Just check these pics out. I had about 1/8" of metal GONE from my clutch release fork compared to the stock unit. Check out the new unit and notice its grooves on both sides showing the slight change of height in metal. Now look at the old unit and notice there isn't any! Due to my shitty photogenic skills, you can't really tell the amount off of the last picture, but I can guarantee you there was a SIGNIFICANT amount of metal gone. On top of that, when I removed the clutch fork above, the pivot ball fell out. Yes, it fell right out! It was no longer "pressed" per se into the bellhousing. Lastly my throw-out bearing had a tab broken, which had it riding on the clutch fork unevenly, which created deep grooving in the throw-out bearing itself. You can see the deep groove around it in this picture: Basically it was hitting the diaphragm fingers of the clutch unevenly which probably affected disengagement and caused some of my grinding issues. A transmission builder of 30+ years checked over my transmission and gave it his seal of approval. I brought up the pivot ball issue and he said at every clutch change, the WHITE PART ONLY (the ball itself) should also be replaced. He said you can take a flat-headed screwdriver, pop it off, and install a new one. I had to get a new unit hammered in, though, because my entire pivot ball base fell out of the casing, rofl. I also STRONGLY recommend changing the clutch release fork any time you do a clutch install. You can tell by my pictures the throw-out bearing caused SIGNIFICANT ware to the fork itself. Install of both are very easy. Put the throw-out bearing inside the "slits" on the fork and then place both over the input shaft and press the left side down on the pivot ball until it snaps into place. Then use your finger to gently move the fork where the slave cylinder engages it on the right hand side and see how smoothly it goes up and down the shaft (no jokes, guys). Also, use some bearing grease or molly lube for all "rubbing" contacts - input shaft where the throw-out bearing rides, the pivot ball, where the slave cylinder piston meets the clutch release fork and where the throw-out bearing sits IN the fork itself. A very minimal amount of lube is all that's necessary. Do not cake it on and risk getting it on your clutch friction disks.
Thank you for the information and sharing pictures. I will be doing this hopefully soon to my wife's SRT-4. Changing the clutch fork, tob, pivot.
Trans is back in and I took the new clutch, fork and essentials for a test drive and the shifting is 10x better with a new clutch-release fork.
How many miles? I changed mine at 100K and it looked the same but mine had rub marks from the pressure plate. I pu a pwerks stage 3 transmission, got a new tob fork cryoed, new tob, centerforce dual friction clutch, and solid shifter bushings. With the mopar short shifter it feels so amazing and I wouldn't change a thing. I recommend the tob fork being replaced too. Here are a few pics
You ready for this? My car only has about 36k miles on the body and transmission! I shift well, too. No hard launches on the street, no gung-ho teenage ricer shit - just regular driving with an occasional get-on-it routine. I also had mine cryogenic treated, but locally. Got my fork from S&P for like $127, and had it locally treated for $10. I also had my SBC cryogenic treated right from SB. It's a $40 option but you have to call them and talk to Andy or Pete for specifics. My friend at a Dodge/Chrysler dealership in my neck of the woods took a look at the fork and is going to talk to the head service guy down there and request it be a mandatory change, like the TOB, with clutch changes THEY have coming through the door, along with being a focus of problem solving when they come to disengagement and/or grinding issues. Man that tranny of yours is so nice and clean. I would have a hard time even putting it in.
i was going to do this when i did my engine swap, but when i looked atmy fork there wasnt anything wrong still looked brand new so i kept it.. still going strong
A lot probably has to do with the kind of traffic you're driving in. If you have a lot of stop and go, and you're constantly disengaging the clutch, it will ware quicker (obviously). Lots of freeway driving and I can only assume your fork would still look new. Who knows. Hopefully some cryogenics will prevent excessive ware down the road, because I do a lot of stop and go driving.
mine needs to be replaced, my buddy just did his today...we're both having the same problem. he said he's 10x better aswell, as soon as I get the $$$, i'm swappin it out...60k on mine, he had 36k on his...
