So the exact bolt pattern that would fit is 5 x 115....what the hell are they talking about when they say 24+ offset? Sorry for the noob questions....
Yes, those will fit. You could even go to the 17" version of those wheels. The bolt pattern is not identical to ours. 5 x 114.3 vs. 5 x 115 That is .7mm difference spread across the entire bolt pattern. It will bolt up just like it fits and you won't notice the difference. Many people will discourage you from using them because of the different bolt pattern. A lot of people are using them. I don't know what the long term issues of using them might be. I have those same wheels but 17". The 17" wheel gives me 1/4" or less clearance of the caliper. 18" would clear it by more than an inch I guess. 24mm offset is how far the flat part of the mounting hub (for lack of the real name - the part of the wheel with the lug holes in it) is offset from dead center of the wheel. Positive offset is toward the outside of the car and negative offset is toward the inside of the car. Zero offset would be dead center. I think that our OEM wheels are 21.5mm offset. 24mm is fine. I added DRs and the RDP CAI at the same time and I have consistenly droped 2-3/10 off of my former best E/Ts. In other words, even my worst E/Ts now are 2-3/10 better than my old best E/Ts. I don't know which one (or maybe both) is contributing to that but I have eleven 12.5xx runs in a row (in DA's anywhere from 1850 to 2400) with the combination. I was running 12.75x to 12.8xx consistently before, even in better DA. Same wheels, just painted matte black:
Thanks Sam! Totally answers my questions. Much appreciated bro. And WOW, that's great to hear about the times and the fact they were consistent. Have you solidified the way you 'like' to launch or still working on it?
No, still working on the launch. The best 60' is 1.86 where my best with the F1's was 1.96 I should be able to launch it better than I am but I have not figured it out yet. My 60's are ranging between 1.86 and 1.97 consistently now. No more 2.xx but still not good enough.
Milan: I think we need to find out which other Cobra wheels fit. I believe that the FR500 style fits and I am pretty sure that the Bullitt (Torque Thrust-looking style) fits too. Both of those come in 9" and 10.5" widths. (Athough I think both of those styles need the hub diameter to be honed out about 1mm on the wheels to fit the hub on our cars.) There is also a Saleen Cobra SC aftermarket wheel that comes in 9", 10" and 10.5" width. I am not sure if it fits at all though. I would love to know if the 10 or 10.5 wheels fit without a spacer so I could put wider tires on it. Sam
hmmm I have 04 Cobra R rims and I had to hone out the inner hub lip (1mm too small) and a little hining of the lug holes themselves. What DR's are you using OM?
Anyone know of a package price on the 305/35R18's with wheels?? I know nothing when it comes to drag wheels/tires.
Ron: Were you using OEM Cobra R wheels? If so, the hub opening on those would have to be enlarged. I have two different sets of aftermarket Cobra R wheels and the hub diameters on both of those are more than large enough. I am using Hoosier DRs 275/40/17 right now. Sam
305/35/18 Mickey Thompson ET Streets for $525 shipped. Those may be the only DRs in 305/35/18. You would need at least a 18x10 wheel. You are probably looking at $150-165 each (shipped) for the most inexpensive ones. So you would be at $825-850 range.
What is the hub size on our cars? The set up you have looks menacing, I =know looks don't matter at the track but if it works out that way.. Is the 275/40/17 that much better than the 305/35/18? I know its all about gear ratio but does the width offset that?
Yes, they are OEM. Not sure why the Hoosiers are not hooking better for you. The Nitto 555's were great (BRAND NEW), but after 20+ runs, they SUCK. haha How are you warming the Hoosiers up?
Pull just through the water and do a pretty nice burnout. Maybe too much of a burnout if anything. Definitely not too little of one. Someone told me that I might be heating them up too much and making them slick. I am not sure if it is the way I am heating them up or if I am just not launching right. Seems like I have the best luck stalling to 2500. At 2000-2200, it seems like it bogs a little right at the launch. I am just not launching as hard as I think I should. Is there a way to "flash" the TC and launch it real hard? I can't notice (hear or feel) the wheel spin as much as I did with the F1's but it must still be happening a bit. I thought that I should at least be getting 1.7x 60's.
Someone told you correctly. DR's do not need the "John Force" burnout or they will glaze over. Do a burnout just long enough to create smoke, then let go of the burnout.
Gotcha! I'm definitely doing it wrong. I am much closer to the John Force burnout. Thats funny, because there is a picture that the professional track photographers took at the Mopar Nationals from directly in front of my car and there is a cloud of smoke 15 feet high and 8 feet wide engulfing my car. It is friggin cool but I guess I am overdoing it. Thanks for the help!!
