I know that many of you have seen this elsewhere, but its probably the only half-decent write up that I've ever done. So here it is to kick off the Connection. A few weeks ago we installed my Tomahawk cam without removing the heads. I have to thank John (sdcarguy) and Ralph (MOL) for their expertise and them giving up an entire Saturday to help me do this. There were a few parts of the installation that I did not find good references for on the forums so I researched ahead of time with PMs. Many thanks to Cam and Erik (Hemi31) for their patience with me. First off here is a list of supplies that you’ll need: 1) new oil and filter 2) antifreeze and distilled water 3) windshield washer fluid if you have a 300 with headlight squirters 4) motor assembly lube (can use motor oil too) 5) magnets for holding the lifters back (we used Craftsman screw starters which were perfect, but pricey at $6 a piece x 16) 6) new crankshaft bolt 7) new cam bolt (mine wasn’t in so we re-used the old without problems so far) Installtion: Disconnect battery in trunk, no NOT close trunk lid fully. 1) remove both belly pans 2) remove oil filter and drain oil 3) remove front fascia 4) remove AC condenser from radiator and bungee to hard bumper 5) remove radiator core support and radiator – I know some have suspended the radiator, but its only an additional 4 bolts and 1 hose clamp to remove and we appreciated the extra space ...forgot to put in "remove belt" here 6) remove AC condenser – lay to side 7) remove power steering pump – lay to side 8) remove alternator – can be laid on cradle, but we just pulled it out 9) remove spark coils 10) remove valve covers, the bottom rear stud on the passenger side is a PAIN in the ARSE, here is how we got it. 11) remove rocker arms by progressively loosening each bolt (1st 1 turn, 2nd one turn, 3rd one turn, 4th one turn – repeat until they’re out – don’t take any single bolt all the way out or you can bend our hollow rocker arms) 12) remove push rods and KEEP ORGANIZED for re-installion 13) remove front 5 oil pan bolts 14) remove crank pulley, then put crank bolt back in so you can later spin the crank - I know the timing cover is off in the pic, but its the only one I had of the pulley off. 15) remove timing cover, there are a few bolts hidden behind pulleys – don’t let the bolts fall out of the timing cover as some are longer than others 16) put magnets on lifters 17) spin crank and cam (at least twice all the way around to push lifters out) until they line up at TDC as shown - crank keyway at Chrylser symbol and arrow on cam timing wheel straight up ...forgot to add that you need to pin back the timing chain tensioner (left side of chain under the cam wheel) 18) remove cam bolt, timing wheel, and lower timing chain to the side 19) remove cam thrust plate – BE VERY CAREFUL NOT DROP ANY OF THESE BOLTS IN TO THE OIL PAN. 20) remove old cam, clean (brake cleen or solvent), lube and install new cam (if installing straight up, put new one in the same way the old one was positioned) - Sorry we were moving fast so the block didn't sit open very long, so no pics. 21) put everything back together opposite of all these steps, don't forget to add oil, filter, antifreeze and purge the block while adding the coolant.
