i'm using pac racing valve springs that i got from ppp. did not install the springs that is the only thing i didn't do ****what pressure would suggest Cam*****
Which Pac's did you get and how long ago did you get them. If they are more then a year old, get rid of those POS's.
i got them one month ago dont know which ones i looked on the box and it doesnt say ppp matched theme to my cam if there are better ones let me know
Do you have access to a spring pressure checking tool?. I bet your machine shop may have one if you don't. My suggestion is to check with the stock damper installed. Start at a 1.800 installed height. You want your seat pressure from 100lbs to 135lbs. For a NA ride, and depending upon the cam profile, I'd stick with the 120+ range, PPP cams normally have a pretty agressive ramp. BUT, make sure and check pressure at .100, .200 and especialy .550 and .600 lift. Try not to exceed 400lbs at .600. Also if you can provide me with the lobe lift measurement, I can get you a little more dialed in on your over the nose pressure and with knowing the values installed at 1.800, can make a decent judgement call on the installed height. Another thing you have to check is get yourself some checker springs and measure retainer to seal clearance, very important with a PPP cam. When they designed those cams, it was based off a 1.6 rocker ratio. Problem is that's not the case. Also you're more than welcome to send me a spring for measurements here too. Just cover shipping, that's all.
wow thanks i'm not at my office soon as get there l'll have some numbers for you.....out doing honeydew's to day and you know how that go's:thanks:
Hand turned wheel?? In 1970 they did have piston ring grinding setups (but not easy to find for rental). I am kind of anal retentive on some details. I did it with a hand file. Every ring custom fit to its own bore. yes....pita So 16 rings....put each in vise.... file a little...... stick in bore.... measure gap......take out..... file some more...put back in. Then place ring on piston......Start over. Used an Ohaus quad beam scale (wonder why I had this) to balance the pistons and rods to....at least I had an electric grinder for this. ...
That's what I meant about being a time consuming deal....My ordeal was BY HAND...a grinding wheel clamped to a bench and ground down with ME, as power source...Grind...install, check, grind, install, check, grind install, check...it was, ummm, fun. :bigwink:
I figure what i have done is a pitance to just the amount of 392 and 426 enigines built here. However I think the tools/accessories to do so are easier to get and better. I was kind of searching for the right street racer. These are the cars that I actually went into the enigine during owning or doing the engine work. How about... Not counting the ones done during gas/diesel engine class at tech school.... (1) 327/375 mouse motorfor a Hard top Corvair. (not mine....too wicked for the street anyway) (1) 327/375 mouse motor for '55 2 door shoebox (traded for '68 Camaro after on enjoyng about 3 months) (1) 396/375+ Rat motor with an M22 Muncie for a street driven '68 Camaro with a glass front cap. Ths one was running and was driven for about 100 miles but I traded for a 340 Dodge Dart with a beautiful custom paint job. (1) '69 440 6-pack/? for the '69 Dodge Dart I kept the Dart the longest. It started life as a 340 swinger. Then the mid 70's came around and I tore apart the Dart took the enigne/trans wiht me when I moved to California. ..
