Heres the scoop, took the 06 CSRT8 in for an oil change today and just got a call saying that the rear brake pads are at 10% and the rotors need replaced. This car has 20, 600 on it. The car had the slotted rotors and new pads installed around 3k so thats about 17k on these parts. (I dont have my manual with me) whats the recommended mileage to change brake pads and where is it documented? Ive never heard of needing pads this early especially so bad to grind down the rotors. There was no warning like grinding or scraping or whatever and Im not paying for faulty parts. Besides, these guys see this car every 3k, why didnt they say something earlier.
Rear pads NEVER wear as fast as fronts, they'll last way longer cause like 90% of braking is done by the fronts. Sounds like the dealer is trying to drum up more business to me. I don't think you'll get any mileage rec for brake pad replacement tho since it really depends on how you drive. Ex. Had a 99 Durango 4x4. Wife drove it and after all my lecturing she tended to drive "conservatively" We got 45K out of the FRONTS and that's on a 4800 tank! Service guy said he never saw a Durango go that long without needing front pads. It all depends on how you drive. On the other hand a day of hard track driving and you'll wear through a set like that!! So 20K doesn't seem too bad although I would think the fronts would need to be replaced before the rears.
The pads on our cars are twice as thick in the front then the rear. I had to replace mine at about 17k miles
I looked at my rear pads through the wheels and it looks like they're almost gone. I've got 20K on my car also. I believe the rear pads are wearing alot quicker due to the ESP activating them during hard acceleration. I also read something about the rear brakes where some people found the one pad was fine and the other needed to be replaced. Not sure what that's about.
17k is about right, and the rear pads on our cars wear down much faster than the fronts, I would be surprised if you actually need new rotors yet though, I am on 33k with mine and I take the car to the track and do heavy stop and go driving. I had to replace my rear pads at about 15-17k miles though. Now would be a good time to upgrade to some better pads w/ less dust!
Wow, thanks for the great responses. I didn't get a squeal which is what I would expect. This is good info as I wouldnt have guess 17k is that close to normal. I hope others read this so they can check em out and save themselves some rotors. Heres my thought. When I got the "pads" and rotors changed out with the TSB, they only changed the front pads but all 4 rotors. Either way Im good because I left a message with my service manager and he is going to replace for free. Free i say. I gotta say, Casa Chrysler on the west side has always hooked me up. Kudo's to them.
The pad on the left is from the rear, on the right is from the front. You can see the difference in wear from both pads and also notice the tabs that will indicate your pads are worn and need to be replaced (they squeel quite loud when the pads get that low).
Remember That If The Rear Tires Break Loose The Traction Control Applies The Rear Brakes To Stop The Spin, Unless You Turn It Off.
:thumb2: Nice pix bro! Yea, I totally forgot bout our traction control, I didn't even think bout that, my bad. My Mustang doesn't have trac control and has an Auburn rear so my rear brakes don't wear hardly at all. I'm still tryin to get used to this open dif thing, lol!
Free is great! I'd be really surprised if they replaced rotors without replacing pads last time. 10% on the pads means there is 10% left. These are bonded to the shoes (I don't think they rivet pads any more, do they?) Our rear pads do wear out much sooner than the fronts. Fronts are thicker. It is a bit surprising that the new slotted rotors need replaced. Maybe they said "You need new pads and rotors"? Because I think the recommendation is that the rotors not be turned and should be replaced with pads? not sure about that but it's great that the dealer is taking care of you.
But save that pic, that's a great example!!! :thumb: Guess you "engage" the ESP a little much there huh bro?? Lol!!!
I'll take that back. That's exactly what the TSB says to do. Replace rotors if they show any signs of scoring and then replace pads IF deemed necessary. You probably didn't have much wear on the pads at 3K.
Yea, hear that! Rain sucks big time too. Guess I'm still just used to the locking rear in my mustang and it's taking me time to get used to all this new fangled electronic stuff, lol! Everytime I turn it off something seems to happen where I wish it was on. Funny. I end up leaving it on most of the time now too.
Got my Predator, just waiting on my Airhammer and to get my core charges from my manifold so I can get my exhaust. Then I'll load the predator! even with ESP turned off to the first notch, The Falken FK 452's have a REALLY good grip!
