Ok so yesterday I put in 4 hours and today have another 2 hours in and I still havent got the stock system out. I have 1 bolt left on the drivers side header, its the lower bolt on 1st tube closest to the radiator. Can anybody offer me a tip on how to remove this bolt ? Also can anybody offer any tips on getting the longtubes in ? Im doing it in my garage and Jeep is plenty high, my biggest problem has been that every bolt on this project has been that everybolt has some sort of locktite material, even the starter was a bitch to remove. I have almost every hand tool ever made and Its not my 1st time working on a vehicle, these headers are just a pain in my rump. BTW- I believe I read that Stanko did a comparision on SW and Kooks, did he install em or have them installed by somebody ?
Yikes. PM InfernoSRT8 (Tony). I am pretty sure Tony has some experience with the header bolts when they kept coming lose. I wish I could be of more assistance, but I have only seen LT's go into the Jeep. And it wasn't easy. I think you need to losen the motor mounts???
I don't wan to talk for Stanko but I believe he had someone else install his headers. That drivers side bolt gave my Chrysler Viper mechanic fits, he removed the inner fender wells and went in from the drivers wheel side with a socket extension that was like 2ft long. But yes they are a PITA but once they are on you will love the sound and the power. Make sure you use Mopar gaskets and not the Kooks gaskets, they will eventually leak, I have had no leaks to date............knock on wood. Good luck
I knew there was something out there for helpful hints on LT Header installs... Hows2nd (Lance) wrote this up a long time ago. http://www.srt8oc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4183&highlight=Long+Tube+Headers+install
Dude I tried it once......and I mean once! I paid after that. The easiest way is to remove the heads or find someone with skinny arms.....seriously!
Gotta remove the inner fender, and loosen one motor mount, then get a jack to lift it up a bit... If I remember correctly.
Im going to read that as soon as Im done here Part of the hobby for me is doing all my own wrenching, it also justified the $20,000 in tools to the Ex-wife :rofl: I started to remove the innerfender but didnt see how it was going to help, the frame rail is in front of innerfender. I see that it says to jack motor and loosen motor mount, the only problem I see with that it I might not be able to tighten it when I get longtubes in. Thank you all for your help, I removed the Battery and Batterytray and got to it. You guys and Edwin@Southern Hotrod gave me the tips to get er done. Also changing the IPOD from Metallica to Pink Floyd also helped. So far the install is going good, its a good thing I didnt follow the directions Stainless Steelworks gave me. They say to only loosen the bottom bolts because the headers are slotted, well they are but the gaskets arent. Shame on them:viking: http://www.skittlesracing.com/Header2.JPG
Ari you're right on the motor mount and lifted a bit, I totally forgot that my tech mentioned that to me when he finalized everything. It took him the course of 3 days (1 hour here then another hour there, about 10 hours collectively to get it done)......... and I was up there every 3-4 hours watching..............he did do the motor mount though.
Lots of Beer and Pizza the 1st day, Second day we test drive the rig on the way to Ruths Chris :mouth: I put in another 2 1/2 hours tonight and headers are bolted to heads. The stock pieces are really well built and basically same thing Mustang guys pay for when upgrading from stock pieces.(Assuming the chose shorties and not Longtubes) Im amazed how easy the Longtubes went in, the bolts were easier to tighten than on stock headers. So far I have to say that anybody who says you need a lift is just saying it because they are lazy.
Beer and Pizza the first day followed up by a good steak dinner as long as we dont have to wear a suit and be confused for a gay couple at Ruth's Chris your on.
