... You should wait until they get everything sorted out. Then let Cam try it out (probably be up to version 3 or 4 by then). I didn't see where he listed all the settings for bone stock... If it was me I'd set everything to stock and just use the paddle/button shifting part of it? I mean it sounds like he has the skills and did a good job with the signals and everything. But I didn't see anything as far as being a transmission guy or knowing what all the side effects would be. Communications, corner cases, mechanical effects, yada, yada. Maybe he does, but I'd think you'd need pretty detailed information on the internal programming of a bunch of control modules and their interactions.
That sounds like a good idea Dave. I already had the AMG paddle shifters and can just disengage the TranZformer without it affecting the paddle shifters and let the big brains figure things out. Hell, I just got my Pedders bushings installed a week ago so I will just enjoy those for a while....until my Nitto NT05's (275's) I just ordered get in and installed. Cam, My next plan is the Getrag with 3.73 gears, half-shafts, and drive shaft. You guys can install those correct? Should I order through you, or go through someone else?
I installed mine a few days ago. It has been wet out, so I haven't been able to go WOT with it. I have mine set to 50 upshift firmness in drive and 75 firmness in Autostick, scaled with throttle of 50% in Autostick and scaled 30% in Drive. For down shift i left it the way it came at 20% firmness on both Auto and Drive. I'm not getting any weird clunks or sounds in upshift or downshift, just quicker firmer shifts upshifts that ramp up in firmness as I apply more throttle, up to 100% of firmness dialed in at WOT. I don't autocross race or even drive like that, so i really don't need firmer and quicker downshifts. i'll probably just set downshifts to it's lowests available setting or 0. The SWS aspect is cool as hell too, although it has a bug in it that will be addressed in the next firmware update. Right now, it works, but if my radio is on, the volume increases/decreases also...which it isn't supposed to do. They best thing about this thing is, it's tuneable...you can get real aggressive with it or just dial in a little better than stock and turn it on/off with a double tap of ESP. For everyday driving on a work commute, i'll just turn it off. When i go to the track, and want neck snapping quick shifts...it's there with a push of a button... Faster shifts with higher pressure are BETTER for tranny clutches than slow with lower pressure causing slip (which i sometimes feel when i do a WOT run in 2-3 shift) I would think this similar to blue top solenoids or upgraded valve body...Right/Wrong??? I plan on playing with it more as weather permits, but right now I love it.
brother....... i shit you not, i was just cursing rick out not but one minute ago....... not really sure what was written there, but it must have been pretty important for me not to be able to read it......oh: thanks rick....ya dik!!! :thongue2:
The level off knowledge is astonishing to me! Hat off! And you still get the humor to go with it. Fredrikopcorn:
I'm thinking they put clutches in there for a reason... Surely part of that is for driver comfort but I suspect not all of it. You might save clutches but you're transfering that impact/force somewhere else. (and I didn't get the impression that he really knows how all the messages/control modules work as a system). I'd think so, sort of, kind of, maybe only part of it... but I have no clue. How come I haven't seen a single transmission guy post anything about the effects/trade offs? (ok, I only read about every 10th page on the thread ). Maybe it is just a matter of a little more wear and tear on mounts and joints and stuff for tremendous shifts.
LOL....I responded saying it is not the same "bump" as I get with firm up/down shifts. It is a clunk that all would be saying "that can't be good". Again, it happens as the car squats when going WOT. Kyle, do you have an after market transmission?
No Rick, 100 percent stock tranny, and TCM. 42k miles on it and have done 2 fluid changes. How do you have it set up in the ZPU? Scaling? Firmness?
I did four iterations yesterday. Run/Upshift/Downshift/Scaling/Shift RPM Drive #1 / 40 / 10 / 40 / 6000 Autostick #1 / 75 / 20 / 40 / 6000 Drive #2 / 75 / 30 / 40 / 6200 Autostick #2 / 75 / 30 / 30 / 6200 Drive #3 / 50 / 20 / 40 / 6100 Autostick #3 / 75 / 25 / 40 / 6100 Drive #4 / 45 / 15 / 45 / 6100 Autostick #4 / 75 / 20 / 40 / 6100
I assume you get the noise regardless of setting? Only time it goes away is when you turn the TranZformer off? Is there a setting that is worse than others? If so, I'll set mine the same and try to recreate, to see if it's isolated to just your car. Have you ruled out mechanical failure of mounts, cv's, etc...?
Yes, it's only with the TranZformer on. I tried Joe's suggestion of putting it in 1st and getting up to 3k rpms, let of throttle, get back into it, let off....and see if it makes the clunk. No joy!! Couldn't reproduce it. I hope it is a CV or U joint...I think! How much can that cost to replace??
I'd take it to the place that installed your pedders and have them check it. Tell them it clunks when shifting when you increase the shift firmness. Probably just as likely, if not more likely, to be a suspension component.
While pressing the brake pedal at idle, I put the car in Neutral for a few seconds, shifted into reverse...."clunk". Not as pronounced as it is a WOT...which I think would make sense. I put it back in neutral for a couple seconds, shifted into drive...no noise. I'm thinking about jacking the rear end up here in a bit and playing with the drive shaft (that just doesn't sound right...lol) and seeing if there is any play at the U joint.
