How high can you set the boost on a stage 1 car? I have an 05 so I know I have stage 1 injectors already in the car. I have purchased the agp Wga and a stage 1 ecu. #1, Can the stock turbo even put out enough boost to cause any damage with the Stage 1 ecu? if so what can I set it at to keep from messing anything up. #2, I know that our stock boost gauge is off so... how much boost can the stock turbo even put out? #3 with the stage 1 and the WGA do I need to get a piggy back fuel controller like the neo, ven with the few mods that I have? As of right now I cant do anything else to the car exhaust may came but that wont be for another year, you can thank a premature clutch going out for that!! :wallbash:
get a new gauge so you can corretly see your boost and you need a way to monitor your AFRs you dont wanna run too lean but first you should change you clutch. theres no point in increasing boost if you can put it to the ground
You can't go above ~17.5 psi without a fuel controller of some sort...i.e. map clamp/SAFC. The stock turbo effiency is only around 19-20 psi anyways. But, as was stated, get a wideband BEFORE you start f-ing around with your boost.
I got a afcII, some 682 injectors and a DCR meth injection kit(with TONS of other bolt on shiznit) and shoot i run my skittle at 22psi on my stocker got little over 300ponies and a little over 360 lbs. of torque and i believe thats all she can handle.... For now
^^^ Curious to see how long your stocker will run. Thats pushing it to the limit. Its not a stock turbo though. Has to be ported with those numbers + big wheel and nawz. I could be wrong though.
Mario has been running that setup for quite a while, just a bit of porting no big wheel business. i had to go big turbo to get faster than him. OP: people can shout numbers at you but the fact of the matter every car is different and location plays a huge factor in finding the optimum boost level for your cars setup. if you really want to find out where you should stop get a wideband A/F meter and something like a scangauge so that you can monitor knock. start at 16lbs and slowly turn it up until one of the two parameters (A/F, Knock) changes undesirably and then return to the boost level at which the parameters were acceptable. Nevin: i wouldn't mess with the clutch at that power level, my stocker held the the 3147 for 15k and never had a hint of slip
Yeah like Sean said Marios been running that setup for a while and ive had the pleasure in driving it once and that sucks a beast
Thanks fellas (sean and nev) it has lasted quite a while and STILL going strong but now i think its about time to bust out with my modified s3 with an extra something something..Plus primo designed a few things for my uncle to make sooooo she should be fairly quick.But only time will tell...
Hey Mario, I remeber you from the District. Yea I love the way your car runs, I have seen several of your races!! For a stocker that's pretty bad ass!! Incase you all forgot my last fourm, My clutch just went out and I bought a SBC stage II for it so... were all good there. So get a SAFC II of get a wideband?
Thats cool what up Jed?????? My clutch was going out so i bought an ACT clutch but i waited and waited and waited and waited to install it sooooo now i don't just have to replace the clutch (I already bought collecting dust in my closet) but now i have to rebuild my tranny and Still put the clutch in.. :bang: LOL Yeah thats a good place to start the SAFC II so you can control your fuel and the wideband to make sure what u did is safe.
Its my understanding that 18psi is the safest boost to run on a stage 1 ecu on a stock turbo. If your gonna get a stage 1 ecu just get a SCT flash from AGP as they send you tunes for free and you can adjust the same parrams as the stage 1 which basically just hides the codes. I say, if you care, get a 3 bar map and a sct flash and some fuel.
All skittles are different brotha and my stocker likes 22... Had her all the way up to 24 but now with the ninja black FMIC she lost bout 1-1.5psi so i cruz around on 20,21 depending on the day but she is still running strong
Well I have found a used stage 1 finally and its pretty cheap, and i have talked to the dealer here and they said they can flash it for me no problem. Is there anything to look out for when buying a used one? Its on ebay. As of right now all I can afford is the stage 1 pcm and the stuff I have already purchased for it. So... were could I run my boost at the safest level? With the agp WGA i have heard of ptb, what is this excatly and how do you drive around it? Hey this is off topic but I just rememberd on the directions with my clutch it said something about a 750mi break in and then adjust it at 1,750 and every 10,000 after that. I thought our clutches were hydrolic and no adjustments were needed. Or is that only with the stocker? I bought the SBC stage II.
as for the safe boost levels.. it will depend on your specific car.. adjust the boost to where its at a safe AFR at WOT across the band..
Just a heads up I had a couple dealers tell me they could reflash it only find out once I got there that they had no idea what they were doing. Ask them to do a SKIM rekey on it and you should be good to go. To get rid of the PTB with the AGP(for the most part) you need to do whats called the bleeder mod. Pretty much it doesn't allow the solenoid to drain too much pressure from behind the WGA and you don't have to drive like a granny for 500 miles while the ECU learns the WGA. One last word of advice before you install the AGP make sure that vac line fitting is tight mine had a huge boost leak on it which makes it a pain for the ECU to properly learn it.
yikes people...... bleeder mod? so not safe and such a bootleg way of going about things. i don't care what agp says. to the op.....s1 is not what determines how high you can boost. your turbo and your fuel do. once you go above about 16 psi you have the potential to be running lean (yes i've sen cars running 16psi running 12.5 a/fs). you NEED a wideband if you're going to mess with boost levels. the stock boost gauge is perfectly fine unless yours took a crap. when they work they work, they're not "off" from the factory. you don't need any kind of fuel controller because all that can do is pull fuel, which on the stock system you're not going to need to do if you increase boost. if anything, you need a pump and injectors first, then get some sort of controller. you don't need a clutch with mods like this. the stock clutch can handle s3 for semi-long periods of time, you're going to be no where near those levels. don't waste the money on it now, wait until it starts going. solid mm mounts, lca bushings, and some suspension work is how you need to focus on putting power to the ground.
no all turbos are the same. your turbo is capable of going to 22psi, but it's not efficient at that level. i can pretty much guarantee that if you lower boost you will actually make more power.
I have heard of the bleeder mod. What is it, and dose it hurt anything? How do you go about setting it up? What excatly is PTB? Will I know it when it happens? On the directions for the WGA it said something about running a boost controller, and then said how to set it up without a boost controller. Is a boost controller a good idea at this point, or just a waste of money? I know it said it was harder to set the boost without the controller.
do a quick simple search on PTB. all the information you need will be in front of your eyes. with an adjustable wastegate, you really don't need a controller, since its adjustable......... but you can waste money on a boost controller if you want just makes it a fraction easier.. but don't adjust a thing until you got a wideband. and even a wideband wont always suffice, i would get one with a data logging feature. EDIT: ill be putting my car on a dyno (pre-WGA) to see what AFRs i am hitting right now, and then installing my WGA, adjusting it +2psi and throwing it on the dyno again to see the AFR difference since i don't have a wideband yet. a guy i know in nashville, is running 21psi using a AGP WGA, and is running like 13.5-14:1 AFRs according to his dyno, but since he hasn't had any 'issues' yet and is making more power, he is leaving it that way. very dumb idea.
