I've been asked how hard it is to change springs, if someone wants to use one set of springs for a firm ride on the street, and a softer set of springs for maximum weight transfer at the dragstrip. In the installation thread, we timed the process of removing the stock suspension, assembling the coilovers, and installing the coilovers. That took 45 minutes per side. But how long to chang just a spring after the coilovers have been installed? Here's the entire process for changing a spring: 1) Jack up the car, and remove one rear tire. 2) Using two 3/4" wrenches, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. 3) By hand (a glove helps) loosen the top spring mount enough to remove all spring tension, then keep loosening the spring until you can remove the lower cone shaped spring perch. This piece removes by hand - no tools required. 4) Now that there's no pressure on the shock, and nothing preventing it's movement, compress the shock all the way by hand. It helps to dial the compression damping to its lowest setting. 5) At this point, you can swivel the shock out of the way of the lower suspension arms and simply drop the spring out. 6) Immediately replace with your alternate spring, place lower shock mount back into the lower arm, install the bolt, and tighten it down. 7) Lift the spring up and out of the way so you can re-insert the lower spring perch. 8) Finally, tighten the upper spring perch by hand to your desired setting. 9) Remount the tire, and lower the jack. So how long did that take? I timed it tonight, starting after the tire was removed, and stopping when I was ready to reinstall the tire. Virtually everyone going to the lengths to change springs at the track will be changing from street tires to drag radials anyway. The additional step is the time from when the tire is removed until the tire is reinstalled. Time to change one spring: 4 minutes and 30 seconds. That's it. Earlier I had claimed 10 minutes. It doesn't take nearly that long.
Jmatt if I didn't have to spend 800$ today on a whole new tune and some other parts I was going to grab a pair. Sorry to both of us
Wanna sponsor the fastest 6.1 in the country,:moon:......Bwahahaha.......Jeeze I crack myself up:rofl::rofl:
Better class of staff!Oh yeah.....and I like the people too.Now if I could just figure out a way to get me a set of these coilovers!
Don't know if this has any relevance on LX cars... For the Mustangs we would just unhook or loosen the front anti-sway bar links at the track. Usually improved my 60 by .1 -.2.
Can't just remove the link's and zip tie the bar up while at the track? Ideal no- quick and easy- yes.
Not a bad idea, and I'll probably try it. Unfortunately, I don't think it makes much, if any, difference on our cars because with the independent rear suspension our cars launch almost perfectly level anyway. So long as the front end tries to launch perfectly level, the front sway makes almost no difference, other than the friction in the system.
I don't know if I agree. An anti-sway bar by design limits wheel travel. Anything that limits wheel travel will limit weight transfer. All vehicles lean to one side when launched hard due to the rotational force of the driveshaft thus unloading one side of the front suspension and compressing the other. An anti-sway bar will fight that thus limiting wheel travel and weight transfer. Hell..... I think I confused myself with that one. Anyway- works on Pony's- give it a shot.
Actually I think you would WANT the anti-sway bar for launching those cars that don't launch level. If you're unloading the front left corner then you will be loading the right rear corner. Ideally you want to load both rear corners. If the car launches level like our do then the front sway bar should have NO effect. Sway bars do limit wheel travel but they limit wheel travel RELATIVE to the wheel on the other side. There is no resistance if both wheels go up or down together. Now, due to rotational torque, on rear wheel drives, more power is directed to the right rear wheel than the left (at least with a regular rear end). So if you didn't have limited slip then it might help some to load the right rear corner more than the left rear corner. that's what I'm thinking.
Different cars reacts to different things. On solid rear axle pony car's, unhooking the front anti sway bar is one mod thats easy and appears to work. Makes for a interesting ride home too if you don't hook it back up before leaving the track. :dumb:
