Stage 2 WGA on Stage 1 ECU

My expierence so far:

Well I marked the end of the canister and I had a bit of space due to the thickness of the marker. Installed the WGA. Had it set up so it went over the arm and kept it at 0-1mm give or take. This is after tightening everything down and going on WOT runs....

Driving: 42 degrees out.

I kept it in 3rd gear and steadily went up to 3k RPMS then went WOT. I was planning to watch it steadily go up and let off at 16-18 psi. But nope, lol, it went wooosh all the way to 20 psi just like that. I let off right away of course, then did it about 8 times or so trying to control it so it wouldn't go past 20 psi, but that was really hard. So I tried 2nd gear and it wouldn't go past 15 in 2nd gear when I mashed on it at 3k. Did a couple more in 3rd but it was still zooming past 20 psi. I tried timing it and let off at 19 or so. But its really difficult. Only drove it for about 8 or so miles.

Should I keep doing this or add some preload so it builds boost slower? I will do 4th gear on the interstate since thats 1:1 (if that even matters) on my way and back from work tonight. As I stated earlier I let off right away, when I see it go past 20 psi on a 20 psi gauge I let off. Should I just keep going WOT to redline, I am guessing not since I don't want my turbo/engine to blow.

FYI:

Stage 1 ECU
AEM SRI
3'' 02 housing
3'' downpipe
3'' exhaust
CTI Chargepipe These mods in bold should help me not use as much boost right?
New NGK 4306 gapped at .036
checkvalve and catch can.
Boost leak checked last weekend, got all the leaks fixed.

 

Reduce(lower) the preload,also your stock blowoff valve isn't any good over 19 PSI anyway it will leak.. After reducing the preload(probly a turn out) get vehicle to operating temp and hold WOT in boost as long as possible even in 5th gear the PCM will learn and start to lower boost it has to adapt. Again use caution and if it still is going over 20 psi, I would reduce preload another turn and retry.. Have fun..

 

^^^ what he said lol

the ecu's take a little while to learn new mods so you'll be overboosting for the first few runs but it should lover pretty quick. you really don't want more than 17 or so on the stock fuel.

 

The stock surge valve was tested up to 24 psi with no leakage. Hell the Stage 3 uses the stock surgevalve.

Back on topic:

So less threads showing = lower preload?

 

Preload is adding... putting a load on the spring. I've ran the s2 wga with s1 pcm to test it out. What you want to do and I've read it time and time again is to do a 2mm preload. I just go by the amount of threads showing when doing these. Because not every wga is the same just like not every Snickers bar is the same.

On s2 wga you want to put preload.

When you install an s2 wga you want to reset the pcm... I disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it disconnected for 20-30 min. Some do it for less and some do the fuse method.

After you reset your pcm the first 10 miles/10 minutes whichever comes first the pcm is relearning some of its parameters. During that period DO NOT go past 15psi. Get on it wot and as soon as it gets close to 15 let off. Continue to do this for 10 miles/10 min. After which you can go WOT and see what it spikes to then levels off to.

If its not spiking where you want it...
too high - take off some preload
too low - add some preload

Keep in mind when its cold out pcm lowers boost, hot out it raises boost.

 

:stupid:

Kingnate had the worst luck with s2 WGA with his S1 ecu, crazy bastard would never listen.

 

He isn't kidding I am currently fighting with an agp right now. I did it exactly as everyone told me and it still would take forever to learn it.

I dunno what the deal is but I would drive it easy for 10 or 20 miles then gun it and would hit 23 psi before I could let off. It seemed to take my ecu a couple weeks of driving easy to get rid of the surge and the high spike.

 

Nate I will give you my s2 and my s0 wga for your agp when you give up :fear:

 

Haha thanks mains, and thank you for the vote of confidence too. lol

 

would you sell the s2 mains? ill need it when i get reflashed

 

This is the guide I went by:

http://www.srtforums.com/forums/f221/stage-2-wga-stage-1-a-211631/

How long did you run the S2 WGA for to test it out? You got to control it right?

I had taken off the neg. terminal when I was doing my plugs and wires at the same time. The damn Granatelli wires didn't clamp onto my spark plugs, so I had to reuse my Accels. Thats another story in itself. Well anyways I had started my car up after putting my old wires back in just to make sure the car would start up since it didn't start up with the Granatelli. I probably should of just isntalled my Stage 2 WGA before I started the car up..

I am confused on that little flapper arm. When you have less threads showing on the WGA arm the eyelit is going to be closer to the WGA. The flapper on the turbo manifold goes from left to right. You put the arm on there when its all the way to the right pointing towards the WGA correct? So when you ad more threads that arm is going to go left a bit due to it lengthening the arm.

Less threads will add preload since the flapper is all the way to the right and you got that WGA arm on there really tight and this will bring the spring into action and my black line will go farther out.

Is this correct?

When I first installed it I let the car get up to operating temps and probably onlydrove it 6 miles or 5 minutes before I got onto it since I was following that other how-to. Didn't say anything about driving it for a period of time before getting onto it. I also didn't go WOT anytime until I was over 3k rpms. So I would say stay in third and get up to 55-60 very slowly before I went WOT.

I drove it home that night from work and still boosting way too high. You would think the computer would learn it quickly so I cannot hurt the engine by overboosting.

You see my WGA in the pict. I am at what 1mm preload. So why the hell am I boosting so high specially in this cold weather?

So I can basically stay in vac for the first 10 minutes or 10 miles? Do I have to wait until I get to 3k rpms before I go WOT? Because when I was at 3k and smashing it it would zoom up uncontrollably so I am guessing I just drive normal and get on it in 3rd gear at 2k, because then boost will build slower and I will hopefully be able to let off before 15 psi. That 15 psi standard is even for colder weather?

WOT is pedal to the floor correct? Because I can build boost up to 15 psi by pushing the pedal down gradually.

 

Regular steps to installing it without any preload...
You bolt down the wga (2 bolts) to the compressor housing. You hold the wga flapper closed then turn the wga arm until it fits on there and is snug (tight). You put the cotter pin on.

Adding preload...
You must loosen the 2 bolts that hold the wga to the compressor housing... DO NOT take them completely off. Take the cotter pin off. Take the wga arm off the flapper, loosen the lock nut on the wga arm, turn the wga arm for it to show less threads... I say turn it about 2-4 times to get some judgement as to where your at (Like I said not every s2 wga is the same). Then make sure the flapper is close (towards the driver's fender = closed), put the wga arm back on the flapper, put the cotter pin back on, then tighten the 2 bolts on the compressor housing.

If you stay in vac for the first 10 min/10 miles the pcm won't be able to pick up where the boost is set to or even see boost. Even on a stock wga when you reset the pcm and you get on it afterwards it spikes high... I've seen them spike to 20 then settle down as soon as the pcm takes full control after learning some parameters.

As your cruising just press down quickly on the pedal like your going to go WOT, the boost shoots up so fast that you want to let off at or by 15psi not go past that. 15 psi is more of a safe point and is what the pcm see's when you run a stock wga. So this philosphy is used on another other wga as well on these cars.

WOT is wide open throttle, pedal to the floor.

Like I said I wouldn't worry about the 1mm preload or any of those "mm" preloads as every wga is different. Some even run 2mm preload and so fourth. Its a matter of tuning it and getting it where you want it.

I too read that thread when I decided to run the s2 wga. I ran the s2 wga for a little bit as I was transitioning from a PTP wga to a AGP wga. So when I sold my PTP wga I figured I'd give the s2 wga I have a try. Hot outside I got it to spike 18-19 and hold 15, lower temps it would spike 16 and hold like 12-13. With PCM control boost it differs.

BTW, 1st and 2nd gear are limited on boost when running PCM control boost so do your test runs in 3rd gear.

 

So when I am just cruisin in 3rd gear going 35 or so, just mash on the pedal. LEt off before it hits 15 psi? When happens if I mash on the pedal and it goes past 20?

Do this during the first 10 miles/10 minutes right?

How many times of getting on it and letting off did you get in?

Then once that 10 minutes is up I can go WOT to see where its at.

Less threads = more boost. More threads = less boost? You said its all in the preload though?

I plan on resetting the computer tomorrow and giving it 2 mm preload. How many thread were showing on yours? I have 6 right now showing.

thanks for the clarification.

There is so many variables and I just want to do it right.

 

Let off before or at 15psi. You can prevent it from going to 20+ psi, its all in the response. You hit it, get ready to get off the gas pedal immediately. You'll be on/off the gas pedal relieving the pressure before/at 15psi.

Correct. If there's a highway or back road somewhere by you its easier to do it on either or.

A few times... as many times I get in to do it. 10-15 times would probably be my average.

Yes, by then the pcm should of corrected itself and re-adjusted parameters.

Correct, more threads = less boost and less threads = more boost. The preload is too put tension on the spring, that's how you set your spike. You'll have to keep driving/adjusting to get it to where you want it.

By the time I was done tuning the s2 wga I think I was only showing 2-3 threads. Like i said everything wga is different so that may not work on yours.

No problem! I hope all goes well.

 

Thanks!

Only going to get up to 50 degrees today.

Weather hurt any of this tuning? I am guessing I will see lower boost of course. All I can do is keep trying and sucking up the gas. lol

 

Well.. I tried it 2 different times. 1st time:



I unplugged the Neg. terminal and took out the ASD relay fuse. Let the car sit for more than 30 minutes. Added about 2mm of preload as show. And only a couple threads. Right away I went cruisin, lucky enough for me I live out in the country. So I did 3rd gear. Went up to 13 or so and I let off. It went over 15 to 17 a couple of times but I ended up driving for around 20 minutes. Getting on it WOT and letting off. Mostly third gear but some in 4th. Computer never calibrated. I did a WOT run and it went past 20 psi easily... Fail.

So I let the car cool down and I unplugged the neg battery terminal and pulled the ASD fuse. Let it set for 40 minutes. I made it so I had 7 or 8 threads showing. No preload because its impossible to set since I had so many threads showing. More threads showing makes the WGA arm longer so when you put it on the close position of the flapper after the two nuts are loosened of course and tighten her down it doesn't put an preload.

did the exact same thing and made sure I didn't go past 15 psi this time around. Did all my WOT "pedal pushes" to around 13 or so psi. Drove for 16 minutes. Timed it. Did a WOT run, still past 20 psi. Fail.

=(

No idea what my other options are now. I remember reading a post by stowaway and this is what he said:

remove the heat shield

remove cotter pin on wga arm

loosen or remove 2 bolts holding wga to turbo

pull end of wga arm off pin on manifold

loosen nut on wga arm

turn end of wga arm to shorten or lengthen, as needed

tighten jam nut

put end of wga arm over pin in manifold

tighten 2 bolts holding wga to turbo

install cotter pin

Maybe my WGA is fubared? I bought it used but it looked brand spankin new with no marks anywhere. Not even on the adjustment nut. Like he never adjusted it or anything. Just slapped it on the car. He told me he only had it on for a few hundred miles and then got rid of it.

 

Odd, I never had to drive hundreds of miles for the pcm to re-caliberate itself and adjust. Unless the cold weather cold be playing a role.

Have you tried with no preload to see where it spikes to?

 

Well the second round I did it had no preload and had 7 or 8 threads showing. No way to have preload as I said above when there are that many threads showing due to the length of the arm getting longer.

It is currently 52 degrees.

Maybe the weather is playing a roll... Or maybe my other mods listed in bold on my original first post?

Ahhck.

Car is currently sitting with hood up to cool her down. lol

More info I found:

I guess its all in the preload.

And more! I understand it more after doing it.

 

When I was setting up my s2 wga on my s1 ecu even at a 0 preload I still spiked really high into the 20's (23-25 psi).

I would listen to the intake and you can actually hear the car tuning itself. I think it took mains at least 200 miles of rolling into boost and not going above 10 psi for all of the surge to be gone and the spike to be at reasonable levels. I am at about 150 miles with my agp and its still learning it. :shrug:

 

Odd, I just installed about a week ago a brand new AGP wga on an S1 SRT-4. Took me 30 min to tune it, went out for four runs on the 4th run I had it spiking 18psi and holding 15psi. This is after a PCM reset before the 1st run.

Same goes for my car and a few others I've worked on.