacuum lines from the number 2 solenoid that is located on top of the stock air box. One line comes from the turbo (green line), the other line goes to the stock WGA (black line). These lines will not be used anymore. You do NOT need to cap these lines at the solenoid. 2. Attach vacuum line with bleed fitting to the turbo (where you removed the green line), and run that directly to the top of the new WGA. You may want to secure both sides of the vacuum fittings with zip ties to prevent them from blowing off. If you are using a boost controller, you will NOT use the supplied bleed fitting. 3. At this point if you are not running the Mopar Stage 1 or Stage 2 PCM, you’ll want to remove the red vacuum line going to the TIP sensor solenoid (red line). Cap the nipple on your upper IC hose with a vacuum cap. This will eliminate the Part Throttle Overboost Check Engine Light that is common on Stage 0 vehicles when upgrading the actuator and/or boost controller. If you have a 2005 vehicle, you may need to order stage 1 to completely eliminate check engine lights. Adjusting the Actuator In order to achieve the best performance out of this modification, you will need to “preload” the tension on the actuator. This is accomplished by loosening the jamb nut from the rod end and turning the adjustment nut towards the firewall. Every car is different, so there is no set number of turns to get the correct tension. Start out with your boost controller completely open (lowest boost possible) and adjust the tension on the wastegate actuator so that the car will produce approximately 15 psi of boost. Once you have achieved 15 psi without a boost controller, tighten the jamb nut against the rod end and start turning the boost up with the boost controller until you have reached the desired boost. If you are not using a boost controller, tighten the wastegate to achieve desired boost. This process may take a while to dial in perfectly, but it’s definitely worth it. Keep in mind that you might not want to take the car beyond 16 psi at redline because you are reaching the limit of the stock fuel system. The arm on the WGA flops around, is it broken? No, there is nothing wrong with the wastegate actuator. It is perfectly normal for the rod to move when not under tension. Which line do I use to hook up the wastegate actuator? We recommend using the source on the compressor housing where the green line was connected. I heard from a friend that you get more horsepower with the blue line and more torque with the green line, is this true? You need new friends. A pressure source is a pressure source whether or not it comes from the throat of the compressor housing or the outlet of the compressor housing. You do not get any different power output from either source. I didn't use the bleed when I installed my WGA but my car boosts to 18 and holds 15 at redline, should I install the bleed? Your choice, it seems as if you're getting the most performance you're going to achieve without the bleed. Personally, I wouldn't change anything. Why can't my WGA hold 19psi to redline? Dodge made a turbo that is too small for the engine. You simply cannot get enough air through the turbine to generate "more boost". Even if you welded the wastegate door shut, you will still only get 15-16psi at redline. Can I hook up the WGA to the stock lines? Yes. We don't recommend it as the car will eventually learn the higher boost, but it's your car and you can do what you wish with it. If it works for you and you're happy with its performance, I wouldn't change it. I just hooked up the WGA and now I get a flutter at part throttle, is this normal? Yes. The WGA allows the turbo to spool up faster and will give a lot of part throttle boost. Sometimes you will get a lot of flutter at part throttle and at low RPM full throttle. This is just a by-product of having a turbo that's way too small for the car. You will learn to drive the car differently. Do I need to cap the solonoids where I removed the green and black line? No. No matter what your friend tells you, as long as you remove the lines from the solonoid, there is no need to cap them anywhere. I installed my WGA, and now I get a Check Engine Light. What do I do now? If you have stage 0, you will need to remove the red TIP sensor line that goes from the upper intercooler hose to solonoid #1. Completely remove this line from the car and cap the nipple that is left on the upper intercooler hose. If you have stage 1 or 2, you do not need to do this. NOTE FOR 2005 USERS. You may get a P2074 code with stage 0. The first step is to make certain your vehicle has had the reflash 18-042-04 performed at the dealer. If you have already removed the red line and you have had the reflash completed at the dealer, you may need to purchase stage 1 to rid yourself of all check engine lights for your 05. I just bought an AGP Wastegate used and it didn't come with a bleed. Is it safe to hook up without one? Certainly. The bleed is there to help equalize the pressure in the line going to the wastegate and should make for a more smooth boost curve, and holds boost a little longer. If you don't have a bleed, try hooking it up without one. You're not going to hurt anything. If you want one, drill a .045" hole in a fitting and you're good to go. How do I get rid of PTB (Part Throttle Boost)? This is one of the drawbacks when upgrading your car with an AGP WGA. Because the turbo is so small, it spools up too quickly is a lot of situations. When you install the WGA, you have more tension holding the wastegate closed longer, which results in higher boost, and holding that boost to redline. PTB occurs because the exhaust energy, created with just a small amount of combustion, speeds the turbine shaft to a point where the compressor creates "boost". This "boost" is unable to make it all the way into the engine because your foot is only opening the throttle plate a little, and the extra "boost" only has one place to go, and that is back to the compressor wheel, causing surge. This PTB that everyone talks about sounds much worse than it actually is. You will learn to drive your car differently so you don't experience it all that often. The benefits of 15psi at redline definitely outweigh the drawbacks of occasional PTB. Don't let someone sell you a spring "upgrade" for the wastegate by claiming it's going to hold more boost at redline and eliminate PTB. It will not, or we would sell it. I can't boost past 10psi, my diaphragm must be torn. Can I get a replacement? If your diaphragm was torn, you would not be able to control boost at all. Boost would be way too high, not low. You have a boost leak, or multiple boost leaks which is preventing you from running higher boost. Fix them. What size hose should I use for connecting my WGA? Since you'll be eliminating a lot of the factory vacuum lines with the installation of the WGA, you can certainly use leftover hose from that. If you wish to use new hose, we recommend 7/32" vacuum hose that can be purchased from your local auto parts store. I have Turbo Toys from my stage 2 setup. Can I still use DAB? If you hook the WGA up using the factory vacuum lines, you'll still be able to use Dial A Boost. If you hook the WGA up like our directions state, you will not. Since I've decided to keep my DAB because I run Turbo Toys, should I still use the bleed that was included? Although we do not recommend running the wastegate to the factory lines and solonoid, we do understand that people with Turbo Toys want to keep the DAB function. Most likely you will not need to use the air bleed when you connect the wastegate to the stock vacuum lines. You can certainly try it both ways.
not really. with just a wga you will get a lot more ptb than you will on a wga/mbc combo. plus a mbc can hold higher boost levels than a wga can due to the limitations in the spring of a wga. a wga is not a mbc, and vice versa. people run both of them for a reason........
People run both on a big turbo setup because its needed there's only about 20% of owners running stock turbo that try experimenting with a wga/mbc setup. A mbc with aftermarket wga on stock turbo was something that was tested the first couple years the SRT-4 was out and didn't yield great results. Also, using a mbc or even an ebc on a stock turbo results in unstable spikes even if it reduces ptb you still don't have stable boost as you would with just tuning the wga. Atleast then what you set the spike to is what you spike everytime instead of worrying about over boosting from speratic unknown spikes. AGP wga by the way for the stock turbo, if purchased new, comes with a bleeder in which lets you hold more boost till redline so Mighty Whitey is correct. AGP also stated this. Also a way to reduce some ptb when running an aftermarket wga is "T" off into the hose between the two green lines that runs to the back of the turbo. Cap off the end of the (big) black line. If your not running the stock surge valve then you cap off the end of the pink line as well. PCM then still thinks its controlling everything since the solenoids are working hence reducing ptb since the airflow is being pushed through the solenoid. FYI not ALL aftermarket wga's have bad PTB. There's two in the market that have little to none. One in which I used to run on my car. Trust me I've done plenty of testing on the stock wga, s2 wga, and some aftermarket wga's to know what works well and what does not. I've also had my experienced with running a boost controller with a AGP wga and the yeilded terrible results. Uncontrollable spikes with PCM pulling timing, top end performance suffered. I've had plenty of turbo vehicles and have ran mbc's and ebc's in the past to know they simply DO NOT work well on small turbo's. BTW, your suppose to have tension on the wga (15psi) then bring it up with a boost controller. Not 12 psi which most aftermarket wga's you cannot go that low without having the wga arm flapper slightly opened.
Vader, When you put the AGP wga on the car with no tension, you will only see about 13-14 spike. Loosen the lock nut closest to the flapper arm and turn the other nut to add more boost or reduce boost. Turning towards the front bumper lowers boost... turning it towards the interior of the car raises boost. Turn it 6 times and tighten up the lock nut. Do some 3rd and 4th gear pulls and see where it spikes to. Mine I was spiking 15 turned it 6 times and I was at 17 spike. The AGP wga takes a lot of turns to get to the spike you want to be at. My recommendations: Stock PCM untuned 16psi spike MAX Stage 1 untuned 18psi spike MAX Stage 2 untuned 20psi spike MAX The stock turbo loses efficency past 20psi in which it starts drawing in hot air and your really not benefiting from it. Although I'm sure you've heard of people spiking higher. Some is because they are running water injection and which they are capable of spiking then that high and some are because they have ported parts. Of course usually the more tension and the higher spike you might hold more boost. If you spike 16psi it will probably drop to 13psi by redline... spike 17psi it will probably drop to 14-15psi by redline... spike 20 and you MIGHT be able to hold 17-18. Every car is different and depends on how well of a shape the turbo is in. Hopefully this information helped you in some way and good luck! Feel free to ask any more questions if you need more help.
I hear you. I'm not trying to argue or in no way implying an argument. Just correcting statements which I find not to be a solid truth. All I can do is provide the information I know and provide information based on experience of my own. But the information you provided is correct and what you pasted is exactly what AGP has in their installation thread on the other forum.
AGP Wastegate/Greddy Profec Combo works beautifully. Get a Boost Controller so much easier to lower/Raise boost when needed. Weather changes can cause boost levels to vary,so go with a Controller with the wastegate, turn the knob or press the button and your good to go.
AGP definately. Some people who have S1 like to run the S2 wga to stay under pcm control boost and don't feel like dealing with part throttle boost. But being under pcm control boost the pcm will raise/lower boost depending on temperature. Not to mention 1st and 2nd the pcm limits the amount of boost you can run. So go with the AGP.
Stop With The Back And Forth :argue: just stop it lol yo use the wga and a mbc its great either way dont even matter becuase evryone her should of been tellin you if your completly stock you can only hold up to 17 psi if that so dont worry. if your holding 15 psi or 16 psi at redline your doin WORKKK peace kid byw if anyone has a agp wastegate cuzz mine crapped out on me at 19psi had it for a LONGGGG time i need one asap 100 bucks shipped let me no anyone please helpp!!! thanks guys
That I do $110 shipped USPS priority if you want it quicker feel free to kick in some extra and tell me how you want it shipped.
hey im new here but there is a way to run a boost controller and let the ecu run the boost and its a hell of a setup got it on my 4 and i got the stock turbo and stock ecu i spike 18 and hold 15 to red line and i only get 5to7 psi at part throttle like the ecu is set up for
