DIY: Radar Detector Mount

Discussion in 'How-To/Tech Database' started by Kevan, May 23, 2009.

  1. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

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    NOTE: This is article is not completed, but will be soon and delivered to all SRT vehicle DIY areas.

    RADAR DETECTOR MOUNT FOR *ALL* DODGE VEHICLES

    After the stock suction cup mounts repeated failure (along with the coily cord yanking the radar detector into my crotch once), I began researching other mounting options.

    The popular mount seemed to be from a 'craft place'. After further review, I found out that it only allowed the radar detector (RD) to be under-slung below the rear view mirror.
    With vision as limited as it is, putting more stuff in the way wasn't an option.
    I also wanted the RD up as high as possible to seek out the best possible radar signal.

    I searched a few sites and found the TechMount Handlebar mount. It's designed to be mounted on motorcycle handlebars.
    Unfortuantely, the smallest diameter they made was 7/8".
    The adjustment cylinder on our rear view mirrors is 3/4". *sigh*

    Determined to make it work, I purchased the TechMount mount and began....


    TIME: approx. 1 hour.
    DIFFICULTY: 1
    COST: Less than $80.
    TOOLS:
    [​IMG]
    - Scissors (sharp, please)
    - 3/16" allen wrench (supplied in TechMount kit)
    - 1/4" allen wrench (supplied in TechMount kit)
    - 5/16" allen wrench (supplied in TechMount kit)

    SUPPLIES
    [​IMG]
    - TechMount Handlebar Mount (part# 30996; item# HGS014).
    I purchased through RadarBusters.com for about $70 shipped, but it can be found elsewhere online as well.

    - 1" Pipe bracket w/ rubber inside from home store/hardware store:
    [​IMG]

    LEGEND:
    - Rear View Mirror Frame
    - Forward Mirror Ball Mount
    - Adjustment Cylinder
    - Rear Mirror Ball Mount
    - TechMount Clamp
    - TechMount Base Pivot
    - TechMount Ball Shaft (Arm)
    - TechMount Ball Socket (Gimbal)
    - TechMount Top Plate

    ATTACHING THE MOUNT:
    Remove the rubber from the pipe clamp:
    [​IMG]

    Trim the rubber to fit around the outside of the adjustment cylinder on the mirror:
    [​IMG]
    Go 'long', and trim repeatedly until you have a perfect fit around the cylinder.

    The rubber is not only there as a bushing to make the diameter of the adjustment cylinder on the mirror slightly larger, but also to act as a vibration dampener. It also really helps with grip.

    WARNING: There are small ball bearings behind each of the set screws on the gimbal.
    THEY WILL FALL OUT IF THE SET SCREW IS REMOVED!

    Before attaching the clamp to the adjustment cylinder on the mirror, get the mount's arm and upper gimbal into the approximate position they will be in when finally installed.
    This keeps you from making major adjustments after it's up on the adjustment cylinder of the mirror.

    Note how the base pivot is at 90 deg. from the cylinder. You want the arm to come towards the passenger seat, and angle up slightly.
    The gimbal should be positioned so that the arm can utilize the 'notch' in the gimbal if necessary.

    If you're reading this on any other site than the SRT Connection forum, that means some asshat stole it and is breaking the law.
    If you let me know, I'll have him/her arrested.

    I added a bit of blue threadlocker to the base pivot mounting bolt:
    [​IMG]
    Once the arm is in place, you won't be able to access this bolt, so set it and clamp it down tight.

    Place the rubber bushing INSIDE the main clamp on the TechMount mount.

    Attach the main clamp to the adjustment cylinder on the mirror mount:
    [​IMG]
    Try to keep the rubber centered.
    The little 'flaps' on the edge of the rubber bushing can be set to give it a more flush look.

    Adjust the main clamp, arm and gimbal until you achieve your desired position (or really close to it). Snug up- DO NOT TIGHTEN! - the set screws to maintain your basic position. Fine tuning will be done later.
    In some cases, the main clamp may be pointing down (towards the floor). That's okay.

    The top plate has several mounting hole options. There's also a detent dimple that matches the divots on the top of the gimbal. This prevents it from slipping, but can make it a pain to get the right angle you want. File off the dimple if desired.
    Try to keep it as centered as possible.


    [​IMG]

    The TechMount kit comes with a healthy patch of Velcro for both the top plate and the RD. There are pre-cut holes for the top plate mounting screw.
    I installed the 'loop' part to the mount plate and the 'hook' part to the bottom of the RD. Your call on that.
    As you folks now, I'm not a big fan of velcro and double-stick tape and other non-permanent mounting options. But in this case, I'm okay with it: helps deter theft by making the RD portable in a shorter period of time.

    With the mount installed, the RD can now be installed on top:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    Do your final adjustments on positioning the RD (height, angle, etc.)
    Then lock the set screws on the gimbal.


    DIY article coming for hard-wiring the RD.
    Featured areas will include:
    - Headliner
    - A-pillar
    - Side of dash
    - 12VDC connections.

    Enjoy your new radar detector mount!

    NOTES:
    - The one thing I didn't like was that while the whole mount was black, the screws were silver. I know that's trivial, but on a black-themed vehicle, it's not workin'. They will soon be swapped out for black oxide-coated screws of the same size.
    Black oxide screws can be purchased from local hardware stores, or from Fastenal or McMaster-Carr.


    ©2008 Kevan J. Geier
    ALL RIGHTS RESERVED
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2009
  2. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Nice Kevan!

    How are you attaching the RD to the mount? and where do you get your black oxide fasteners from?
     
  3. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

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    Thanks, Quick!
    I updated it a bit (working on a few other DIY's at the same time; pacing myself. LOL).
    Velcro is used on the bottom of the RD and the top mount plate. Very secure, but removable to stash the RD in the glove box while you're in the store shopping for blowers and headers. :D

    Black Oxide screws can be found at most hardware stores, and places like Home Depot/Lowe's. Online, they can be found/ordered through Fastenal or McMaster-Carr. I'm sure other places have them too.
    I'll get the thread sizes up there ASAP.

    After searching manuals and the web for hours and not finding a single decent picture of the 'ball-cylinder-ball' mount our mirrors use, I need to take my own pics.
    I'll get some after the sun rises.
     
  4. 1FST4DR

    1FST4DR Supporting Vendor

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  5. Quick

    Quick Mgmt. - I can't help you

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    Me too but those truck guys seem to have room OVER their mirrors.

    Kevan, if you list the circumference of the mirror adjustment cylinder people can cut the rubber the right length the first time (or I guess you could just measure your gasket).
     
  6. Kevan

    Kevan SRT-10 Owner

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    Nothing wrong with that, but I wanted *less* stuff in my field of vision, and a better vantage point for my RD to pick up signals.

    Good idea. I'll get the measurement off Keith's truck.
    Mine's not coming apart. :D
    EDIT: or we could just go back to geometry class: .75" x π (3.14159) = 2.35619". :D

    BTW- the Viper car guys like it above the mirror as well.
    Talk about a thin windshield!
     
    Last edited: May 24, 2009
  7. Prof

    Prof Cantankerous Old Fart

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    Thanks Kevan.
     
  8. Tamddbce

    Tamddbce New Member

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    I really liked this*information.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2015