Brake Pads

Discussion in 'Wheels, Tires, Suspensions & Brakes' started by arad, Aug 16, 2011.

  1. arad

    arad New Member

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    I'll be in need of brake pads soon and was wondering what everyone is using. I had Satified Gransport (Front - GS6 D1149, Back - GS6 D1053) pads and they were low dust and non squeling but can't locate both anymore. I want to get similair characteristics. Any suggestions and where to get them. I have a 2006 300c srt8. Thanks
     
  2. King Savage

    King Savage Nasty Canasta

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    I am using brakes from Dave Zeckhausen...and haven't changed pads in 20k miles. Also, I got these to get rid of the dust from the stock pads. I have never looked back, although I am sure there are other great options out there for brake pads.

    http://www.zeckhausen.com/Dodge/Charger_SRT8.htm
    Centric posi-quiet
     
  3. 1bad4dr

    1bad4dr Mr. Meany

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    :stupid:
     
  4. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    I put those on at 5,500. About 38,000 now... (I should probably take a close look at them). You're not going to want to go to the track with these but they're fine for the street and you just can't get less dust.
     
  5. arad

    arad New Member

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    Thanks for the replys. I don't really go on the track, so they has do the trick.
     
  6. TNCHARGER

    TNCHARGER Moderator

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    Yep....put these on all 3 SRTs I have own(ed).....you will lose about 80% of the dust and still have great stopping power for the street..
     
  7. Dookie

    Dookie Foe twenny sics

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    I've been using Centric Posi Quiets Ceramic for about 25k miles. Low low dust, no squealing, and low cost...when I need to replace, i'll go right back with them.

     
    Last edited: Aug 24, 2011
  8. Bullishman13

    Bullishman13 SRT8 Noob with a passion

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    I'm resurrecting this thread with a few questions.

    What is a good way to visually inspect rotors for wear? Mine are just short of 27K.

    I'm looking hard at the centric posi quiet ceramics for front and rears. How are they on rotors?

    I can deal with washing off dust opposed to replacing rotors.

    Last one may be me being critical of the dealership. Of course they stated the rotors should be replaced along with the pads because of vibration. This is the same dealership that ordered the wrong crossmember for the transmission. Then proceeded to tell me that the proper one was on back order. Of course they had it for a week already.

    Again, Speedlogix came through in a hurry and hooked me up.

    Thanks ahead of time.
     
  9. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Can't really. They need to be mic'd for thickness and checked on a machine for true. Visually you might see large grooves and maybe uneven break material deposits.

    They are very easy on rotors (and about as low dust as you can get).

    Yea, maybe. Replaced? They should be checked to see if they can be turned. Generally speaking you can turn rotors once. Of course it takes certain equipment to turn slotted rotors and the dealer probably doesn't have that (or do rotor turning at all -- sent out or not). If a rotor is out of true it probably can't be turned anyway. If it has minor grooving you might be able to take care of that (grooving isn't really a problem though... just some minor loss of surface). The main advantage of turning is to remove the surface and the brake pad material that has bonded from the previous pads. You should be able to do a decent job of that by bedding the new pads properly if it's not too uneven. Assuming everything is pretty normal you can just replace the pads and bed them properly. They won't last as long as the first set (if you replace with the same pads you had before) but it's not a big deal.

    You're replacing your pads yourself right? If you can jack up the car and get the wheel off your're about 70% done and past the hard part.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011
  10. Bullishman13

    Bullishman13 SRT8 Noob with a passion

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    I'm considering it since I installation alone here starts at around $75. Even heard as high as $150.

    Found the caliper spreading tool on Zeckhausen's webpage. Figured why not. I'm keeping the car and once paid off I'm considering it for track use (circuit) and would need the ability to do it myself and quicker.

    I have to buy a floor jack, stands, and eventually a large enough compressor and impact wrench. Of course this is dependent on my deployments (more money) and the wife entering the workforce sometime.

    Too many wants, not enough money or space for these things.

    Thanks for the feedback.
     
  11. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    What?

    You do NOT need a caliper spreader. If you have a grip stonger than an 8 year old you don't need that.

    You do NOT need a compressor or impact wrench... Only once, due to bizarre circumstances, some tech started walking towards my wheels with an impact wrench. I "intervened" before he got within 20' of the car :). Use a lug nut hand wrench -- you should use a torque wrench when putting your wheels back on (110 ft/lbs). Everybody should own one of those -- $88 Craftsman on sale.

    A floor jack is handy but any jack will do.
    Jack stands are always a good idea but not required unless you actually need to get body parts *under* the car. You can do this job without putting anything at risk.
    $40 for a low profile floor jack bundled with 2 jack stands on sale at Kragens.
    Total floor space required: 2'X4'

    Tools for the job:
    Jack
    Jack stand (only need one --- maybe) .
    Torque wrench and lug nut sized deep well socket
    Regular ole hammer (not really required, you could use a small rock)
    Punch to tap on the drift pins to get them started. could substitute short, sturdy piece of coat hanger or a large nail.

    You can dew it!

    But $75 is a great deal. They charge that much just to jack up 4 corners one at a time.
     
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2011