Nathan- sorry about that last post. You got yours up before I finished mine. Wow. That sounded REALLY bad. LOL Will do. I don't see any of those that have an OFF as the lowest position of the switch. They are all ON. The LT-1531 could work- (ON)/NONE/OFF- but I fear the keyway will be backwards, and I need the keyway correct for the mounting of the safety cover. 1531-6-??-012....they only offer RED in the center position if you get RED in all the other positions. When the switch is off, I'd prefer the LED to be off as well. So damn close.... You're kickin' ass, Nathan!
That is the closest I could find so far. Hmmm..maybe aircraft.. Just to make sure about the switch: 15-20A / 12VDC SPST (could be DPST just spare contacts) Momentary action to "ON" (Normally open contacts that close on momentary (spring return) movement of switch) LED only "ON' during momentary closure?
That's what I thought too! They'd be perfect for something like "ENGINE START/RUN" or "PUMP START/RUN", and then have an LED indicator that tells you whatever you turned on is running. No such thing in aircraft. I've spoken with my neighbor (flies an A320 for United), and my friend (ex-US Airways; now flies a Global Express 5000 for The Limited). Neither of them have ever seen or heard of what I described. They think it'd be great, but....never seen one in the cockpit of an airplane. Very close. - 15-20A / 12VDC - SPST (could be DPST just spare contacts) - Momentary action to "ON" (Normally open contacts that close on momentary (spring return) movement of switch) - RED LED "ON" during momentary and 'neutral' (middle position). - NO LED in "OFF" position (all the way down). Oh, and I don't need 2000 of them. :grin: Only about 4-5.
I'm sure I've seen those type of switches on gas powered generators... Just not with the "running" light in the switch itself.
- 15-20A / 12VDC - SPST (could be DPST just spare contacts) - Momentary action to "ON" (Normally open contacts that close on momentary (spring return) movement of switch) - RED LED "ON" during momentary and 'neutral' (middle position). - NO LED in "OFF" position (all the way down). [/QUOTE] You describe the LED like the switch operation is ALMOST like a "SPDT Center Off" with spring return from one direction? HOWEVER....Read on Just to make sure we are on the same track: (By the way if you are using Windows Internet Explorer 7...just hold down the "Control" key when you click the link and it will open the link in another folder.....if you didn't know) Here is a description of MOST common switch types....but not yours as you will find out. http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/switch.htm SPST is one set of contacts that close when you activate the switch. This is not what you want...unless you want to use 2 switches. SPDT has three connecction that has a common (COM) connection and it closes from the center to either the "A" connection if you move the switch up or the down connection in the "B" direction. There is no center position. Then there is a variation of the SPDT called "SPDT Center Off" and this sound like the action you want SO.... you think you really want a "SPDT Center Off" more than a SPST or a SPDT.....but...not quite Wait....wait...I GET IT. D0 you want to use it like a starter switch (commonly called START/STOP)? IS this true? If that is true...it is a different beast . (AND it will be next to IMPOSIBLE to find in your deired specifications.....but it COULD be out there.) It is different because of how you think the contacts should work in the circuit you are controlling. What you want appears to be a switch that has one set of NO contatcts that close on momentary "UP" and a diffreent set of NC contacts that only break when you move the switch down...and..... they stay NC when you move the switch "UP". This makes it a variation of a "SPDT Centre Off". You want a common Start/Stop circuit in a switch...now comes the "relay" you spoke of.. Look only at the top "rung" of the circuit (shown at the bottom of the first page) and don't use "R1" (because we are not interested in the next "Rung" of the circuit) and "CON" is your relay. One set of the relay (DPDT) contacts is "Con" and the other set of contacts on "CON" is used to control your device (ie... a solenoid, fan, light,motor....etc) http://www.maintenanceworld.com/Articles/AndersonR/Safety-Circuits-%20Force-Guided-%20General-Purpose.pdf And want your switch to mimic the "Start" and Stop" buttons? It may be easier t use 2 switches to achieve this. These switches exist but I doubt seriously in your specifications relating to size and operation of contacts and LED....unless you use 2 SPST one of them momentary and one not.
Thanks Nathan. I only have one space for a single toggle switch, so 2 switches isn't really an option. This is the switch I'm trying to replace: (The RED LED indicates Fault; the GREEN LED indicates power) As you can see, it's gigantic. Not really dash friendly. LOL I don't need the Fault indication (the inverter has an audible Fault warning and is near enough to my ears). You're correct with the 'starter switch' thing. I'll try to describe switch operation: - UP POSITION: This is momentary (spring loaded to return to center). Not necessary but it'd be nice if the RED LED lights when contact is made. - CENTER POSITION: RED LED lights while the inverter is on. - DOWN POSITION: LED is off. Inverter is switched off. I understand it would be difficult for a SPST switch to pull off the needed function, but a SPDT would....with the 2nd 'throw' contacts being in charge of the LED. The good news is that the control board for the original membrane switch can be used. I'd be happy to get you pics of the board...if that would help at all.
Here's another possible switching setup with just an ON/OFF toggle: - UP POSITION: RED LED is on, but switch action is technically momentary. Possible with a latching relay (?). - DOWN POSITION: LED is off. Inverter is switched off. I have a latching relay here (DEI p/n 611T), but I'm not quite sure how to wire it up.....yet. :grin:
Is this the "latching relay" you have? http://www.dpcauto.com/products/1263 If so....there are other "latching relays" that wil be easier to work with. Here is an example but they may be able to be found for 1/2 this price. http://www.attf.info/a4757.htm
Not exactly. This is the one I have: DEI "Active" 5A Latching Relay Connection Colors: Red, Black, Yellow, Brown. Cost: $0.00 (given to me by a good friend who was also helping me with this switch dilemma).
I assume you want to control the 12VDC in? What is the 12VDC current load....it should be on the box. Why do you need the momentary function? Why not just a normal SPST switch controlling a relay that energizes the Inverter? You will have to have a relay because the inverter's input power requirements will probably be more than the switch can handle.
No. I'm trying to replace the membrane switch from the manufacturer with a toggle switch. http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showpost.php?p=65279&postcount=27 Note the RJ jack on the face of the inverter. That's where the original membrane switch plugs in.
If there is control board that uses a membrane switch... The switching could be at low level (5V) or TTL (transistor-transistor logic) and the control board communicates to the inverter the same way. You may not really have the ability to just use a switch tied to some of the wires on the RJ45 (Netowrk cable plug size) or RJ32 (Phone cable plug size) connector.... If this is how you plan on using the switch. You may have to use the board (remotely located of course) and solder leads across where the membrane switch is to bring them out to the switch you want to use. But the membrane switch does not appear to work like the switch you are looking for, it looks to be momentary only and is push on, push off? Have you contacted Vector about what you want to do?
Sorry I didn't finish my RJ description. It's an RJ-45. Vector is a Chinese company owned by Black & Decker. I did contact them about this. They don't have a frickin' clue. I asked for ANYONE with any technical support. They faxed me installation instructions. I have no problem using the membrane switch logic board (It's about the size of a quarter) in conjunction with a toggle switch (replacing their membrane switch). That was my original plan. The problem is that I can't find a toggle switch that's momentary and has an LED tip. :grin: EDIT- Here are some pics of the board on the membrane switch: BACK: FRONT: Not exactly a Cray. LOL
No cray for sure..not even Commodore 64....lol. Yea....nothing fancy here. Resistors appear to be for LEDs. The membrane switch appears to only be momentary on..True...with closure from blue to grn/yw? If so, this means its function is push on/push off and it is driving a latching relay in the Inverter. Have you opened the Inverter to see what is in there? Black wire is for power on LED and red wire is for fault LED with grn/yw wire as common. Am I seing this correct? However it appears that your switch only needs to be momentary SPST....the operation of the LED is an other issue... if you want it to be part of the switch. It reallly appears that if you want too use an LED it will require seperate wires, according to what I see from the board. It seems you could just solder leads where the membrane switch goes and run those leads to your switch. I don't see how you can use a "SPST center off"...you only need a momentary SPST to duplicate the membrae switch (If the switch is really just a push on/push off function).....but I can see why powering the LED is the major issue.
Nathan- You're pretty much correct on all of that. - The "GRN/YW" is just green. The jacket is so thin, the braiding of the wire actually shows through...esp. in pictures where the flash is used. LOL - The membrane switch is Push ON/Push OFF. It's momentary. I believe that the PCB can control the LED in the toggle switch. That would be an easy one to get. If the toggle switch is Momentary SPDT, I can use the 2nd 'throw' on the switch to light the LED. I have not pulled the inverter apart (yet) because it took me 4 months to get this replacement. I only got it back about 2 weeks ago. Oddly enough, the switch jack on the first one I purchased was faulty. That made for some extremely frustrating testing. :grin: If it's necessary, I'll crack into it tomorrow and get the wiring for the switch jack. To be honest, I doubt it's anything fancy.
I would like to know if there is a relay inside that will probably be Latching. There must be something fancy there...at least for the fault light. See if you can get a picture of the circuit/wiring from inside the inverter.
