Rice plates... Any advantages?

dont buy the boomba thats just back peddling. the AGP and the Mopar piece are so close it would be stupid to sell on for the other. the ptp springs may be a good idea but they do add a bit of surge to the equation because of the stiffness. i honestly think you should go back and make sure that everything is sealed, did you redo it and let the rtv sit for a few hours before boosting it?

 

Read post #6.

I guess I am back peddling. :boxed:
Just sent him $50 shipped for the Boomba. I searched SRtforums and read up on like every thread about it. Not many people are having problems with it at all. Plus it doesn't blow off all the time.

No, I did not redo it. Because its such a PITA to mess with and just realized I didn't let it cure until like last month. I don't let a boost leak make the best of me. But since I will be putting a Stage 2 WGA on I am want to fix my problems. I couldn't pass up a Boomba piece in almost new condition for 60% off with everything included.

 

Take it off ECU control and that "problem" will go away.

I seriously doubt the bov is the problem do what sean said before you switch it out that way you will only have one variable to deal with.

 

This thread has gone in every direction possible and still going back to the stock surge valve location.

Threadstarter, clearly what are you trying to accomplish?

After your install, do a boost leak test! Don't assume your leak free. I do a boost leak test on my car atleast every 2 weeks. Everything was fine for a bit then I ended up with 3 leaks.

A drastic boost leak you can hear, a small or big one you can't. One way to tell is if the needle flutters a lot BUT you need to find out where the leak(s) are and fix them. These cars run like crap with leaks.

If you don't have a boost leak tester then get with some SRT-4 owners around your area that do and are willing lend you a hand.

Don't just blow off your shoulders boost leaks like if their nothing because they are something. The boost leak tests I've done, leaks found and fixed... the people leave here amazed how much better and stronger the car is running.

 

I want something that won't leak and different type of surge valve. Something that will handle my Stage 2 WGA. I want to know about the Boomba if anyone has expierenced it with the stock turbo. A 13;b spring seems a bit strong on 15-17lbs of boost, causing compressor surge and maybe ruining the turbo. Then others are saying its fine... I had a Kinetic WGA with rerouted vac lines and I HATED it. Driveabilty sucked due to PTB and compressor surge. My boost needle doesn't bounce. I did a boost leak test a while back, and my weak spring on my stock surge valve not being able to hold 20 pounds thus blowing the air out of the vents on my AGP. Or it could of been a leak.... Then that leads me to remember when I was tuning my Kinetic and rasing my boost. My needle started bouncing at 19 or so lbs...

Boost leak test every two weeks? Damn. Thats over doing it in my opinion. But then again you live in Forida so you have nice weather all the time to work on your car.

I do not own a compressor but I do have a dasmopar tester. I will try to find someone locally that has a compressor, but so far I am out of luck. I want to pick one up but a decent one is $300. Whats the cheapest compressor you can buy just for boost leaks?

 

I've had the PTP/Kinectic/SBR wga and sold it and got an AGP wga.

As far as boost leak test every two weeks. There was a time I did it every week. It doesn't take long and its only for safe measure on my behalf. I like my car running good and these cars are known for having boost leaks and are prone to them more then any other turbocharged car. It might be over doing it every two weeks BUT it should be done atleast once a month. Reason I do it every two weeks is because today you may be leak free but tomorrow could be a different story. Some are minor, some are big but either way they will hurt perfomance.

You don't need a big air compressor if all your going to do with it is do boost leak tests. I'll post later on the size gallon one that's here.

If your surge valve was still under pcm controlled boost it should have not leaked when doing a boost leak test. When I had my blue plate with my stock surge valve on pcm control it didn't leak at all or let out pressure. Usually if they leak its either owner installed it incorrectly, gasket is worn, surge valve is broken, diaphram inside surge valve is broken.

Anytime you mess with or change or install something to the pressurized system a boost leak test must be done to ensure everything is leak free and installed correctly.

 

jesus, perfect exapmle, remember my scenario? had a upp/bov blockoffplate installed, pressure tested to 20 lbs, (when you tested there were about 3-4) after srt-hookups fixed them, then there were none. on the highway, i hit 15 psi fine.

when i got to my house 30 miles away, i could only hit 13.5 psi and my needle flutters like crazy.-still does today-

i am going back to the great service your company has offered me for a third time to get the agp wg, intake manifold gasket, truboost and a boost leak test within the next few weeks. :yes: i just need to get in contact with your secretary and schedule once i find out a definite day.

 

"Benefits of using a boost leak tester
A boost leak tester will allow you to pressurise your cars turbo plumbing/intercooler/throttle body/intake manifold to test for leaks from loose clamps, cracked intake manifolds/intercoolers, loose vacuum hoses, etc.

Drawbacks:
A boost leak tester subjects your car to a situation in which WILL NEVER happen during normal driving conditions. For example, when your driving, and have a good amount of boost, then release the throttle, pressurized air will be released from the blow off valve. When you use a boost leak tester, the car is off, and the throttle plate closed, and your subjecting 15-25 psi of boost to the entire motor/piping/accesories. So, this scenario of high boost, and the throttle plate being closed, forces air to escape from areas which will never leak in a normally driven car.

For example: customers have told me about leaks they heard from oil caps, stock throttle bodies, etc. These are items which should never leak.

Moral of the story:
A boost leak tester is very useful to find, isolate leaks, and to make sure your system is in good order. HOWEVER, youll more than likely find leaks which will never be a problem anyways, and it is only good as a general test."

From: MPX.

Thats why you upgrade to t-bolts. Testing a car that often might develop leaks from pushing all that air through a non running car and changing the conditions.

I got my Boomba in the mail and I decided to sell it and put my stock surge valve on with the PTP spring.





Whats a good size for an air compressor just to test boost leaks? Do you need something big? I see them advertised at Home Depot/Sears for $100. Any links/ideas or suggestions would be great.

 

anything but a pancake compressor that has a regulator that can be turned down to around 20-25

 

Craftman's 125 psi / 3 gallon air compressor is what I use for boost leak tests.

 

Hooked up to a regulator to regulate the amount of air shooting out?

 

The boost leak tester I have has a lever to regulate the air being put into the tester as well as a gauge built to it for psi reading. I don't use the regulator on the air compressor.

 

I have the DasMopar unit. It just has the gauge on it. Is that all I need since that determines how much air is going through the system?

 

You'll need to regulate the amount of air that's going into the tester some how. If it doesn't have a lever like the one I have you'll need to regulate it from the air compressor. Watch the gauge on the tester and watch the tester to make sure its not coming off the turbo. Pressurize the system to 20psi... atleast that's where I do my test. You can do it less if you want. 20 seems to be the spot... some go to 25 but I wouldn't recommend it. Also if your doing this while the engine is hot let it cool off a bit because the tester will pop off the turbo.

You'll also need a piece of hose with a bolt put into it on one end with a hose clamp. This piece you will put on your valve cover nipple where the hose ran from your valve cover to your intake system. If you don't it will shoot out air and possibly oil when you go to do the boost leak test.

Also, if your running all your stock vac lines from the solenoids...
There's a black line with a 90 degree nipple fitting on the end that goes to the intake system. You'll need to put your finger over it or put a bolt or even a 1/4 in ratchet end in it to keep it from leaking when your doing your boost leak test. Make sure whatever you put there to temporalily seal it is snug.

Seems like the way you'll have to do your boost leak test you "may" need another person maybe not. Just play it safe.

 

Make sure that is tight because I almost castrated someone standing next to my car when the bolt shot out. :cry2:

 

Also here's the How-To for a boost leak test

http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=682

 

Thank you and I apologize for dragging this thread out. lol

Will be doing a test hopefully this saturday, waiting for my PTP spring to come int he mail.

 

No problem! Let us know how it goes.

 

Update!

Well well well. Took off the AGP EVM plate with a friend today. Curious to see what the gasket looked like on it... Copper permatex of course... Well you could see where it was leaking... It was really flat in a certain area... Thats what happens when you don't let it cure! Got my PTP spring and replaced it with the stock spring in the extra surge valve I had gotten. Kept on popping out! such a stronger spring. (8lbs as opposed to 4lbs on the stocker.)

Put it on with a bit of "Right Stuff" around the edges. Stock surge valve doesn't need a gasket but what the hell. Put the old bolts on with washer. Hooked up the dasmopar unit and plugged the vac lines that needed to be plugged. Valve cover nipple included.

HISSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS, shit a leak!!!

Took a while to pinpoint it but it was on my modded charge pipe...
Modded you might ask, well this is what I did a couple months back...

I had a bad dent in my stock charge pipe... Well I thought it was bad...


So I decided to follow the how to on SRT-forums on the bottleneck fix. (which actually does nothing IMO)

I picked up a stock charge pipe that was dentless.


And got this...


I had the upper portion cut off and t-bolted the above coupler on and installed it.

Thought I had it on there good.... Turns out I didn;t.

Pumped it up to 20lbs and Hissssssssssssssssssssssssss air was leaking out on the upper t-bolt. Tightened it down still a hisssss. Find out there is a leak on the bottom t-bolt.... Tightened it down still a leak. We try repositioning it for an hour and pump air through. Still leaks. I felt around and where the pipe starts to turn is where the t-bolt is. So we thought we would loosen it up and move the piping, no success due to the damn bend.... So yeah this sucks. Massive boost leak FTL. Get it up to 20 psi and it falls pretty fast. We got it so it didn't fall as fast but it does fall to around 8 or so and holds it for a bit. Tahts the only place where it was leaking..

Since my stock piece is unmodified, but with that dent. Should I put that back on there, is that dent really a big deal?

Get a PTP charge pipe?

Ideas would be great. I am just sick of having a damn leak.

We did a couple runs afterwards and man, no more "sneeze off" noise at VAC! with that spring and stock surge valve! Sounds like its NA.

Sorry for another rant.

 

so wheres the leak at