HELP! Stripped Lug Nut!

Heh heh....you could have saved yourself if you'd posted about some badass 7-series (745 or 760) with AWD.

Lift kits and 33" mudders don't count....so no personal stable pics.
LMAO
:laugh:

 

Yeah...we'll be picking one of those up right after I start dating men.

6-series AWD FTW!!!


Believe it or not, this "baby Jag" has been awesome in the 3 years we've owned it. Pretty low maintenance (save for this adventure), and only 1 or 2 minor factory/warranty problems.

Parts aren't too bad: new rotors and pads, all the way around, will be just under $400.
My labor, however, will be off the hook.
LOL

 

Fixed.
:grin:

 

Just got back from the Jaguar dealership where I picked up a couple of FIFTEEN DOLLAR lug nuts.
Each.
Yes....$30 for (2) lug nuts.

While there I figured I'd get some info to make me happy, and asked for a quote for replacing all the rotors and pads.

"$1103.50"
(not a typo)

Eleven hundred dollars for rotors and pads?
Puff, puff.....PASS.

 

Sorry for any confusion, Bryan.

With ME doing the rotors and pads it will be under $400.
If I dropped it off at the dealership it'd be $1100+.

Examples:
- TOL pads from Napa are $45./pr.
- From the dealership, they're $133./pr.

- TOL rotors from Napa are $85./ea.
- From the dealership, they're $165./ea.

In most cases, the aftermarket parts are even better quality/durability than the dealership parts.
And sometimes, they're the SAME damn part!

As a bonus, I also get an education on Jag brakes/ABS/ESC.
:grin:

The lug nuts are extremely specific, and thus their high price tag and availability via the dealer. It sucks, but...

 

I guess I'll keep going with this saga...

So, the problem arose originally when the last tech put the lug nuts on. He obviously DID NOT use a torque wrench and do it properly (more than likely he used an impact wrench dreaming of being on Jr.'s pit crew).
The lug nut was over-torqued....and cross-threaded.

When I went to try and remove it, the lug nut started to go, but then the flanges on the stud (the flat spots that keep the stud from spinning freely, and keep it mounted in the hub) stripped out and the stud began to spin freely on the hub.
What a huge PITA.

So, after my mini-hacksawing adventure, I have to replace the entire hub (I can not just re-insert a new stud; the mounting hole for the stud has been completely rounded).

In order to replace the hub, the entire spindle needs to come off.
In order to get the entire spindle off, the front suspension needs to be almost entirely dis-assembled.

Here ya go:


It gets better!
Separating the hub from the spindle is...well...something I don't have the tools (or manual) to do. It's obviously done by a very specialized piece of equipment....one that I'm not paying for. LOL

I'm headed BACK to the Jag dealership to see if they'll remove the old hub and install the new one.
And find out what it will cost to do that. :grin:


If this nightmare isn't reason enough to use the proper tools and correctly torque your lug nuts, then I think you should give away your SRT and roll a Hyundai instead.

 

Quick- if it was a '64 Nova, I'd be at the welding shop faster than you could say Miller. Unforutnately, it's *her* Jaguar....and it's got ABS, and DSC, and all that stuff with sensors in the spindle.
If it were my vehicle, I'd say "screw it" and weld one in (if I could find one!). But since it's her car, I'm not chancing it.

I gotta say I'm impressed with how the dealership took care of me today. I brought the parts in, asked for them to swap old with new.
"No problem."



SWEET!
Had to buy a new bearing ($80), and toss the tech some cash ($30). Had it back in 15 minutes.

I wish re-assembly would only take 15 minutes.
:grin:

 

Yeah. I was pretty worn out yesterday. Model-specific tools = FTL. LOL
Frustration and corrosion are not a good mix.

I'm still waiting on the rear rotors to arrive.
I'll get crackin' on finishing this thing up after the hockey game tonight.

I'm not sure if there's any dry ice left. I haven't been to that side of the car yet today. :grin: