HOW-TO: Get rid of the Stock BOV flutter

**master_1011** · 04-21-2008, 07:19 AM

This is how to relieve the common "Horse Laugh" sound.
This works perfect for stock surge valve with or w/o the rice plate.
This works perfect for an aftermarket BOV, but YOU need to set up the adjustments on that. If you have it set-up too tight, you will still get the flutter.

****Do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any negative effects from this mod****
****This mod will cause your stock surge valve (with or without blue plate) to leak under vacuum. To avoid this, buy a 16 dollar spring from PTPerformance.****

Ok, here goes........

Firts off, go get some 7/32 inch vacuum line from your local Autozone, Napa, Pepboys, etc. While your there, get a vacuum 'T' (sold in single packs with other vacuum components) and some vacuum caps. The caps can be bought in a set with different sizes. This is your best option.

Now, take your intake off. (it's impossible to reach the turbo nipples with it on)

Remove the pink/blue/black lines from the center solenoid and all tubing associated with them.

There is a green, three-way check valve between the block and the battery. You will leave the line going out the BACK alone. The other two lines will be removed. CAP off the TOP of the valve. (see pic)

There is a nipple on the turbo where the blue line used to go to. You guessed it, CAP it off.

Now, run a new line straight from the TB to the FRONT of the green valve. Make sure you replace the right line on the TB. DO NOT use the line going to the PCV valve.

Now, in the middle of that line, use the 'T' and run a line from there to the BOV. (it should work with an aftermarket BOV as well as the stocker...which ever you have.)

If you have an aftermarket BOV, you need to make sure it's adjusted right to avoid flutter..but thats up to you.

Now, put your intake back on. There are two nipples on the intake. One goes to the valve cover, the other used to goto the TB. CAP that nipple.

Voila. Done. MAKE SURE YOU ZIP-TIE ALL YOUR LINES!!! That is #1 to avoid un-neccessary boost leaks.

All the openings on the solenoid in the middle are now empty and useless, so just leave them alone. You can cap them if you want.

This will NOT throw a CEL. Well,....it shouldn't anyways. Definitely won't with Stage 1,2,3.

If you have any other questions, PM me.

Jeff

StillANeon · 06-06-2008, 04:00 PM

My car sounds like a rattle snake. I might have to do this.

Not to sound like Dave Sealy but why didn't Dodge do it this way to begin with?

**master_1011** · 06-06-2008, 10:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by master_1011

****This mod will cause your stock surge valve (with or without blue plate) to leak under vacuum. To avoid this, buy a 16 dollar spring from PTPerformance.****

StillANeon · 03-31-2009, 07:51 PM

Would it be a better idea to get a thicker T then the brass one supplied with S3? for 7/32nd sized line?

Couldn't I just remove the pink line to the Boomba, and the black line at the bottom of the middle solenoid? And just use that empty area in the T since the small little black line on the solenoid is gone and run a new line from that T to the Boomba? So then it would be coming from that direct vac source. My only concern would be that it is small T and I might need something bigger? Would I have to get rid of the blue line too at the solenoid? Sorry for all this rambling. Just want to get it right the first time.

**master_1011** · 03-31-2009, 11:56 PM

A bigger "T" shouldn't be necessary.

As far as the line routing, you'll just have to play with it. As long as there is a vacuum source to the BOV, and no open ports, then you should be all right.

StillANeon · 04-01-2009, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by master_1011

A bigger "T" shouldn't be necessary.

As far as the line routing, you'll just have to play with it. As long as there is a vacuum source to the BOV, and no open ports, then you should be all right.

I shall mess with it tommorrow... You seem to be running a pretty big "T" with bigger vac line so thats why I was wondering.

Thanks for the response though.

**master_1011** · 04-01-2009, 08:14 PM

I was running 7/32 line...and it was hard as hell to get it on the 'T' I used....so even mine was kinda small.

***1bad4dr*** · 04-01-2009, 08:24 PM

hmmmm PTPerformance???

Trying to remember this guy.

Ok, now I know who PTP is.

STAY AWAY from PTP.

Here's a novel idea, use supporting Vendors who hold a GREAT name and reputation in DCR or RealTune.

StillANeon · 04-01-2009, 08:27 PM

I will put up a ton more pictures tomorrow. But man. Car runs SOOOOO much better now. No more fluttering at all. A very nice long HISSSSSSS.

The only problem I ran into was that I had to run another vacuum T since I have a S3 fuel rail. The assorted box I got of vacuum T's has different sizes of course but on all three ends of the "T" they are the same size. It would be nice for them to have a smaller size on one side and not just the T section.

**master_1011** · 04-01-2009, 11:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1bad4dr

hmmmm PTPerformance???

Trying to remember this guy.

Ok, now I know who PTP is.

STAY AWAY from PTP.

Here's a novel idea, use supporting Vendors who hold a GREAT name and reputation in DCR or RealTune.

Easy, killer.....I wrote this write-up a couple years ago on the other forum, and copied here last year....

But, despite PTP's undoing in recent months, all I recommended was a spring. I don't know who else sells them, even though I would also point out reputable vendors such as DCR or RealTune.

And, for the record, when I had a bunch of PTP stuff under the hood, it all worked as advertised....I'm just sayin'.

If I(or anyone else) find another vendor who sells the springs, I(or you...) will gladly change the OP.

03-31-2009, 11:56 PM	#5
master_1011 The Man. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ventura, CA Posts: 2,684	A bigger "T" shouldn't be necessary. As far as the line routing, you'll just have to play with it. As long as there is a vacuum source to the BOV, and no open ports, then you should be all right. __________________ Currnet vehicle: 2007 Charger SRT-8, Brilliant Black Pearl.....STOCK JEFF X3

04-01-2009, 08:14 PM	#7
master_1011 The Man. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ventura, CA Posts: 2,684	I was running 7/32 line...and it was hard as hell to get it on the 'T' I used....so even mine was kinda small. __________________ Currnet vehicle: 2007 Charger SRT-8, Brilliant Black Pearl.....STOCK JEFF X3

04-01-2009, 08:24 PM	#8
*1bad4dr* Mr. Meany Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: ABQ, NM Posts: 18,345	hmmmm PTPerformance??? Trying to remember this guy. Ok, now I know who PTP is. STAY AWAY from PTP. Here's a novel idea, use supporting Vendors who hold a GREAT name and reputation in DCR or RealTune. __________________ Ron Speed = Money squared..... Did you eat an extra bowl of STUPID this morning?

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04-21-2008, 07:19 AM	#1
master_1011 The Man. Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Ventura, CA Posts: 2,684	HOW-TO: Get rid of the Stock BOV flutter This is how to relieve the common "Horse Laugh" sound. This works perfect for stock surge valve with or w/o the rice plate. This works perfect for an aftermarket BOV, but YOU need to set up the adjustments on that. If you have it set-up too tight, you will still get the flutter. **Do this at your own risk. I will not be held responsible for any negative effects from this mod This mod will cause your stock surge valve (with or without blue plate) to leak under vacuum. To avoid this, buy a 16 dollar spring from PTPerformance.** Ok, here goes........ Firts off, go get some 7/32 inch vacuum line from your local Autozone, Napa, Pepboys, etc. While your there, get a vacuum 'T' (sold in single packs with other vacuum components) and some vacuum caps. The caps can be bought in a set with different sizes. This is your best option. Now, take your intake off. (it's impossible to reach the turbo nipples with it on) Remove the pink/blue/black lines from the center solenoid and all tubing associated with them. There is a green, three-way check valve between the block and the battery. You will leave the line going out the BACK alone. The other two lines will be removed. CAP off the TOP of the valve. (see pic) There is a nipple on the turbo where the blue line used to go to. You guessed it, CAP it off. Now, run a new line straight from the TB to the FRONT of the green valve. Make sure you replace the right line on the TB. DO NOT use the line going to the PCV valve. Now, in the middle of that line, use the 'T' and run a line from there to the BOV. (it should work with an aftermarket BOV as well as the stocker...which ever you have.) If you have an aftermarket BOV, you need to make sure it's adjusted right to avoid flutter..but thats up to you. Now, put your intake back on. There are two nipples on the intake. One goes to the valve cover, the other used to goto the TB. CAP that nipple. Voila. Done. MAKE SURE YOU ZIP-TIE ALL YOUR LINES!!! That is #1 to avoid un-neccessary boost leaks. All the openings on the solenoid in the middle are now empty and useless, so just leave them alone. You can cap them if you want. This will NOT throw a CEL. Well,....it shouldn't anyways. Definitely won't with Stage 1,2,3. If you have any other questions, PM me. Jeff __________________ Currnet vehicle: 2007 Charger SRT-8, Brilliant Black Pearl.....STOCK JEFF X3 Last edited by master_1011; 04-21-2008 at 07:26 AM.

06-06-2008, 04:00 PM	#2
StillANeon Gear Head Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 913	My car sounds like a rattle snake. I might have to do this. Not to sound like Dave Sealy but why didn't Dodge do it this way to begin with?

03-31-2009, 07:51 PM	#4
StillANeon Gear Head Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 913	Would it be a better idea to get a thicker T then the brass one supplied with S3? for 7/32nd sized line? Couldn't I just remove the pink line to the Boomba, and the black line at the bottom of the middle solenoid? And just use that empty area in the T since the small little black line on the solenoid is gone and run a new line from that T to the Boomba? So then it would be coming from that direct vac source. My only concern would be that it is small T and I might need something bigger? Would I have to get rid of the blue line too at the solenoid? Sorry for all this rambling. Just want to get it right the first time.

04-01-2009, 08:27 PM	#9
StillANeon Gear Head Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Kansas Posts: 913	I will put up a ton more pictures tomorrow. But man. Car runs SOOOOO much better now. No more fluttering at all. A very nice long HISSSSSSS. The only problem I ran into was that I had to run another vacuum T since I have a S3 fuel rail. The assorted box I got of vacuum T's has different sizes of course but on all three ends of the "T" they are the same size. It would be nice for them to have a smaller size on one side and not just the T section.