Brought to you by Need4Speed2006 Well, I installed the spacers today. Heres my recap, tips, and pointers... The spacers do not come with any gaskets. The instructions say to reuse the stock gaskets (they are metal with basically oring material around the ports) - they are reuseable. The spacers do come with instructions, but like other GSM instructions - are lacking some detail. For instance they do not mention anywhere about disconnecting and removing the fuel rail. Anyway, this install really isnt that involved - so its not too bad. Tip #1 - I did my install after my car sat and cooled off all night. I dont like working on a HOT motor. Tip #2 - When you disconnect the fuel rail fitting - put a cap on the rail and put a zip tie around it. This will prevent any gas from spilling when you take the rail off. (You can leave the rail on the intake and pull everything off as a complete unit - I decided to remove the rail to prevent a possible gas spill) Tip#3 - The MAP sensor is a pain to disconnect. There is a clip you have to snap back then push on the tab and pull the connector off. Take your time...again its a pain. Tip #4 - Disconnect the vac hose going to the brake booster at the booster. Then pull the hose around and on top of the intake. This is ALOT easier then trying to disconnect it from the back of the intake. Then take it off when the intake is off the car. I put it back on after I installed the intake with the spacers. Tip #5 - I decided to use silicone like the instructions say to. Basically you glue the spacers to the intake (while the intake is filpped up-side-down). Make sure you clean all the surfaces - mine had alot of oil on everything. I used Black silicone. I applied a good amount and spread it over the entire surface. I decided to use a light coat of silicone around all the oring surfaces of the stock gaskets as well. So basically you glue the spacers to the intake, glue the stock gaskets to the spacers, and use the supplied new push pins to snap everything together so everything is attached to the intake. Tip #6 - Do not over tighten the intake bolts! I overtighten everything. I used a torque wrench and one of the damn bolts stripped. I went and got a 1/4" longer bolt and everything is fine now - but be careful. The spacers make the stock bolts have less threads engaged in the heads. My suggestions: The spacers are fine when installed like the GSM instructions say to install them. I used the silicone and reused the stock gaskets. My car idles fine and there are no leaks. Thinking down the road though - When I do heads, cam, intake I'm going to reinstall them differently...like this: I'm going to get 2 new sets of stock gaskets. I'm also going to get all new 1/4" longer bolts and I'm going to sandwich the spacers with the stock gaskets. Although everything is fine now - I think this would be the ideal install. Also, you need 4 new push pins - GSM only provided me with 3. I ran down to the local auto parts store and got another one. They are just small plastic push pins. Well, everything went well besides the bolt issue. Just be careful tightening them. GSM says 124 inch pounds...whats that like 10-11 ft/lbs? For what its worth I torqued the intake bolts to 16 ft/lbs. I'll attach some pics. If anyone has any questions just fire away. I took the car for alittle test ride...everything feels good. Stopped at a gas station and popped the hood - yep, the intake is much, much cooler! I'm sure these spacers have to help tremendously with heat soak. Overall, a good product!
Sean Great write up and I will let Scott know. This type input is extremely helpful and he will appreciate it. I would also retorque them after 500-1000 miles. :good:
Cool write up. Change the bolts out to 6 X 35mm. I used copper head gasket sray to seal mine.................works great!!, way better then silicon.
"I'm going to get 2 new sets of stock gaskets. I'm also going to get all new 1/4" longer bolts and I'm going to sandwich the spacers with the stock gaskets. Although everything is fine now - I think this would be the ideal install." You're right, that is the ideal install and the way the kits should come. You're smart to spend the extra money and do it right. 2 friends of mine have had vacuum leaks and misfires from using the silcone, and Scott installed one of them himself at GSM!
How long are these spacers suppose to last ? Is there anyway in time they can crack and cause a vacume leak ?
I personally would NOT use the factory gaskets, since the rubber tends to get pinched. TRUST ME! I would silicone the base of the manifold lightly around the ports.......then set the spacer and install the plastic tab pins that are sold locally at NAPA. Then I would spread some silicone around the head ports (without getting it in the ports) and set the manifold straight down and begin installing the bolts. Tighten LIGHTLY from from the center in a circular pattern. Torque to 12-15ftlbs.
so....if im reading you correctly no gaskets at all....just Silicone and the Spacer and call it a day....the silicone will act as the gasket? Glad to get some better info....i had a feeling these spacers were gonna be different :happy:
I have seen more vacuum leaks using the factory gaskets when using a phenolic spacer. I have seen the application of silicone work the best....but not every "do it yourself" type can master the art of applying silicone.:stars:
Isnt there a company out there that you dont have to use gaskets??Lots of options out now compared to this time last year..
so did i read you correctly when you said you do not need to put any gaskets back on if you apply the silicone correctly? just the spacer and silicone?
These instructions have nothing to do with Bwoodys spacers, no silicone involved. The GSM spacers are a hack job IMHO, mine leaked on my JGC SRT8. WTF were they thinking when they said you have to use silicone to make them leak free, HACKS!!!! Stevo, 1 1/2 hours tops to do mine and yours, tightened and torqued to spec and leak free.
