Need guidance on srt4 big front mount intercooler

Buddy of mine locally wants our club to install his BFMIC on his SRT-4 anyone that can give us some tips it would be appreciated. Right now he is stock.

 

big screws....... hahahahahaha

if it is a unit of similar design, it shoudl not be a big deal..... i guess the first thing i would look at are the connection couplers from the stock tubing to the new fmic. not a real expert with the 4's, but i can't see it being a big deal.

 

http://srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14665&highlight=BFMIC

Search is always a good tool. :grin:

Having him join the forum is another good tool. :flowers:

 

What type of intercooler is it?

If its made to fit the Neon SRT-4, like actually listed for a Neon SRT-4 then it should be just a direct fit with little to no modifications. The stock intercooler hoses will fit just fine atleast they should.

There's 4 studs on the frame with nuts that hold the intercooler.

Here's some tips/thoughts...

The hotside hose (passenger side)
-Some intercoolers need to be spaced out, you do this by putting washers on the studs the intercooler mounts on. Try to install the intercooler first without washers. Sometimes it fits just fine but the hotside hose is rubbing up against the A/C compressor and will eventually rub a hole. If its rubbing or this isn't clearance from the hotside hose, then washers need to be used on the studs where the intercooler mounts to space it forward.

You mount the intercooler first then install the hoses.

Complete front bumper removal is needed and since its a BFMIC the factory crash bar needs to be removed as well. I don't recall the size bolts on the crash bar but for the front bumper you will need (8mm or 5/16 socket) (10mm socket) (rachet extensions) (star bit - don't recall the size - for the screws on the fender guard (2 on each side at the ends of the bumper). You will need to remove the headlights first to get to the nuts that hold the bumper to the fenders (3 on each side). To remove the headlights its 8mm or 5/16 bolts (2 on each headlight) that need to be removed as well as the 3 top screws located in the center along the top of the bumper (above the front emblem and bumper nostrils). You pull the center ends of the front bumper forward while try to pull (maneuvor sp?) the headlights out. If the bottom splash guard is present below the front bumper those screws need to be removed as well (they are 8mm or 5/16). I think I covered most of the removal.

 

The intercooler on Nevin's car isn't the common aftermarket intercooler used on most SRT-4's. The most common aftermarket ones have similiar endtanks to the stock ones. Like so:

 

blah blah blah... lolololol

Just using Nev's pix as an example... Yours are better though.

 

:ronlove:

 

< wishes he had a CTI instead of a MPX

 

The hotside pipe is a BEE-YOTCH to put back on.....I'm jus' sayin'.

I would recommend new clamps too. Don't re-use the cheap worm clamps from the factory.

 

T-bolt clamps are your best friend

 

Ahhh....I forgot what they were called....lulz...

Thanks.

 

T-bolt clamps suck. I've had my personal experience with them. I have proved it time and time again to locals that they suck. Majority have switched to worm clamps.

Worm clamps are your best friend if you actually tighten them with a socket and wratchet. If you do it by just a flat head then you FAIL and are just asking for leaks or a pipe popping off.

I've got several boost leak tests done under my belt now and everytime there's any sort of leak on any intercooler pipe the usual culprit is the damn T-bolt clamps. I replace them with worm clamps and the leak never comes back and never will

Hello, my name is Jesus, and I am the king of boost leak testing :tip:

 

Funny you say that. I'm still running my original clamps from factory and have 64k miles on them.
No leaks here :whistle:

 

Worm clamps suck I had nothing but trouble with them they always seem to break on me using a socket while boost leak testing the worst one was charge pipe to turbo so now j have all t-bolt clamps and on the only one the I have to touch every once in awhile is the hotside to fmic due to it being oval but when it does leak it's very very little to where it doesn't effect anything if it was round it would never leak like the others

 

I had 50K+ on my T-bolts...no leaks.

But, then again, I don't have the neon anymore, so......

 

everytime i used a worm clamp the fucker would leak over time....no matter how far it was tightened(no i did not strip them) i've had t-bolts for 40k miles and have for the most part never had to touch them.

 

Here it is (dog not included)

 

Looks like a Quickwhips/MPx/etc.

So it will bolt up like I mentioned. On the ends of the endtanks on those tabs looks like there is no holes. You will need to drill holes on those tabs to mount the intercooler. Make sure to measure so it doesn't end up crooked.

 

hahahaha agreed. my IC is a not so good example and Jesus is correct its not the common style out there.

Although mine is unique and came as a kit. :grin:

 

Hey guys I finally made it over here..

Thanks Wade for posting up some help for me!!!

Thanks for all the info guys and keep the help coming in!!!:mains: