guess what ... I got JUICE!

yeah Dave, maybe I'll do that .. then I'll go into the house and fuck Jessica Simpson

figured I'd get some horsepower in a bottle .. I'm trying to be careful, Dave's fucking that up by giving me inaccurate information!

 

Heh, it MIGHT not be inaccurate... we just don't know yet. :rofl:


How about I change the title from "guess what ..." to "guess what ... I got JUICE!"? That should draw a lot more replies.

 

I hope your information is accurate .. if not im going to petition for your resignation from our SRT-C management position LOL!

Please change the title ... that would be great

 

Done. and while we're waiting, how come you didn't raise your shift points?

 

when I'm driving aggressively to where I would prefer the raised shift points, I'm either using the autostick or me paddles .. so I bring it up the limiter then, so i didnt see the point

edit: thanks for the thread name change

 

Oh, ok.

Like 1FST4DR said, you're probably going to want the window switch for traction issues. You got plenty of power to spin the tires out of the hole without spraying so you want to hit the juice after you get going a bit (or you're going to break your half shafts if you do have traction). If it's a pedal switch (just WOT) then it comes on when the pedal hits the floor. It's a bit busy during launch so flipping a manual switch can be a bit tricky on the timing right?

 

Heh, the old man is reading the thread. We'll have answers soon!

I'd think you'd want the top of the window too. I'm pretty much stock and lose traction on occassion (if it's colder out) at the 1-2 shift. I don't have skilz to soft pedal it without losing a whole lot of time.

 

Listen to what Scott said. My window switch is on at 4000 and off at 200 RPM higher than my shift points. I always leave it in drive. I have my best results at about 1100 lbs. pressure, but I run a 2 solenoid/nozzle single stage setup for now.

Dave, I'm in San Jose till Tuesday

 

thanks for pitchin in Hal .. would that 1100 lbs pressure vary any considering your in AZ and I'm in PA .. would I have to factory in the temperature/climate when running a specific amount of pressure ..

also Scott said run a 100 shot with 46/24 jets .. whats a that??!?!

 

oh jesus h christ

 

That is your jet sizes. 46 nitrous 24 fuel.These go into the nozzle..

BTW Sometimes the Zex will not work with pressure over 1000psi.So I would keep it between 950-1000psi..Where you live shouldnt matter

 

You'll be fine running a 300 shot with a window switch 200rpms before shifting

Why not heads/cam/headers?

Oh yea cheap man's power adder FTL.....typical

 

Not on a stock block Paul. JMatt did 275, but that was on a 3 stage setup. Window switch set to be on thru the shifts.

 

Are you suggesting to him to run a 300 shot of N20 on his car??I hope not..

Not to mention his tranny wasn't his friend when he was done.

 

anthony - congrats on the new zex set up. if you need input, definately talk to scott on the zex kit...... he is the expert!!!!

 

I wouldnt say an expert but after running it for 2yrs I learned a thing or two.For the hard questione i find Jmatt..lol

 

I wasn't, Paul was. I eluded to JMatt was running a 3 stage.

With Anthony running or a 75 to 100 shot, to not turn the N2O thru his shifts, as Paul had suggested.

 

His tranny looked almost new when he tore it down? He had problems with it shifting through that much power but the tranny showed almost no wear.

 

I'm curious about how the window switches operate. Do they work only in one direction?

For example let's say you have the low number set to 4000 and the high number set to 6000. Does the operation happen ONLY when you transition from below the number to above the number?

as the rpms climb from 3999 to 4001 it should turn on.
as the rpms climb from 5999 to 6001 it should turn off.

What about when the rpms are dropping? Does it turn back on as the rpms drop from 6001 to 5999? Is this a settable option? For shifting I'd think you'd only want it to toggle as the rpms are going up. Or is it always that it's on inside the window and off outside of the window.

 

what stevo?!?! dont be mean LOL

I figured thats what the 46/24 mean .. I read somewhere the ratio is almost 2:1 nitro to fuel so that will make sense.

sorry if you said this, but I just want to check .. the bottle warmer will maintain the pressure, right?

Heads/cam/headers will be later, I dont want to head into that direction yet but soon. I plan on a 426 soon actually so ...

cheap mans power adder .. maybe, it will be there when I want a little more fun. thanks for including yourself into the thread ..

actually Paul is just being an asshole .. he obviously hasnt let go of a previous disagreement we had .. I hope this thread will stay on the topic.

thanks honey

your doing well so far Scott .. anytime else you can think of ..

maybe talk to me about a purge kit and blow down tube ..
I heard the purge kit will help maintain pressure too .. I hear the initial burst of n2o is pretty intense and it kinda "levels" out as its running .. I heard mixed feelings that some say you want to purge to maintain safety .. others say you want that extra pressure when it activates??

a blow down tube help leak the n2o out of the car if a line breaks, right? this is to not get you stoned like Chris Farley in Black Sheep .. if this is the case, why isnt a blowdown tube mandatory when running n2o?

that what I was saying earlier .. you would think it only activates as the rpms are increasing ... if not when you downshift and your rpms go over 4500 or whatever .. the n2o would kit on then too?

the other question is I heard you dont want to spray continuously for more then 10 seconds .. so with the window switch .. does it turn on at 4500 and shut off at 6000, then the car shifts to say 3rd gear .. then it will turn on again at 4500 then off at 6000 till it shifts to 4th gear .. which should be when Im going through the traps ...