Courtesy of FreebirdSRT I am posting this in Anything Goes for I feel it pertains to everyone here. From SRT 4,6,8 and 10 plus all models in between. Ron, feel free to make this a sticky for all to use for the Interior LED list and install guide. Autolumination has bulbs for pretty much every make and model. So you can change your car, truck to these lights. You can not believe the difference these make, night and day (pictures at the bottom of this post). I am going to post the most updated list (with autolumination.com newest bulbs) of interior LED bulbs you will need for each LX vehicle. For the 300's, you will need the following bulbs (2) 44mm, 9 LED Festoon bulb (front map lights) (1) 194 SMT tower LED (glove box) (2) 44mm rigid loop, 9 LED Festoon bulb (courtesy lights, bottom of ea. front door) (2) 194 SMT tower LED (rear seat map lights) (1) 194 36 LED Array (trunk light) (2) 194 4-star SMT (rear exterior license plate lights) For the Magnums, you will need the following bulbs. (2) 44mm, 9 LED Festoon bulb (front map lights) (2) 194 SMT tower LED (rear seat map lights) (2) 44mm rigid loop, 9 LED Festoon bulb (rear hatch/lift gate) (1) 194 4-star SMT (rear exterior license plate light) There is no courtesy lights and glove box lights for the Dodge's. But you can order the glove box light and install in your glove box. Then you will need a: (1) 194 SMT tower LED (glove box) For the Chargers, you will need the following bulbs. (2) 44mm, 9 LED Festoon bulb (front map lights) (2) 194 SMT tower LED (rear seat map lights) (1) 44mm rigid loop, 9 LED Festoon bulb (rear trunk light) (1) 194 4-star SMT (rear exterior license plate light) Installing the bulbs. Front Map Lights. 1. From the click on/off end of the clear lens. Use a small jewelry/glasses flat head screw driver. Carefully wedge it into the on/off end of the lens and pry that end of the lens down. It may seem like it will snap, don't worry. The back end of the lens is held in place by 2 notches. Pull down with your fingers and it should pop free. Sometimes it pops free when you are wedged in with the flat head and pulling down. 2. Remove the rectangular metal reflector. I use a pair of pliers, because the metal may be hot. You will be left with the oem bulb and the rear refector, behind the bulb. 3. I use a small hand towel to reach up and remove the oem bulb, it will be very hot. 4. Take your pliers and get a grip on the rear reflector piece, closest to the roof. You will need to pull and twist to get the rear reflector to pop off of its 2 moutning points. At this point. You can throw away both metal reflectors, you will no longer need those. 5. Before installing the 44mm LED bulbs. Go to the socket prongs that hold the bulb in place. When you remove the oem bulb, the prongs tend to un-bend a bit. So take your fingers and lightly re-squeeze them a bit tighter. Then pop in your LED bulb and roll it until all the 9 led lights are aiming down. You can put your hand under the light to help see where it is aiming. 6. Take the clear lens and line it up with the 2 notches in back. Pop those into place. Then pop the click on/off end back up into place. Courtesy Lights (bottom of ea. front Door: 300's only). 1. Pry the lens off and pull it down/out as best you can. It is tight, not alot of extra wire, in the door. The loops on the end of the oem bulbs fit easliy on the folded socket prongs. Makes getting those bulbs off, easy. Just be careful the bulb is very hot. The loops on the end of the LED bulbs are a lot tighter. Making it a little more difficult to get those installed. 2. Leave one of the folded socket prong ends folded. Work the loop end of the LED bulb, at an angle, down the folded end of the socket prong. 3. Un-fold the other socket prong end. But be very careful, the metal is very thin and you can break it if you un-fold and fold it a bunch of times or too quickly. Go slow, this is not a race. 4. You will need to work the loop end of the led bulb down that unfolded end as best you can. Once you think it is snug and tight. Carefully fold the socket prong end back down. 5. I test to make sure the bulb is connected well and making contact by lightly flicking the bulb with my finger. To simulate a door opening and closing and bumps in the road. Once the LED stays on after flicking it a few times. I re-intall the lens. You are done. Rear seat map lights (similar to the front map lights) 1. From the click on/off end of the clear lens. Use a small jewelry/glasses flat head screw driver. Carefully wedge it into the on/off end of the lens and pry that end of the lens down. It may seem like it will snap, don't worry. The other end of the lens has a tab on it and simply pull the lens, after popping it from the on/off end and it will come out. 2. You should now see the oem 194 bulb and a rear reflector. 3. I use the small flat head to pop the 194 bulb out. I have a towel in the other hand to catch the hot 194 bilb. 4. Do not remove the rear reflector on the rear map lights. 5. Before installing the 194 tower SMT bulbs. Go to the socket prongs that hold the bulb in place. When you remove the oem 194 bulb, the prongs tend to un-bend a bit. So take your fingers and lightly re-squeeze them a bit tighter. 6. Once the new 194 LED is installed. Flick it a few times to make sure it stay on. If it doesn't. Pull the led bulb out and re-squeeze the socket prongs. Once the light stays on. Re-install the clear lens. 7. Take the end of the lens with the wedge on it and insert that into place. Then push in the on/off click end and you are done. Trunks/Hatch door lights 1. 300 Remove the clear lens. Pop out the 921 bulb. It will be hot, use a small hand towel. Install the 194 end of the 36 LED Array. The Array will then hang down, by the wires. When you install the clear lens back on. Lay the LED Array on the lens (lights aiming towards the trunk floor) before popping it back on. 2. Magnum Remove the large clear lens. Pop out both oem festoon bulbs, bulbs are hot. Gently re-squeeze the socket prongs together. Install the 44mm LED fetoon bulbs. Rotate them until the 9 LEDs of each festoon are aiming out the direction of the clear lens. Pop the clear lens back in. 3. Charger Similar to the courtesy lights on the 300 doors. Remove the oem festoon bulb with a towel, bulb is hot. Slide one end of the LED festoon bulb down the folded socket prong. Gently unfold the other folded socket prong and work the other end of the LED festoon bulb down. Once it is snug in place and illuminated. Flick it a few times to make sure it is snug. Fold down the unfolded end of the socket prong. Rear exterior license plate lights. (2) for the 300's (1) for the Magnum and Chargers. 1. Use a short handle phillips screw driver to remove the license plate housing screws. 2. Pull the entire lens down and out. Twist the 194 light socket loose, out of the back of the clear lens. 3. Pull out the 194 oem bulb. Insert the 194 4-star SMT bulb into the 194 socket. Push it in as far as it will go. 4. Go turn on your parking lights to test and make sure the license plate light illuminates. If it doesn't. You may have the 194 in backwards (reverse polarity). Pull the Bulb out rotate it in your hand. Then reinstall the 194. It should light up. OEM bulb on the L and LED bulb on the R. Both with the bright white LED bulbs in.
Ok. I did this about 9 months ago. My map lights are now flickering (and dimmer when they are on solid). I looked and some of the leds are out. Maybe 4 or 5. It's time to replace them. I'm pretty sure I got the 44mm 9 LED Festoon bulbs last time. When I look at the bulb you can see 10 leds in there. Is one just a dummy or just comes on the board as a spare and is not wired? First of all, 9 months? Did I just get a couple of bad ones or do these only last about a year. One thing (with the Magnums anyway) is that the map lights stay barely lit all the time). It appears that 2 of the 9 leds are dimly lit. I guess there is low power running to the lights all the time so the lenses are barely lit for convenience. Could this be the cause of the led bulbs failing so soon? Is this something that has to be in the bulb electronics? Originally the bulbs could have been a bit brighter for my liking so I'm thinking of replacing with a different kind this time. I removed the bottom heat shield/reflectors last time and left the back reflectors in there. I know that they don't do anything with the front facing leds so I could remove them this time if needed. The original led bulb looks to be 10mm in diameter and it looks like there would be another 10mm of room on either side inside the clips. I'm thinking of these from Autolumination. Look to be about 30mm wide and I think they're supposed to be brighter. They're listed as: *new* 9 LED 2 HIGH FLUX *new* Outfitted with the latest Super High-Flux Leds 9 Leds [media]http://superlumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/44mm_hp_w_wm.jpg[/media] What is this "High-Flux" Leds? Is this some tech breakthrough and they're going to be way brighter than the ones I got last time? Last time is was these (except mine look like they got 10 leds in them). [media]http://superlumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/39_9_sw.jpg[/media] If so, what about these? 44mm Superstars. These would have the same form factor (except the corners). They only have 2 (large?) leds but I assume they're the new high flux ones... these are billed as: The Widest, Brightest and Best Festoon Leds Ever Made! Outfitted with the latest Super High-Flux Leds Designed especially for applications requiring a large uniform field of bright light. 10mm wide x 44mm overall length [media]http://superlumination.com/images/auto_bulbs/44_2ww_mark.jpg[/media] Any advice here?
...time for a 2 year bump... Dunno the answer to everything here BUT, a real LED, an actual Light Emitting Diode should last forever. I haven't seen one of these "bulbs" in person so can't say if its a real LED or something they're just calling an LED. If its a real LED, you're either getting a low voltage situation where the thing isn't getting biased correctly... or your getting an overvoltage where the thing blew like a fuse. You might wanna get a voltmeter on the case...literally... figuratively... and see what your sockets are reading.
