Stage 2 WGA on Stage 1 ECU

Update:

It got up to 74 today, beautiful out for once!

Go on it a couple times running errands and it wasn't going up too fast.... So I decided to go WOT and hold it. It shot upt to 20 then to 19 and held it pretty good... Went off to work a few hours later and id some WOT runs, spiked at 19 then went to 18 and held 15 til redline.

On my way home it was cooler out.. Probably low 50's... Did a WOT run and it went up to 18 and held 14 til redline. The needle was shakin a tiny tiny bit.

So after 180 miles, the computer has finally learned it. I am thinking about adjusting it a bit and maybe put a tad of preload and see what happens when I get time. I also need a wideband! I don't want to fubar my car up.

 

As far as AFR's go what I have noticed is that at 20 psi WOT I have been running about 11.7 to 12 which is right at the edge of the no no zone.


As a side note I took the bleeder that comes with the agp capped off one end and put it in place of the stock bleeder on the #2 solenoid. I'll let you guys know how it runs as I drive throughout the day and if it works I'll post pics showing what I did.

Update:
Once the car was warm I took it out wound it up in 2nd gear till about 3k then hit it. 17 psi spike holding about 14-15 thru 3rd. Plus the PTB is almost non existant. For grins I had it at about 2k in 2nd and pushed the pedal down about 1/2 way the pressure built up nice and steady no crazy spikes.

 

That's very good news! I wouldn't go past 18psi. On S1 with stock fuel system the pcm starts to pull timing after 18psi. 18psi max spike on s1 with stock fuel. So i wouldn't add more preload, I would actually take a bit off if your boost gauge is reading correctly and sits at "0" when the car is shut off. Also the little bit of shaking could be flutter or its usually a sign of a boost leak.

 

12.5 is the actual borderline zone on AFR's. 11.5 - 12 is about what you would say would be a safe range for a tuned car. Anything past 12.5 is in the red zone meaning danger zone. Not seen on the wideband really, as it happens on a split second, but you can see it on the dyno, on initial WOT... these cars go lean for a second, like a lean stumble.

Now for the AGP mod, sounds like it works very well. Please post pics/details how you did it as I would like to do it as well. Thanks!

 

I'll post real pics tomorrow but I took the bleeder shown below capped one end and then slapped on a rubber vac fitting and slid it on and then zip tied all the connections.



I went and bought some parts to make a better version of it and I will just drill a 1/16" (I think) hole in the plastic piece. I'll post pics of that too.

 

I am at 0 preload. So there is no way to take some off. lol

Okay I am in a bit of dilemma. I was checking out the how-to 300hp thread on SRTforums.

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f24/how-2-300whp-stock-turbo-again-158821/

I am worried about my AFR since I don't have a wideband gauge. Which I plan on getting hopefully this summer or so.

There are so many factors it seems like when you are running higher boost on the stock turbo.

-Would you need a higher octane for 18 or so lbs? All we have out here is 91 octane. Maybe putting a can of the "Nos" Octane booster in my car would raise the octane a couple of points.

ehhh.
-How do Mapclamps work?

:hmm:
I don't want to blow my motor from raising the boost.

Hmmmm this might be my next mod...


I know upping the boost on the stock turbo will kill it off quicker.


I also have a brand new AGP WGA and I am not sure if I should give it a shot or just sell it... I hear good things about it, but I my Stage 2 seems to be working fine... I am just torn and whether I want my car to go faster but lose realibility. I would be happy with 250 whp.

I plan on getting my car dynod the 30th with AFR. I will for sure do another boost leak check before then, and maybe change my oil. (Its getting close, not sure) Maybe switch out WGA's and try the AGP.

 

Here is my dyno with s1 ecu and s2 wga 0 preload, thermal o2 back 3" exhaust, mopar CAI and 91 pump. i was spiking around 20 psi on this run. I was still getting some compressor surge but this should at least give you an idea of whats going on.

 

I finally took a pic of the bleeder. The other one is still on the car but this one should give you an idea of what I am doing. The hole is .040" BTW

 

Wow! Those are some awesome numbers! Are those your only performance mods at the time>? Were you running your stock surgevalve?

I am getting mine dynod the 30th of this month and want the most power. (Of course)

Is there any possible way I could lose power from the Stage 2 WGA? It seems to be doing fine.

Also, I might be taking off the stock surge valve and putting some copper hi temp permatex, I would of course have to remove the battery and WGA to get to those damn dreaded bolts. Would the computer have to relearn my Stage 2 WGA during that process?

I might try that vac bleed thing if I install my AGP...

 

Actually I was down on torque a bit was expecting around 330, after talking with dysphagia. I did however find a leak in the line going to the wga so that could have been causing all of my problems with it learning the wga.

That run was made with a forge bov which I am not really to happy with right now. Seems a bit slow on the release I almost always hear a loud flutter before the "psssh" at higher boost levels. I have alittle shaft play and I am wonder if that is the cause. Gonna give the sneeze plate a try and see if that helps out.

You shouldn't have to remove the wga or the battery to get to the surge valve bolts. You should be able to reach one from the top and the other 2 by coming in from the passenger side of the vehicle under the turbo manifold. Mains and I are gonna swap surge valves here soon maybe we can do a quick write up for it.

 

I have done the surge valve quite a few times and reaching under was only to tighten or take off that dreaded third bolt. But putting it back on was a different story. I am thin, but I am no Gumby. What bolt do you put on first when its going back on?

 

I haven't done it in about 10 months but IIRC the one on top then I reach under to get the other 2 started.

 

Sorry guys I haven't been able to write a good how-to on how I get the wga's tuned so quickly but I will soon. Just been so busy.

 

Well I am gonna try and retune again with my setup. I did a boost leak test and it turns out I had a huge leak right in front of the wga. Might explain alot of my problems.

 

The black line that attaches to the WGA>? You still have your stock piping right? Not aftermarket vac hoses I am trying to say.

 

Yup

 

Well just a little update after having it on my car for quite some time.

It was warm out, around 66 last week. I spiked 17 really fast, then it fell to 15, then went up to 16 and went down to 14 by redline.

 

To me that sounds like its the solenoid fluttering. Try the bleeder mod, it should take care of that. It would keep the pressure behind the wga higher, so you wouldn't oscillate as bad.

I got mine set to spike about 19 and hold 16.

AFR's are great too. 11.3 on the spike trailing off down to 10 by redline.

 

I still have to do the bleeder mod you did Nate. I want to try it out.

 

Do it you will be amazed at the difference.