So I finally got my Innovate hooked up to the Dashdaq and my A/F ratings cycle from about 7.5 to 10.75. It starts low then goes up then cycles back down and repeats. Takes about 6 seconds for it to go from the low end up to high end and back to low end again. What can cause this? Any ideas?
You did not get a good calibration on the wideband. The only way to recalibrate is to remove the wideband sensor and let it sit over night (8 hours). Then replace the sensor and recalibrate using the instructions.
When I had it on the dyno right after heads/cam install I also had some rollercoaster readings on A/F. Coincidental?
Probably. When the A/F reads low (7.4), then there is a calibration issue. Now, the Innovate will always give an irratic reading (at least mine does), but mine bounces from 13.8 - 14.8 when out of boost. Once I get into boost, the WB will firm up and give me my acturate A/F line. Hope this helps.
What Ron said. A/F that rich is more than likely due to calibration. When you car is in closed loop mode (like idling or cruising around -- not WOT) you should be seeing the a/f bouncing back and forth between ~14.3 and ~15.3 (happens to be the range if your narrowband sensors which are used to adjust the A/F towards 14.7 in closed loop operation). You should see it climb and fall repeatedly between these two. (On my car it appears to take roughly under a second for a cycle). In open loop (WOT) mode the A/F should be more steady and basically hold within 0.1 of some number. Depends on how much additional fuel is specified in the PE table and what rpm range you're in. There are other factors but that's the main one. If your sensor calibration is off then your readings will be shifted up or down. (Note: Ron's A/F numbers may not be a good example for you since 1bad4dr is super charged).
Oh yea... We would all be thrilled with a report on the DashDaq with the wideband plugged into it. How do you like the DashDaq? What's the display like? Where did you mount it? How is the logging? How is the PC client? How is it for graphing/analysing logs on the PC? You get the picture <-- don't forget the pictures! :thanks:
Heh, that last post got me thinking.... Is there a configuration on the DashDaq for the wideband input? and is there only one output on the Innovate? You want the 0v - 5v output from the Innovate and you want the DashDaq to know it's a 0v -5v input and maybe additional config? I saw that the DashDaq supports the Innovate wideband and others so it may just be a matter of identifying the input to the DashDaq? Just a thought.
thought I'd include an outside shot with my &%$!*$&in inspection sticker :sick: I have the boring display up, it has alot of skins and is customizable to no end. It's not that much bigger than a dashawk and doesn't block my view. The logging feature is easy, but it doesn't come with any software. It logs in an microsoft excel format, so if you are computer savy, you can work with that. For long logs you would need office 07 version of excel, the previous versions have a small limit on cells. Edge analysis's data pro is allied with dashdaq, so that would be best for computer noobs like myself. The best thing about dashdaq is their customer support. They have fielded more stupid questions from me than you guys here on the board have.:ilovesrtc:
There is a configuration for a ground offset, but that's not applicable here. I don't know of any other adjustments. That doesn't mean there isn't though! There is a headphone plug off the innovate as well. I guess that can be hooked up to a stand alone gauge? I won't pretend to know what that stuff is for. Mine is hooked up with drewtechs expansion cable. It was a mess of colored wires that the installer figured out with dashdaq folks on the phone.
There should have been a loop plug (cap)that fits into the headphone plug that came with the kit. Did you install the loop plug (cap)? That could be the issue as well. You can always go to innovates forum. Much information there as well. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/forums/index.php
those are the only two extra plugs that I can put my hands on. I think those are part of the dashdaq expansion cable though. I'll look around on other forum. thanks!
Did you get the Innovate LC-1 without the display gauge? (I suppose I could go look but) That should have outs for a display gauge, 0v-5v analog, and I think maybe some sort of serial out. If your installer spoke with Innovate or DashDaq I'd think it's probably hooked up and configured correctly. This has got to be the most common setup with the DashDaq. The LC-1 is perfect for it. Integrated controller, you can buy it without a display gauge, and you don't need the logging of the LM-1. We're probably back to Ron's guess at calibration. I don't think you have to actually remove the sensor to calibrate do you? should be able to just disconnect the cable or power and let it sit for 8 hours -- that allows any exhaust gas to dissipate and you are left with clean air.
Yup, I just have the sensor and the dashdaq does all the gauge work and logging. I did see that I had a terminator plug that was supposed to be connected, but wasn't. And yup Ron those plugs I posted the pic were from the lc1 and not from the dashdaq extension cable so thanks! I'll read how to reset and hopefully that will get it. I did take it for a quick run after plugging in the terminator cable and it cycles through the ups and downs very fast now.
YES you do. Remember my FIRST motor episode? lol Before we realized that the WB was NOT calibrated, we tried to calibrate on the fly. There was a section in the CD Manual that stated how to calibrate on the fly (I believe Innovate has removed that now. lol). Because it didn't work (A/F stayed at 7.4) me and my former friend thought that the Spilit Second lost the tune. yea, retuned. Two days later put in a different WB and discovered the A/F at 16. 8... Reretuned. lol BOOM! Talked with Innovate Exec and discovered that the ONLY way to recalibrate is to free air the sensor for not less than 8 hours.
Yes, and the second motor (may they both rest in peace). Ok, I believe you'll need a 1" open end (or channel locks) to remove the sensor. Then you can just let it hang by the cable overnight right? They probably used anti-seize when installing it. Be very careful not to get anti-seize on the sensor element tip.
