this is true...however he should have between 95 and 125+ amps at any given time...which should be enough to charge up the batt....no? My car idles at an avg 700 rpm...and driving is between 1000/2500 "under normal driving conditions". so by this graph...adding a little bit...i should have anywhere between 95ish amps and 130ish amps at any given time...am i reading that correctly?
Yes you are but you are omitting things like the rest of the electrical load. I am not sure exactly what everything draws so I can't say for sure. When the car is running the alternator runs all the steady state electrical demands plus adding charge back to the battery. The battery is really there to just take car of the instantaneous power demands. So if you are drawing more than the alternator can supply you pull from the battery. Edit: For giggles here are some calculations and rules of thumb. For just a ballpark figure take about 40% of your alternators total current avaliable. That should give you a ballpark on how much reserve you have for things like a sound system. So in you guys case you have about 64 amps of head room. So in a perfect world a 600Wx1 rms amp @13.4V would draw around 43 amps peak. Now since we do not live in a perfect world there is going to be some kind of inefficiency in the amp. So we assume a 50% loss and then assume that the speaker only uses about 1/3 of the total current as an average current draw. So 1200W/13.4=89.5amps 89.5 * 1/3= 29 amps. Take the OP's system. 1350W 2700/13.4=201 amps 201*1/3= 67amps Keep in mind this is average current draw so there will be times when it is lower and other times when it is much higher.
True statement ^^^ The battery is a storage facility for the Alternator. This is why the voltage regulator is in place. The VR's sole purpose is to convert power from the Alt to the Battery and vise versa. <<< Simple terms. lol There is more to the VR, I just don't have much time to explain.
So what could us OEM audio/video accessories guys and gals do to prevent dead batteries lol... since the only aftermarket electronics i have in my car are Gauges and my car dies about 60% of the time lol./..i go more than 3 days without driving it and dead lol
already did... they replaced the batt for free said "we dont know what else to do" (which is why i basically said FUUUUUCK YOU GUYS to going there) and sent me on my way lol
What i would do is take a DMM like i have a fluke 88 but what ever you have. Set it up to measure current, disconnect the positive terminal and place it between (obviously turn off the car and don't attempt to start it or anything in this setup). Look at what the current draw is and start disconnecting stuff you have added till it drops to near 0. I say near because there are some things that may a small amount of current like the ECU or other electronics. By small I mean milliamp or less range. This should direct you to where the battery drain is occuring.
DMM == Digital Multi-Meter (like you can get a Radio Shack) That would be Amps. Seeing as Kill is able to do in his battery in a very short amount of time... If you get one of those really cheap multimeters with the teeny tiny wires on the probes just make sure they don't get hot when you first hook it up. :future:the above has been brought to you by the SRT/C as a service for the electrically challenged:future:
Amps is a unit of measure for current pookie.:friends: Just like inches are a unit of measure for distance. The wires are usually at least 14 AWG and typically they are fused inside the DMM so you shouldn't have to worry to much unless you are drawing >10A
I wasn't correcting you. it was an explanation/translation for those who might not know what a DMM is...:grin:
Ooops..... sorry guys. I forgot to update this. They replaced my battery and all has been fine since. Although..... last week I was driving home from play golf. I had the lights/fogs on, AC on high, and stereo LOUD with 50 Cent's "Candy Shop" which absolutely HAMMERS in my truck. After about 30 seconds...... BOOM, there is the battery light. Did you guys know that your fog lights won't work if your battery light comes on. Wierd huh? Pulled into the corner store to grab a beer, started it back up and it's been fine since. No light. I swear my truck is possessed!!
i find it hard to be the voltage regulator.. not saying your wrong.. but first off I work for dodge and work on many of these srt 8 jeeps and also have 1. The dealer should of done a parastic draw test? should of checked for codes.. not just lets toss a battery the 2nd time.. theres obviously something drawing power from the battery. if you dont like that dealer, go to another one. explain them the situation if they are a half decent dealership they will do more than just an avr test. Also the whole part above that stated none of the modules go to sleep and they do take some power from the battery is false... Each module goes to sleep 6 mins after the key is cycled off. you can see this with an ohm meter. when u first turn the key off and have the meter hooked up it will read like 2.6 or something ohms... just watch the meter for a while it will slowly decrease. u allowed a max of 0.05 ohms for a draw.. anything more than that you have a problem. I would take it to a different dealership.. or go back to the same one and ask for a AVR test again, a battery test print out, check for DTC, do a parastic draw.... Sounds to me the dealer isnt doing there job.
