that is almost twice as many miles as i got on GY F1's so you did well.... I lasted about 8K.. but the outer edges on the fronts were going fast... new tires & 4 wheel alignment resolved my issues.... I run my pressures at 32 & 33 lbs cold front/rear respectively.. for normal day to day driving.. On the track I use a temp gun to look at the tire temps in 3 places, outer, mid and inner.. depending upon the readings I adjust accordingly.. also look at the tire wear marks on the edges of the tire.. these are often small triangles on the side of the tire very near where the tread meets the side wall. This tells you how far you are pushing the tires, if you are rolling down over the mark you need to adjust sometime pressure, alignments, end links etc.. At the tack I usually can go to the on site tire tech and get their opinion as well to confirm the proper course of action.. Feel the tire surface area as well there should not be any sharp edges, dips or waves.. I think Nevan put some thing out on this a while ago.. chekc the On the Track section..
If you've already pretty much ruined them due to bad alignment (like if they're almost bald on the outside) then you could pump them up to squeeze a few more miles out of them. If you run them at something like 40 or 45 (I think max pressure on my RS-As is 50 or 55 lbs) they're going to run more on the center portion of the tread. Probably not worth it for what you'd save. Less traction so less safe, and the ride would be really harsh. I wouldn't recommend it.
Haha, your "nuke" is 9 months late Dave, he posted that LAST July (still made for a good read tho!). I know there was a TSB for the factory alignment being off and I wonder if this is why everyone rips on the F1s wearing so bad ... it's not the tire, it's the factory alignment specs that sucked. I have 7K on F1s and they look great (and I do twisty driving every chance I get!). I had my alignment done when I swapped to the Mopar coilover kit at 1500 miles so I'm wondering if that's it. Lol, what else you got in there ... never mind, I don't want to know, lmao!!
Yuk... I have been runnign 38 PSi and it was nice and only slightly hard. Due to some other memebers saying they run 40 (for you Bud), I thought I would give it a try. Crap...it feels almost like solid rubber tires, as a side note... they are a lot easier to "turn over". It is easy to get smal chirps on just leaving the line under slight throttle. So I do not think that 40 is good for twisty roads. Who else is running 40+? What do you think? ..
I ran mine at 36. I ran them at 32 for the first 5k or so. I tinkered a bunch after that and found 36 felt right as far as performance went.
I thought on an earlier thread you said you were running 40. Damn that is hard. I ran 36 too, it seems best.
KWv2's with a slight rake. With the 245/45-20 and 295/40-20 RSA's it was more noticeable. With the 255/45-20 and 275/40-20 NT-05's it's more level now. Set up more for straight line. 36 lbs. seems to be right.
I have the Vreds on all 4 corners and run 34lbs psi. Run 275s on the front and 315s on the back. Rear rims are widened to 10.5". I could not get any traction with the 245 RSAs, and the 315s work a lot better.
Go with toyo proxy4's Best tire I have every had 20,000 hard miles many track days and burn outs like crazy. I got Vreds on friday hit the track 4 runs here is what they look like with 300 miles on them. They are garbage tires!!! Here are pics of one day racing on the track! SO if you drive hard don't get these tires! Right side: Side wall: Left Side:
WhenI first got the car, I was running 32 cold. Went to the SRT Experience program in June and noticed they had the tires at 47 cold, and it was raining like hell. Took mine up to 36. Later, talked with a long time mechanic who said that he had his customers with the RSAs run at 40 and was getting good tire life. So..I now run 39 cold, moves up to 40-41 warm on most days. Car holds the twists and curve great as long as it is dry. Add water, just don't try to accelerate at all with the open rear. Another benifit of the higher pressure, the car seems to handle pot hole hits better (Pa. the home of all pot holes and crappy raoadways)
I keep it under 40psi(even though mine say 44 max)... usually about 35psi in front and a little less in the back for a little more grip. I ran with what the tires called for at first, and I was spinning my tires all the time. But I'm still running F-1's
You are probably the only person who doesn't like these tires. Judging by your pictures, there wasn't enough psi in your tires to keep the sidewall from rolling under.....I know a lot of guys talk about keeping the pressure on the lower side for better traction, but on the opposite end of the spectrum, lower pressures allow the sidewall to buckle. I guess it's just a fine line.... And I hope anyone who has nitrogen in their tires got it for free....My tires have over 78% nitrogen...for free.
Very old thread but hey it's stickied.... hope all teh original posters from 2009 on back still have their cars. Ok so to stay on topic... the front goodyears on my 11k mile ride are bald on the inside edge. I took the car into the stealership at 9k for this and they said the alignment was off some and they corrected it. Not sure what they did actually. So what is wrong in my alignment or setup that would cause inner wear on the front tires? The stealership said that spirited driving would do it... I told them I disagreed and that the outer edges would wear first if I was driving spirited. I do take maybe 1 or 2 corners a day a lil fast but I do not go driving a twisty for several miles a day.
They're wrong. I assume it was worn evenly? usually if they were towed out there would be "cupping". If it is worn evenly/smoothly then camber (tires are tilted in at the top). Don't know about the Challengers but the LX SRT8s are very difficult to get into proper alignment. Everything is on the edge of adjustability with the hardware on the car to get it into specs. I haven't seen a dealer yet that has top of the line alignment equipment and often they are using less than average/really old equipment (it just doesn't take much to get that Sebring "close enough"...). Find a speciality shop that has the better Hunter equipment, spend a couple of hundred and get it aligned properly. They will ask you how you drive, what kind of driving you usually do, what kind if driving you would like it set up for (even if you don't do it), if you usually have a passenger, what's usually in the trunk and how much you weigh. wonder if the specs are the same for the LX and Challengers? Highly unlikely. They did give you a print out like this right?
Worn evenly but on inside edge. I've met other folks with a 2010 SRT8 Challengers that have 20-25k miles and their front tires look normal. On the last visit, the dealership had just acquired a new alignment rack but I dunno what type it is. I got no printout of the alignment... just that they said they did it. They did ask me how I drove the car and I told them I drive it in no way that would cause front tires to go bald at 9k miles... to me it's something that should be covered by warranty. I'm not a fan of the goodyears but I'd fully expect needing to replace the rears from doing burnouts way before ever replacing the fronts. I'll get into the dealership again this week.
It was out of alignment. If you've been getting it serviced there they maybe should have caught it at the 3K and definitely at 9K. You probably should initiate contact with Chrysler regional/district/whatever service center. Tires should have lasted about 18K? even with "spirited" driving. And they should have worn out evenly or at least symmetrically.
My Goodyear F1s lasted at most 11k before they got a bit smooth for comfort. They are nice and sticky when new, but they wear down really fast because they're so soft compared with the truck tires I have now, which don't stick as well in turns, and make my Charger feel more like a truck, but I'm on a budget so that's that. With my F1s, I also had more wear on the inner edges. When I took the Charger out to Willow Springs, a track official / driving instructor suggested I ask for a slight negative camber next time I got new tires, that this would even out the wear given I was prone to sharp turns and actually having fun in my Charger instead of just driving in a straight line. The sales manager at my Big O Tire down the street drives a 300 SRT, so he knows how I like my tires set up, and I usually get a discount on labor.
