Maintenance plan ran out. Going to change my own oil

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Quick, Nov 2, 2011.

  1. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    (2) gallons 5w/40 Mobil 1 Turbo Truck Diesel Oil - $59.61

    (4) Bosch D3402 Distance Plus Oil filters - $10.49 each but they're running a $5 mail-in rebate (limit 4 per household). Got 'em yesterday. They're shorties. Might go with the long ones down the road.

    (1) Fumoto F-103N drain plug (apparently the wrong one) - $27
    (1) Fumoto F-106N drain plug w/lock clip and tubing (apparently the right one) - $30

    No tax or shipping on anything.

    Dealer quoted me $120 (maybe it was $110?) but Chrysler is now sending them Pennzoil for our cars. Probably nothing wrong with that but... and there is the additional cost. Didn't think to ask them for a quote if I supplied my own stuff. Going to do the first one myself anyway to put the Fumoto plug on there. San Jose garbage will pick up motor oil for free so I don't have to haul it a mile to the Autozone.

    Minus the startup costs will be about $57.65, a beer, and about 45 minutes each change here on out.

    Only thing that occured to me was that the Fumoto definitely isn't magnetic. I wonder if the stock plug is? Can't imagine it does all that much anyway unless you're looking for large bits... lol, kind of like an early notice of doom. "yep, it's broke and it's bad. it just doesn't know it yet".
     
  2. Rec 26

    Rec 26 ...a tremor in the MOPAR

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    I would never use Penzoil nor allow Penzoil to be added to any of my rides. Personnal pref. Normally what I do with my SRT is buy the oil and filter and pay the dealer like $8 to change it. That's if I'm lazy. As for the type of oil I use on mine... I stick with 0w-40 Mobil 1. As for the stock plug being magnetic... I don't remember to be honest with you. Haven't even had a need to change it yet.
     
  3. TNCHARGER

    TNCHARGER Moderator

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    Sounds like an echo....




    ...
     
  4. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    well he was a spammer... lol
     
  5. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    Stock drain plug isn't magnetic.

    Let us know how you like the Fumoto drain valve dumahicky. I like the concept, just unsure about trusting a valve to retain such a vital liquid to the life of an engine. Lots of road hazards out there that the valve or valve lever arm to catch on and I may never know until it's too late....Just my paranoia maybe.
     
  6. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Well, it's made of brass and pretty substantial. If you hit something that was going to knock the valve off I suspect it would do some serious damage to your oil pan as well in the plug area. Also our plugs are pretty much horizontal and I don't expect it to be much lower (if at all) than the bottom of the pan. Have to see when I get it in there. ...and you still have your belly pan right?
     
  7. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    Sure do, in the garage attic. :)

    I understand what your saying though, but my car and yours are set up quite different. Also, we have a ton of road construction going on in BR since forever (seems never ending). I've had my share of bottoming out, even have some road rash on the pan itself!
    Good luck with it, and give a review later...i'de be interested.
     
  8. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Not this weekend, probably next. I'll see if I can manage to take pics under there showing exposure and maybe even manage to measure how much clearance if any is lost. The valve itself is a ball valve. The lever moves over and down to lock. Spring holds it down. Also got the safety clip. Even if the sping failed I doubt the lever would/could work it's way open. With the safety clip on there, no way. You need big friggin' pliers to squeeze the clip open to get it on and off (it's like a mini squeeze/spring steel type hose clamp). So it's only a matter of if there is any way to hit the valve and rip it (and probably the drain plug bung) out. review coming in a couple of weeks...
     
  9. NetNathan

    NetNathan Not the Momma

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    I am waiting to see how this drain valve fits and if it can be "scrapped" off.

    Where did you find 5W-40 turbo diesel Mobil 1 locally for that cheap? It was not around when I got my oil change. I also looked for the new 5w-40 Mobil 1 ESP. It is a different compound than the 5w-40 turbo diesel truck Mobil 1.

    How ever my oil change is over. I could find good prices on oil (even found Mobil 1 for $6.95 a quart), but shipping charges wrecked the deal ($28.00 shipping on the $6.95 quart). I think there is a shipping charge on oils (due to flammability?) that jacks the shipping costs.
    However I found a Goodyear shop here that did the full change (Mobil 1 0W-40 oil and filter) for $89.00.


    ..
     
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2011
  10. Cheatek

    Cheatek SRT once, SRT always

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    Alright Mr. "More even and simultaneous combustion", first off where'd you get everything for no tax and no shipping?? This is CA, they tax us even when we don't buy anything, lol.

    2nd, you sure about that truck oil, I know we talked about this before but you're positive it's ok to use? I'm gonna get the Pennzoil out of my car as soon as I decide on an alternative, I'd go Mobil 1 but don't want to drop to 0 weight and have possible oil squirter noise. I'm not sure about this truck oil though, I know you wouldn't use it if it wasn't ok but idk. I suppose it's ok for the 6.4 as well right?

    3rd, if you did have a dealer like Normandin do it they should only charge you 20 bucks labor (that's what Hans said it was the last time he had his done there).

    Finally, I just can't see you crawling around under your car all the time old man, I bet you do this once, maybe twice before you're dealer bound. :)

    And when you wanna come check out my car, I thought you'd be knocking on my door long ago! :)
     
  11. NetNathan

    NetNathan Not the Momma

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    The fact that it is truck oil does not bother me.
    It is because it is listed only as an oil for diesel engines.

    There is another new oil...Mobil 1 ESP Formula M 5W-40... which is formulated for better "Emmision System Protection".
    It is listed for both gasoline and diesel engines. It was not easy to find when I had my oil changed.
    http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_ESP_Formula_M_5W-40.aspx#

    Product data sheets:

    Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40:
    http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_Turbo_Diesel_Truck_5W-40.aspx

    ESP Formula M 5W-40 - Emission System Protection:
    http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_ESP_Formula_M_5W-40.aspx

    ..
     
  12. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Why Amazon of course. I think they are caving in but no tax so far and the oil and filters qualified for super saver (free) shipping (over $25 of qualifying order... yeesh, where have you been).

    I think so. Owner's manual calls for API SM/CF full synthetic.
    This is
    ACEA E7/E5
    API CJ-4,SM,SL/SJ

    Doughnut has
    API CJ-4,CI-4,CH-4,SM CI-4 PLUS

    So maybe a bit lower on ZDDP? but boat loads of TBNs.

    Maybe... We'll see. I got to do it first time to get that fumoto valve on there. And I'll probably keep doing it. Not having someone else putting it on a lift and fooling with it is worth a whole lot and I don't mind crawling under there just to look around every now and again. Heh, I got ramps remember.

    It's sure as hell not because I haven't wanted to. Probably going to be 2 weekends. I'll get a hold of you.
     
  13. StevoSRT

    StevoSRT Moderator

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    I really want to know what you think of this plug when you get it in. I want to go for something like this and will be doing so next oil change for the truck and the Car.
     
  14. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    I got the plug. Two of them actually -- ordered the wrong one some months ago. Heavy duty brass. Ball valve that operates fairly stiffly. Only downside I can see (and have read in posts) is that the hole is about the size of a pencil or maybe just a bit larger (maybe 1/4" ID). I can see it's going to take a little while to drain almost 2 gallons through it. I expect a few minutes before it slows to a drip. I got the model with the nipple on it (nipple is same size hole) so you can stick a piece of tubing on it. 3/8" ID tubing. People worry about something catching on the lever and opening it while driving... I don't think so. You have to move the lever up (against spring pressure) out of the slot and then rotate. For the paranoid or off roaders they have a safety clip (spring clamp). ZERO chance of operating it wilth the clip on it and ZERO chance of the clip coming off accidently.

    I'm guessing with it installed, given where the plug is, there is almost no chance you're going to break the valve off either. About the only scenario I can thing of is:

    Get over parking block that you run the car up onto resting on the oil pan -- this would be after you destroyed your facia on the way there. As the car (and pan) continue over the parking block the end of the pan drops off the edge of the block and the weight of the car is now resting on the valve. This might result in ripping the valve out of the drain plug threads or the whole bung out of the pan.

    I'll take pics of the valve tonight. The storm that was supposed to come through Saturday got downgraded and should be out of here Friday so I'll take pics of the install this weekend. I'm thinking I'll try for camera shots straight across the bottom of the car along with others.
     
    Last edited: Nov 10, 2011
  15. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Ok... did it. LOTs of pics so these are just the valve and then next post is the oil change.

    Good pics here http://www.fumotousa.com/ 'cause I have such a crappy camera (I'm still waiting for you guys to take up a collection and get me a Cannon T3i SLR...)

    Kit here:
    [​IMG]

    Opening is 1/4" to 5/16". Hole through ball valve is same size (no further restriction).
    [​IMG]

    Lever in open position. You have to lift up against the spring pressure and then rotate it 45*.
    [​IMG]

    With the safety clip on. It sits in that slot the lever would have to travel to open.
    [​IMG]

    With the tube pressed on. It's thick walled vinyl tubing. Can't imagine needing a clamp unless you left it on there permanently. (3/8" ID)
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Whoo hoo, Oil change time! This is the easiest (well, I did have to take out 4 bolts to remove the rear belly pan), most convenient and cleanest oil change I've ever done. It's every bit as easy as changing the brake pads without all that heavy lifting and jacking for the wheels :). Every other car or truck I've owned the oil drains onto the cross member, or hoses and harneses and the oil filter is sideways or at an angle.

    It's been raining here so it's dirty under there. Best I can figure those gouges on the belly pan skids could have only got there from someone driving it over lift chocks.

    Here's the stuff.
    [​IMG]

    I love these. Touches on the way up but not on the way down. go figure.
    [​IMG]

    Rear belly pan tucks in under the front belly pan about 2" and those 2 bolts hold both of them to the cross member.
    [​IMG]

    Rear belly pan off. Drain plug is hanging right out there.
    [​IMG]

    I wonder if they put those green lines on there at the factory so you don't go too far over torqueing things.
    [​IMG]

    Kyle, you scraped your oil pan?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    It's coming off here but I use it to put them back on too. If you're reaching up there twisting with your hand it's hard to tell when you get 3/4 to 1 turn on them. With a ratchet handle you can get it perfect. Besides, you could get tennis elbow or something. Ok, I did get some oil on my hand and wrist cause I just broke it loose with the wrench and spun it off with my hand. I think it's what's in the tube it screws onto. Next time I'll use the ratchet. Just get oil on the wrench that way.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I did put the safety clip on there. Not because I thought it needed it... but I paid $3 bucks for that and it seemed like the best place to keep it. I don't know, maybe if that belly pan flaps up and down at speed it would be banging against that lever and by some outside chance manage it open it? I don't think so.
    [​IMG]

    Belly pan back on.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 14, 2011
  17. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    Nice job Dave...i like!
    And yes, I have road rash on the bulge where the plug goes (most lower part of the pan). I know when it happened, and I was doing 120MPH when it did. Had good empty interstate in front of me early one Saturday morning and decided to have some fun. Dropped the hammer for a while and saw up ahead some construction coming up, and slowed down to 120 (hehe). What I wasn't ready for was an abrupt road elevation change of about 3-4 inches...they put the "Bump" sign about 10 feet before the actual "bump" and when I saw it, it was already to late...instinct said hit the brakes, when I did that, my nose dove and I scraped pretty good. I actually lookied in my rear view expecting to see car parts smoke and oil spewing, but saw nothing. I pulled over to inspect and saw the damage. Next oil change, i'll snap a pic of it and post. First I gotta drive the damn thing. It's been about 3-4 months since I even cranked it up. Kids, wife and job have been keeping me very busy this year.
     
  18. NetNathan

    NetNathan Not the Momma

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    So the valve is actually covered by the belly pan? Should be safe there.

    I an't believe how unscratched your belly pan and fascia are.
    Nice job of super safe parking and going thru dips..

    ..
     
  19. Cheatek

    Cheatek SRT once, SRT always

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    Great write up Dave, as always.:good:
     
  20. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Yes, pan goes at least a few inches past the valve. Impossible for anything to snag the lever. The pan is not completely rigid so I suppose it would be possible for it to get pushed up and contact the lever but extremely unlikely it would push it out of the notch and then rotate it.

    I was kind of lamenting how tore up they were :). C'mon Nathan, it was Momo that high centered his ride... bwahahaha.

    Thanks.

    Heh! all you guys that were passing the plate and collecting for the "Let's buy Quick a decent camera (Ti3)" fund can just send the cash directly to me. I emptied the kids' Xmas present fund and bought AreTee's old 40D. yea!