Did a boost leak test... interesting finding...

Thats funny because that happened when I had the blue plate and the stock in, but when I had the forge I didn't have to do that.

 

Don't turn the key on or you will have to reset the ecu because it will throw an over pressure code.

I also had an issue with the stock surge valve not sealing right and was leaking from behind the diaphram. Its actually what cause me to say to hell with it and buy hard pipes and an HKS.

 

Great post.
I had the AGP EM and it was leaking through the vents with the key on the ON position. I read about cycling the on and off on the other forum and that balanced it out. But some people it didn't work. I ended up taking it off and the copper RTV had a split in one section.
Great troubleshooting on your part by taking the pink line off and trying it both ways. So I take it its a good idea to cap that pink line and run the boost leak test to 20 psi.

Everytime I boost leaked the car I could never get it up that high. I believe 18 psi was the highest. Think its my compressor not producing enough csfm? Should be 5 at 20 psi.
2.4 csfm @ 90 psi
3.7 csfm @ 40 psi
1hp 3 gal 125psi max

 

yea a 1hp and a 3gal tank really wont work its like almost using a pancake compressor im using a 5hp and a 30gal tank and it works well

 

Dammit I forgot you had the s1. Cool glad it worked out. :mains:


I think I am going to go and change back to the stock WGA and see if I am still pulling timing but that is a discussion for another thread.

 

Well we found leaks on a friends car using this compressor, I mean it does the job doesn't it? It has a regulator to shoot 20 psi into the system thats all that is needed.

 

as long as it works thats great

 

I had air shooting out the vents past 10 psi with the ignition off. Wasn't leaking around the RTV at all. I should of did what you did and capped the pink line and cap the nipple on the BOV to really test it.

There is a local who has his Boomba setup like a aftermarket BOV so its T'd into a direct vac source and he doesn't use the pink line at all. It is capped on the solenoid there with a vac cap. He said he gets a lot less flutter but it goes off in VAC a lot like the Mopar piece.

So what do you guys think about running into the TB line? I guess it won't hurt to try.

 

Yo Jesus,

I know that your leak is not in the bov itself but just so you know that bov WILL leak over time. It might be not even enough to loose a pound of boost but me and J-srt4 found that the Mopar/Boomba plates will eventually start to leak. Hardpipes and an attachable bov is the best/leak free way to go. You probably already know this but I figured it was the only thing I could contribute to the post. I'd have to be with you during the test to locate your leak.

 

^ Well its because the diaphragm and spring become week over time and there will be play in it... Like I took off mys tock surge valve off my stock turbo and examined and compared it with the newer one that was on the S3 fold.
The rubber piece on the old one was not level and it had side to side play in it and didn't seat all the way down. The newer one was very nice and firm, and sat perfectly on the aluminum with no play at all.

This thread is mainly about the Boomba though and I am still skeptical on it. Don't really want to spend a good amount of money on a new Synapse BOV with a hardpipe if my Boomba is fine, but the flutter and compressor surge I get when I spool it up and let off isn't good, granted I do not drive like that. Either pedal to the metal or very light on the throttle... This minimizes compressor surge with my car. But with say teh Synapse, I can drive the car anyway I want.

 

^^^ You are correct. The piece just becomes warped after time, there is no stopping this from happening. When you turn your srt4 into a fucking beast, the boomba should not be in the equation. Get what I'm sayin? High boost application, with surge, and leaks, = loss race, and early termination of critical parts. That's all.

 

Does it matter if the BOV faces up or down when you are running an external one? I see on JMB's site you have the option to have it pointed down or up.

More noise when up? And you can only run a SRI or CAI kit with it up?

I too have heard of the piston getting stuck and its because you need to take it apart and lube it up with silicone grease...

But thanks for your input Havok, I don't think I should be running this Boomba anymore I think its time for an Obama change lol. Once it stops snowing I will try to re-route my vac lines so my Boomba will be run like an external BOV, see how I like it then.....

I just need to find a good deal on a UPP and a Synapse BOV...

 

Found a nice little gem on the how-tos ection that I totally forgot about:

http://www.srtconnection.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5653


I would have to get a 4 way T though correct? Since I have a line going to my S3 fuel rail?

 

Got it all hooked up last week.
This is what it sounded like with the pink line hooked up to the Boomba BOV just like stock:
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/r1c0chet/?action=view&current=acer065.flv
Flutter and compressor surge.

Followed the how-to in the how-to section. PRetty much elimintated the middle solenoid. No lines are hooked to it now. Plus got rid of a bunch of other lines.

After.
http://s18.photobucket.com/albums/b146/r1c0chet/?action=view&current=acer.flv
No flutter at all. Sounds great at WOT! Sounds like a damn Tial.

(Both videos are done at partial throttle boost. Give it a bit of gas and shift)