JMatt, Just curious, you have stated that you are going to run a 275 shot of NO2 and I am curious on how things are going to hold together and what your times are? If you can do it successfully, I would love to see the numbers. My hats off to you for being so daring. Thank you.
Like many, I started with a 75HP shot. That lasted about one test drive. So I tried a 100 shot at the track. That lasted a couple runs, so I ran a 125 shot. No problems. I use an RPM window switch to control the on/off points, so I also got more agressive over time with the "on" RPM point. I then did some tuning by logging my wideband AFR gauge, and making adjustments with the Predator. I also spend two days, about a month apart, on the dyno. The end result was a 175HP shot, that yielded a number of runs in the 11's before the season ran out. Best run was the 11.750. Nitrous/fuel solenoids are either on or off. There is no throttling of the solenoid. (A guy in the U.K. has throttleable solenoids he calls "pulsoids" but they're unbelievably expensive, and virtually unheard of in the U.S.). The important factor with nitrous, is how much additional nitrous and fuel is getting into each cylinder during each intake stroke, as the additional fuel, along with the higher ratio of oxygen in N2O compared to atmospheric air to act as the catalyst, is what makes power. (plus things like the splitting of the N2O molecule as cylinder temps increase, causing an increase in cylinder pressure, the intercooling effect of the nitrous, etc. - but the bottom line is how much fuel and N2O per intake stroke). So, we have a fixed amount of nitrous flowing through the solenoid, but we're shoving it into an engine that's spinning faster and faster. At 3,000 RPM, you get twice as much nitrous into the cylinder during each intake stroke as you do at 6,000 rpm. Same flow at 6,00 rpm as 3,000 rpm - half the fill time. So what we call a "175 HP shot" at 3,000 rpm, is really only half that at 6,000 rpm. so in theory, you could run a "350 HP shot" at 6,000 rpm as easily as you could run a 175 shot at 3,000 rpm. (None of it's quite that simple, but that should at least explain the theory.) What I've done this year is actually lower the cylinder pressures up to 3500 rpm by running a 100 shot. At which point the 100 shot turns off, and the 175 shot turns on. Then, at about 5,500 the 100 shot kicks back on, and the 175 shot keeps going, for a total of 275 shot. The relative cylinder pressures of a 275 shot at 5500 rpm are equal to the cylinder pressures at 3500 rpm with a 175 shot. (it's actually even safer than that due to things like head flow, cam profile, volumetric efficiency, etc.) I probably already have 50 runs at the 175 shot, activating at 3,000 rpm. So this year, I can actually run more nitrous, without exceeding cylinder pressures safely used throughout last season. (oh - and I have the parts for a forged bottom end 392 and a brand new block for if/when the whole thing blows up. Regardless of theory - I wouldn't recommend following my lead)
LOL. Notice Der-doofus is banned. He was just trying to mock/bait me. Joke's on him I guess. Car is still together, no maintenance issues. Plan to take it to street legal night next week with a 300 shot. :whistle:
lmao Yea, that is the idea. Funny thing is, someone else in that Cult has gone fishing for 1bad4dr. lol I'm not hungry, so the bait will go bad. lmao
Why did this tool get banned??Him and i had words awhile back when he was new.I really wanted to kick his ass but at the same time didnt want to scare him off...
nope 2 nozzles and a progressive controler. I am going to be doing that same thing with a stand alone fuel cell
whaaaat???? i thought he was working with (can't remember the name of the company) to do a better, stronger, able to leap tall buildings kind of tranny???????
