Hi everybody, I need help on an alarm system. Those who know, my car was recently broken into and I need a better alarm system. Is there any alarm systems that are reasonably priced that can page me when the car is being broken into or page me when the alarm is going off? Any input will help. I don't understand alarm systems very well. I live on the 3rd floor of my apartment complex and I couldn't hear my car alarm. So something that could page me or a fob that will warn me will be helpful. Thanks everybody.
Viper Alarms are the only ones I trust. They are a little pricey, but you get what you pay for. Next in line would be a Clifford system.
Viper/Clifford/etc. are all made/owned/etc. by Directed Electronics (they bought Clifford a few years ago). Clifford stuff used to be somewhat better but the last of Clifford stuff that was actually made by Clifford people/company isn't any more. It's all Directed Electronics and they put a different name on different sets of their products. So... the top of their line is Viper == Clifford (don't even know if they use the Clifford name any more). Then you should spend at least as much time if not more to pick your installer. Once you pick your stuff then installation is everything. There's CrimeStoppers, Ungo, and maybe 1 or 2 more but they all make about the same quality stuff when you get to their top-of-the-line. Directed is the 2-ton gorilla in the industry so with them you have every option/add-on you can imagine. For what I recommended on your break-in thread you'd be looking at about $1500 to under $2000 installed. It's worth it. For nothing else other than the peace of mind that you're going to know if , when, and where something happens. Being the conservative kind of guy I am, I decided to go with as unintrusive installation as possible with respect to the car's electronics/bus/etc. The car's factory system is untouched. The only intersection with the alarm and car's stuff is the starter kill. On the alarm I did NOT hook up: auto/remote door locks auto/remote windows auto/remote starter Downside is that I have to use both the original key fob and the alarm pager/remote. but... I'm pretty well assured the alarm won't screw with car and the car won't screw with the alarm. What I went with (they probably have newer/different stuff now): Clifford 50.5x main unit (1 mile (3?), 900Mhz, spread spectrum, 2 way remote with lcd display. Comes with 2 stage impact sensor, 2 stage digital tilt sensor, door/hood/trunk pins. Has the door locks and windows controls but I didn't have those hooked up. Added glass break sensor, 2 stage peripheral sensor and 210C Matrix GPS unit (does all kinds of stuff and is a system on it's own that has a tie-in to the alarm system). Clifford doesn't do the service anymore and that's handled by MobilIQ now.
When you get that long range 2-way pager that takes a AAA battery... use the lithium batteries, they last 2 or 3 months. The regular alkaline batteries last 2 or 3 weeks...
Ungo... is made by Viper... 100%!!! How do I know this??? I used to work for Clarion and was there when they decided to stop making there crappy alarms and go with Viper... Well it is not Viper guts but it is Python, which is DEI... samething I have a Ungo with a 2-way remote control and it is not a mile range... more like 1/4 mile when there is nothing around and the skies are clear... if you are around buildings or a heavy overcast day... the range will go down... If you want a Ungo SR9000, I can get it to you at employee price plus shipping... I can let you know the price on Monay when they get back to the office... If I had to get a new alarm and had an iPhone... I would get the new Viper SmartStart system... http://www.viper.com/SmartStart/
Well if you know how to probe wires and use a multimeter... I am sure that you can do it... but if you have never done one before... I would let a pro do it... Let me know what city you are in and I might be able to find a good install shop around you... but labor can be around $150 and up for a remote start and alarm...
I think I'd get a GPS unit instead. Lot more function and you can still control everything and get notifications over your phone (any phone).
They're not that easy to do right. Lot of experience to know where to choose for placement of components in particular cars. Then there's the wiring and trouble shooting. Soldered connections are best but they're more permanent if you have to disconnect them temporarily. It's also often the case that the detailed installation instructions and bulletins are only available to installers or you have to go through a bit of work to get them. Tapping into our electronics and/or bus is not for the weak hearted either. But if you go with an Ungo (not my first choice) it sounds like Albert should be able to take care of that for you. I didn't pick an Ungo because of the options/features and the way they worked. Personal preference. I think Ungo was rated right up there as far as quality goes.
Well Ungo wouldn't been choice back in 2002 either because Clarion made it up in Northern California and then made by DLC also. Then they had a choice back in 2003 either sell the name to DEI or pay them to make the product. They choose to have DEI make it for them. Then the product did a 180 in product issues. The issues were gone... well as gone as any Viper out there. Plus I got mine for FREE since I worked there and installed it. As for doing it yourself... if you have some common sense and have the right tools. You can do it. You can get all the wiring instructions nowadays right from the net... See... http://www.commandocaralarms.com/wiring/2006-2007/Dodge/Charger/384.html or http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/uploads/2007DodgeCharger.txt Plus it puts all the notes for the car in there as well... most shops that install nowadays are WAY to lazy to look for wires like I used to do back in the late 80's. There was no tech support for companies that had wiring for cars and no internet. SO installers from the 80's are much better than the kids out there today that don't even have a multimeter... and trust me on this one... I have been doing tech support for the past 11 years and most installers can't read a meter and they use scotchlocks or monket jumpers as I call them.
Ok, I'll be in Provo, UT 84606. I think I'll just have someone install it. I already have the Mopar remote start. I think I'll just look into getting that Ungo SR9000. I have LoJack, but that doesn't apply in Utah. I had a friend send me this. I don't understand it very well. Opinions anyone? So far, I'm going to trust Mighty Noid seeing as how he understands this certain product more. Clifford Matrix 70.5X- RB http://techronics.com/caraudio_9183_Clifford-Matrix-70-5X-RB-2-Way-Color-OLED-LCD-Pager-Security-System-Car-Alarm-System.html?aff=72182
The color oled display is fancy looking but you don't get any more information than a black and white lcd. For some reason the oled remotes only seem to be fairly short range. When they list a distance it's usually under "ideal" conditions. Basically that means the salt flats or over water... You can get the same function with a non color lcd remote that has a range of over 1 mile. That means that the remote will be in contact with the car parked on one side of the mall when you're on the other side of the mall. 1/4 mile will only get you across the parking lot. Spend a day or two browsing everything you can to get an idea. It will be worth it. You're going to be dropping a large chunk of cash and likely to stick with it for the life of the car. Or... you could just have Noid spec everything out for you and send you the complete shopping list :thumb3:
Sound Warehouse in SLC or Orem will do a good install job... I will get you a name as well on Monday. I will talk to the head guy at Clarion/Ungo to get you the best place possible... Also if you already have the Mopar remote start installed... that will make the install go much easier. That is the hard part...
Just a little FYI... The so called 1 mile range is not true... the FCC will not approve that range... but the way all the alarm companies get away with it.... Is by having the main chip in the unit be able to reach that far but they have to have it tuned down... it is a marketing tool... Just like audio companies say that the radio has 45 watts per channel... NOT TRUE AT ALL!! A marketing tool. The amp chip in the radio can do it but the main power wire is to small, small heat sink, and very small power supply... but the radio has none of them...
