With the Knock Link you can filter out engine noise and observe "True Knock". You rev the engine with no load and adjust out the engine noise. Then your able to go out and tune for true knock. It's really nice on boosted cars. The Bosch knock sensors on the DCX are the best out there. It's the PCM programming that make them annoying.
I thought the knock sensors were like Nissan parts. It was the company that Chrysler had a working relationship with. I thought it was Nissan. I put new kr sensors on my 426 motor and seem to remember them being some kind Nissan or something part. How about putting a diode in line that will block all voltage until it gets over the diode at like .5v or 1.5v? Edit: Maybe it was Mitsubishi. C.
Ahhh, Ok. Based on the assumption that you don't have knock at free reving, you calibrate the Knock Link sensitivity that way. So is it true that any real knock would add to that noise or could it be masked by it? Let's say Nathan is correct that it's his valve springs producing the false knock. He said he's getting around 13* of knock retard so I'm thinking we can loosely correlate that with the amount of noise. I guess we figure the valve springs would make the same amount of noise free reving as they do under load? Then the question is if Nathan gets real knock (of the severity that might result in 10* of knock retard) will the sensor "hear" that? or would it be masked by the 13* knock retard worth of noise coming from the valve springs?
I think my kr is coming from the big stroke the motor has and the relatively short pistons slapping the cylinder walls. Nathan has a similarly stroked motor. Could be valve noise though. I can put a set of stock heads on my car and see if the kr is still there. Might be worth the experiment. C.
Jeff.......Can you explain a bit more? I knew about short and long term fuel curves, I did not know it applied to the timing as well.
Yep the KR timing memory and the fuel adaptive memory works about the same way, the timing retard is held in short term memory cells until shut down then if it meets the adaptive logic it will be stored in long term memory. I don't know why Chrysler designed the system this way it's just the way it is so theroredically if you use cheap gas consistantly, live in hot humid conditions you'll never make full rated power due to the adaptives. BTW there are about 5 adaptive areas in memory for various things. (I don't have the list in front of me right now)
Does "shut down" mean key off? That's what you'd want to happen no matter what right? Unless you did something bizarre like key off in WOT mode. Sounds like that's a fail safe sort of thing so that if the car needs KR in closed loop you'd want it there at startup?
Man I don't even know where to start. I had heavy KR from the day I got the dashawk and was able to log it. First tried 110 rave gas still there, then rubber washers between the knock sensors and the block. The PCM back and forth to B&G to add fuel cause I thought it was too lean and desensitized KS 50% and 100 octane gas more knock mostly KS #1...3-4 volts and between 5-9 degrees retard. PCM back to B&G comes back nice A/F 12.2-12.5 timing 21-25 degrees and still knock. All year this went on and on and I said Fuck It sent it back to B&G and said diable KR after that I always mixed 100 Octane unleaded and Sunoco 94 for track days and probably had 30+ runs down the track with no problems and 1 day on the way home from the track I got a check engine light .. misfire cylinder 1. and it idled a little rough Next day pulled the plugs and the gaps were closed but still had 200 compression in the cylinder so I put 2 new plugs in and it ran fine. I drove it for about a week in denial and then we pulled the engine and found this [/img] And maybe that was the lesser on 2 evils cause if that would not have happened look what was about to drop in the cylinder
I was going to bring up this point as well. A 1.51 rod length to stroke ratio isn't the best especially with these new Gen Hemi's.
I have to replace the passenger side header gasket on my car and I have to pull the passenger side head off anyway to do that. I have a set of stock heads that have yet to be transported to Slicer. Don't tell him I am going to use his (that I am selling him) stock heads briefly in the name of science... We are talking about two sets of head gaskets and a little extra work swapping things around. Might be a good time to get my Mopar heads examined with 30k miles on them. Superior in Anaheim Cali said they have new valves for our heads that work with dual spring valve springs. I may look into doing that if I am going to go ahead with this endeavor. It is sounding more and more worthwhile with each point I am making to myself in this response....:dumb: C.
I installed a Water Methanol kit on my car a few weeks ago (and became a distributor for the company) from Labonte Motorsports. I made a mix of 50% Methanol and 50% Distilled water.. The Methanol is I believe 116 Octane and the atomized water spray cools your intake charge...a install done by big diesels and Turbo cars to help keep detonation from happening. With the Water Meth injection going I still saw the same KR, with 101 Octane I saw the same KR...the same KR I have had for over a year and have had the motor open. Yes I know Josh I have a noisy motor, it is what it is. It also run in the 11s N/A so yeah, go figure. I had a race tune written for me a couple weeks ago with the Knock sensors turned off (only to be used at the track with the Water-Meth injection) but that was the day I broke the rear end so I never got to test it....I will post when I get some results.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MSD-8964&N=700+115&autoview=sku Here is an MSd version that is about $100 cheaper and I can find it, the other one I can't find where to purchase it.