Anyone know what psi is appropriate for these bad boys? I still need to order some ARP wheel bolts and some steel valve stems to run these at the track from my understanding. For now i gotta wait though, don't even have money to get these mounted and balance. I hate this economy! :cry:
I tried dropping mine down to 15psi and I felt them spin on the rim on the 2-3 shift. I don't have them screwed yet, but they will be next time I go out. My 60' times were not that great on them the first time out. However, some other cars were having trouble hooking so it was probably track prep.
Seems to me that if you have some sort of power adder your gonna get tire slipping. What about a head/cam set up like mine? You guys think I'm gonna have this problem? If so, what is needed to screw down the tire properly? Any negative things to consider before doing this?
Damn, you guys are running an awful lot of psi through those slicks... I would start off with 10psi and see how they hook. And yea, slicks should be screwed down to prevent slip...
Ive always been under the motto that you want to run as much PSI as you can and still hook. Trust me, you dont want a first timer running these things at 10 PSI. They float down the track as it is, more PSI with traction is the best bet. Obviously if you dont hook at said PSI, lower it.
Good point (safety first), but what is the sense in having the slicks if you don't get the most out of them? Another point is that the slick is a bias tire, so if you are running radials up front, YIKES! After speaking to Jim (Yearwood Performance), his recommendation is start low and add 1/2 psi until the car is drivable and hooks. Jim did look on Hoosiers website, but they do not give any recommendations. Since our anchors are heavy (lol), 10 - 12 psi should be optimal? Jim's doorslammer weighs nearly half of our sleds and he keeps his psi at 7.
I still dont see the point in starting backwards, why start at a point where the car might not be drivable.
